[Geoff]

i hope to have pics and instructions up for the 3 overflows i am building for Nikki's system. i am thinking of adding stockman's to them, but am unsure right now. i have the acrylic cut already will start assembly hopefully today. i still need to route the internal box for the strainers.

i am awfull about doing pics while building something. i hope to add a page to the website for these.

so far i figured i have saved $140. DIYing. the acrylic only cost me $10 so far. plus the extra i have laying around i will be very close to getting all three. the least expensive overflows i have seen were $50!

i love acrylic! and of course Weld-On 16, because i can not cut straight to save my life.

G~

 

[Doug1]

Kewl Geoff, cant wait to see her new tank up and running

 

[Geoff]

me either!

G~

 

[Lostmind]

pics pics pics

 

[Geoff]

Ok, i finally got some pics done on the construction of the overflows. the pics are from Gen 1. this one is going on the 20h. the inner box does not dip as low into the tank. it does not need to because the lip of the tank is so much smaller than the 75. the cut list is for the overflows that will go in the 75. a this time i have not decided which size tubing to use for the drain. i think 3/4 for the 20, but i have not decided if i will go up to 1" for the 75.

cut list: all 1/4" acrylic

Inner box:
Sides 2- 2"X4.25"
Front 1- 5"X4.25"
Back 1- 5"X5"
Bottom 1- 5"X2.5"

Brace between the two boxes
1- 5"X1.5"

Outer box:
Sides 2- 7"X3.25"
Sides 2- 7"X6"
Bottom 1- 6"3.75"

i used Weld-On 16 for all of the glueing.

the slots are 1.75" long and 3/16" wide. there are 3 slots on the short sides and 8 on the long side. i will put better instructions on the web site when i get the chance. i would not be holding your breath if i were you.

G~

this is a pic of all of the cut acrylic for all three overflows.

 

[Geoff]

the inner box with brace.

 

[Geoff]

the outer box.

 

[Geoff]

the completed overflow. this is the Gen.1 version.

 

[Geoff]

the one on the left is the Gen 1. the other two are Gen. 2. you can see how the innerbox is lower than the other one. i had to add a piece of acrylic to lower it, that is why there are 2 small braces to make it stronger. the cut list has it as one single piece of acrylic.

 

[Reefer Addict]

Looks great there Geoff! :beer:

Where do you find your acrylic cement? I need to build a different outer overflow box for my tank and was curious.

I can't wait to see Gen's 3, 4 and 5.

 

[Lostmind]

Nice! I am just about to make one of those for myself...

 

[Buehlz]

Geoff PM me if u are interested in selling one of your Gen 1 or Gen 2's...... PLEASE Looks like u just need to get a torch and polish the ends will look alot better then

 

[chetm2]

just tagging along, looks great

 

[Cookie_Monster]

Hummm, very interesting. I might have to pick up some acrylic sheets at work tommorow. And yes my hd does have acrylic sheeting, not plexi.

 

[Doug1]

Geoff, I know you know but I am going to state the obvious for the benefit of the tagalongs who may be new to the concept.
The slots in the inner box are going to determine how far the tank drains down if the power to the return pump is shut off. The U tubes that siphon water from the inner to the outer box need to be long enough that they are well below the slots. Normally these are built with a divider in the outer box with the siphon end from the inner box well below the dividers top. The drain fitting is on the other side of the divider. The reason for this is so that if the power is disrupted and the return pump stops, the tank will continue to siphon thru till it reaches the bottom of the inner box slots and water can't get in anymore. the space below the slots and the space in the outer box will hold water and since the U tube stays flooded it will resume siphoning when the power comes on. The return pump pumps from the sump refilling the display tank causing the water level to raise and pour thru the slots pushing trapped water thru the U tube, hence its self starting if setup correctly, with no need for the suction from a powerhead venturi to evacuate the air and start the siphon like on the CPR style overflow.
Things to watch for, try to use a U tube the same size as the drain hole, and keep the flowrate high enough that you dont get air bubbles sucked into the siphon, slower than optimum flows will allow the bubbles to accumulate at the high point of the siphon tube, reducing the amount that gets thru, gradually further reducing the flow rate which will cause the level in the display tank to creep up.
IME this is the most common malfunction on these overflows, but if you watch them and set it up right there a good cheap way to sump an undrilled tank.
Oh BTW a folded dish towel over the top will cut down on drain noise and limit algae growth in the tube
Hope this Helps

 

[Geoff]

Great Explaination Doug!

Thanks,

G~