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Discussion Starter #1
i'm gonna get a kent doser and start dripping kalk tomorrow, anyone have any pointers for this? i heard that it can be deadly fast!
 

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RIP Steve Irwin
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use an auto top off or just do not do it. You can not add much at a time.
 

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Sizzlersonthebrain said:
:bigeek::bigeek::bigeek::bigeek::bigeek:

thats ok my other hobby has S&M osts
"Snake and Mongoose" :agree:

for a sec i thought u said ur other hobby was slaves and masters lol jk:lol:
 

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RIP Steve Irwin
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I guess it is a good idea, it helps your top off from lowering your Alk/KH I have a Kalk Reactor I got from Bob a while back but have not had a top off and plan on doing it soon. I highly reccommend to start with a low concentration and stir it more than once a day with a digital timer if possible. Good luck and do not be afraid to start just test frequently till you understand the fluxuations.
 

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I have never dripped, I went strait to dosing pump + timer (better would be Dosing pump + timer + float switch). But, I have read that you should not have more kalk mix than your system could theroretically handle all at once (in case that actually happens by accident). Seems like good advice.

Here is a calculator to figure that out:

http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chem_calc3.html
 

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smeese said:
I guess it is a good idea, it helps your top off from lowering your Alk/KH I have a Kalk Reactor I got from Bob a while back but have not had a top off and plan on doing it soon. I highly reccommend to start with a low concentration and stir it more than once a day with a digital timer if possible. Good luck and do not be afraid to start just test frequently till you understand the fluxuations.

My understanding was that the kalk can cause a lowered alk?
 

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hmmm maybe I am wrong....I always get Kalk and buffer confused.
 

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kalk raises PH, Alk and CA Its usually not used for raising ALK or CA but sustaining it, because it will raise PH the fastest. But with top off rates should be fine, esp over time.
 

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HFG said:
kalk raises PH, Alk and CA Its usually not used for raising ALK or CA but sustaining it, because it will raise PH the fastest. But with top off rates should be fine, esp over time.

Ok, I will have to read the back of the superbuffer again, cause I thought it said that kalk will slowly lower alk, but I must have mis-read. Sometimes I only half read something.:nuts:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
smeese i'm gonna buy a bobo kalk reactor soon too but i'm a little poor after the new tank and all so i'll have to make do with dripping kalk till i can get one! i'm having trouble keeping PH high i have no idea why it like to go to 7.7 and stay there, even though i buffer my top off and test it 3 days later. i'm hoping the kalk will help.
 

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Go to the reef chemistry forums on RC. There's many ways to raise your PH. Limewater being the best as it doesn't continually raise your alk.
 

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I am very fond of Kalkwasser use and really any tank I maintain now and future will incorporate kalkwasser. I will say that I have never used the Kent dripper, but have tried many dripper type methods in the past. If you can't automate Kalkwasser ( safely as to have redundancy in place to prevent overdosing ) then you likely not to use it long. It can be tedious with lots of tinkering with the dripping method and frankly, you probably won't have the patience to keep it up for long.

I personally am not that fond of float switches ( because of the failure rates ) but as long as you incorporate some redundancy features as to not overdose then I don't really have a problem with it. I much prefer time based systems over water level systems. Becuase if something happens to cause the water levels to lower abnormally and not from just water eveoporation then your still insuring that you will not overdose the Kalk. Dosing pumps is my prefered method but still need to add some redundancy features to prevent overdosing.

While I don't know of any recent cases of overdosing, it does happen, Scott Jensen a former TCMAS member who moved away, lost his 75g tank to float switches and Kalkwasser. Bill Bramucci had a failure as well but becuase his system was so large 450g it didn't cause any livestock problems but did overflow the sump and ruin a $300 circulation pump.

I covered this topic pretty thouroughly in the rendancy paper that should be out on the TCMAS website.
 

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Loralie said:
Can doing weekly water changes eliminate the need for dripping Kalk? I am thinking after Josh is gone I am gonna do weekly 10% water changes on the 92.
Depends entirly on how much stony stuff you have (and corline to some degree). If you have a mostly softy tank ... well, duh :)

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I have been using the SP3000. They absoulty need that back pressure valve installed, they seem cheep, the service is worse to none... but they can be had for 90ish retail.

My qustion is, can you add a float valve for further protection, or would the back pressure ruin the pump (thus making a float switch the only option)?
 

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David Grigor said:
While I don't know of any recent cases of overdosing, it does happen, Scott Jensen a former TCMAS member who moved away, lost his 75g tank to float switches and Kalkwasser. Bill Bramucci had a failure as well but becuase his system was so large 450g it didn't cause any livestock problems but did overflow the sump and ruin a $300 circulation pump.
my floats have failed up and down stairs. downstairs the second float has always kicked in and stopped any real problems. however upstairs I was an idiot and only had one float and it failed. Had to be the day that i just filled the reservoir and it dumped in 10 gallons of kalk into my 90. when i woke up to the gurgle my tank was milky white and had a PH of 9.5 . I dumped in some vinegar to get it back down to 8.5 immediately. Only thing that died was a few snails , crabs, shrimp and the xenia.

never trust a float switch unless you are the type of person that cleans them weekly and even then only if you are willing to risk the tank.
 
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