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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i plan on doing a DIY refugium but have no clue of where to start i want it internal so i don't hve to deal with plumbing or drilling. This is what i was thinking an acrilic box deminsions:L=7" W=4" H=5" thats all i know so can anyone give me plans or advice anything is welcome
 

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LifeReef makes awesome siphon overflow boxes and in the year+ that I've used them, I never had to do a thing to them. They don't collect bubbles and I've never had to reprime them. That will get the water out of your tank and into an external box. Another option to think about is mounting the fuge above the tank. Pump the water up to the fuge and let it drain back down to the tank. That way copepods don't need to go through a pump to get back to the display tank.

You can also build a nice fuge for in the display tank by cutting a few pieces of eggcrate, binding them together to form a box with zip ties, fill it full of chaeto, and *poof* instant fuge that gives the pods a safe place to reproduce free from predation.

The options are many. :)
 

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Absolutely you can build something like that. You can buy acrylic at Lowes, they'll even cut it for you. The problem is getting Weld-on as it's usually not available locally. I bought it from someplace off of the internet and I can't remember where. The #16 is the easiest to work with and would work fine for something like that. It doesn't provide quite the strength as #4 does but it's not needed for your project.

Another option is getting glass cut at a local glass store and then just silicone the pieces together.
 

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I'm not sure you get enough bang for your buck to do a small fuge...I had a 10G fuge plumbed into my system with sand, rock and 3 types of macro that I just dumped and turned into a little frag tank instead. Although the macro was growing and it did have tons (and I mean tons) of worms, pods and micro stars I really can't say that I see that it made a real difference on my system (either before I added it or after I removed it). Honestly, I thought the main advantage of mine was the free food (pods etc.) but I can't say that I really saw a big difference in the volume of pods in the display tank with the fuge running either. All in all it just became more of a maintenance issue than it was worth.

Just my .02 cents!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sorry it seems im just posting to post.... but where could i get the acrilic welded and why can't i just silicone it like glass
 

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Ummm... yeah.
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you can use silicone, but weld-on actually melts and/or fuses the acrylic together. I can't see the pic you posted (at work), but if you click the link in my signature, there is an example of my fuge when it was in-sump. It was acrylic sheets and silicone. The sump is glass. I got the acrylic from Home Depot and you should(maybe)be able to find weld-on at an automotive store or Home depot. Just check to make sure it's for acrylic.
 

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Ummm... yeah.
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acrylic WILL flex and potentially pull apart with silicone. Using weld-on GREATLY reduces this risk to near none. That was a main reason for moving my fuge to a 15g and freeing up sump space.
 

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Yes, you can buy live copepods for it. It will end up being very expensive though. I buy pods from saltwaterfish.com when they are on sale and it's $10 per bag. You'd need to add a bag a week to keep a mandarin well fed.
 

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why they say the minimum tank required is a 30 gallon and some people have kept them in less like a 15 Gallon
Let's just say there is a big difference between keeping livestock alive and having healthy livestock flourish;)

I've kept the same one for over 4 years. First she was in a 450 gallon tank and then I had to move her to a 125 for about a year. She did poorly during the time in the 125 and started looking very thin. Even though she ate prepared foods, it was not enough to sustain her health with other competing fish in the tank. Now since she has been in my 300 gallon system since last year, she is doing great again and looks healthy finally. Ultimately I think I proved that my girl did suffer in a smaller tank with less food potential and ultimately it depends on pod population as well as competition;)
 
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