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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, here we go!
After some long planning, timing and decision making the time has come.
As promised, I have already started to get things going this past weekend and will have descriptive details and pictures through my every step.
(As we all know how much everyone here loves pictures!)

Here is a list of what equipment I will be using for my build:
- Tank – 120 gallons RR (dual overflow) measures: (L-W-H) 60”x18”x26”
- Stand – DIY with 6” fan, measures: (L-W-H) 61”x19”x36”
- Canopy – DIY with 2x 6” internal fans
- Sump – 40 Gallon aquarium DIY
- Protein Skimmer: Octopus NW200 with gate valve mod
- 2x 100watt Jager heaters
- Mag 5 return pump
- Auto top off – DIY
- DSB or BB... Haven’t decided yet
(awaiting input to help make up my mind!):freak:
- 3x Koralia 1 power heads (400gph/each)
- Natural Wave (timer for power heads)
- 2 x 400watt metal halides (either 10k or 14k)
- 2x65watt PC (both running actinic-03)
- 2x dual 1watt blue LED moonlights
<O:p</O:p
Critter’s list:
- 50 – 55 Lbs. Live rock (plus the 38 – 40 lbs. That I currently have)
- Various LPS
- Various SPS
- Various Softies
- Various fish
- Clean-up crew (snails, hermits and maybe a few emeralds)
<O:p</O:p
To everyone who will be tagging along, I hope you enjoy!
Ok, let’s get to it!! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Getting started... </O:p
It’s been a long wait for this build to happen. The biggest hold up was figuring out how long our family was going to be living in our current home. Wouldn’t want to build a reef to tear everything down in 9 months! Since we have figured that we are going to remain where we are for the next couple years, things are good to go! Besides, all this gives me is good reason to upgrade in 2 years when we move!
<O:p</O:p
Now that the big obstacle was out of the way, it was time to move on to the “less big” obstacle; my current 120 gallon fresh water tank which would have to be torn down to make room before the new build could start.

Old120.jpg

I had thought of keeping my current 120, drilling it and building some over flows as it is the same dimensions as the tank that I had decided on for this build. I figured why mess around just go for a reef ready unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I put my whole fresh water set-up up for sale and it was sold in 3 days. I figured that it would have taken at least a week or two but, just goes to show you never know!

Here is a picture of the void where the new set-up will go.
TheVoidResized2.JPG
 

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It sounds good to me, but I do have a couple of questions for you.

1) Do you think the Mag 5 is going to produce enough return flow for that size tank? I am curious as I am actually using a Mag 9.5 on my 75 gallon system and it doesn't really seem that strong.

2) Do you know how to make the Koralia power heads run silently? Mine make a lot of noise at start up and for that reason I am not running them on my wavemaker. When I visited Fat Tony he had a piece of airline tubing in front of the impeller on his to keep it from flying forward. I am going to try this during next weeks maintenance and see if it stops the noise so I can turn my wavemaster back on.

Good luck with everything, I will definitely be tagging along on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It sounds good to me, but I do have a couple of questions for you.

1) Do you think the Mag 5 is going to produce enough return flow for that size tank? I am curious as I am actually using a Mag 9.5 on my 75 gallon system and it doesn't really seem that strong.

2) Do you know how to make the Koralia power heads run silently? Mine make a lot of noise at start up and for that reason I am not running them on my wavemaker. When I visited Fat Tony he had a piece of airline tubing in front of the impeller on his to keep it from flying forward. I am going to try this during next weeks maintenance and see if it stops the noise so I can turn my wavemaster back on.

Good luck with everything, I will definitely be tagging along on this one.
With regards to your questions:
1. With regards to sump return flow, I am not looking to turn over a fantastic volume of water through my sump, only about 4-5 times tank volume per hour. Since the sump is where the particles in the water column go to settel (hopfully), you don't really want too high of flow. In the display, I will have a total water movement of aprox. 1700GPH which will be mainly controled by the 3 power heads in my display.

2. I didn't know there wat a problem with the Koralia power heads making noise on start up. This is the first I've ever heard of it. Maybe someone else will chime in and give their input.:confused:

Glad your tagging along and thank you for the input on the Koralia's, please let me know how the mod to your Koralia's goes when your done, I will have to start doing some research!
 

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spaceman spiff
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Good luck with the build! I'll be watching.

In terms of the return pump, a mag 7 or 9 may be a better choice, but if there's very little head loss the 5 may be enough. I use a 9 on my 150, but it's dialed way back with a gate valve. Note that the 5 and 7 have the same outlet, but if you do decide to upgrade to the 9 you'll have to redo a little plumbing (from 1/2" to 3/4" I believe). Otherwise, if you've already got the 5, I'd hook it up and see how it works. If you're buying it, start with something a little more powerful.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good luck with the build! I'll be watching.

In terms of the return pump, a mag 7 or 9 may be a better choice, but if there's very little head loss the 5 may be enough. I use a 9 on my 150, but it's dialed way back with a gate valve. Note that the 5 and 7 have the same outlet, but if you do decide to upgrade to the 9 you'll have to redo a little plumbing (from 1/2" to 3/4" I believe). Otherwise, if you've already got the 5, I'd hook it up and see how it works. If you're buying it, start with something a little more powerful.
Thank you Chris,
Regarding the pump, I already have the Mag5. I was able to purchase it cheeeeap!! That's why I have it. I figure give it a try, if it seems to be under-powered I will be upgrading to a Mag 9.5 and govern it accordingly.
 

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One suggestion is that if you want to keep SPS, you may want to upgrade those Koralia's to #3 or #4's instead of #1's. Also, thats alot of stuff that has to be plugged into one outlet. Everything else looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One suggestion is that if you want to keep SPS, you may want to upgrade those Koralia's to #3 or #4's instead of #1's. Also, thats alot of stuff that has to be plugged into one outlet. Everything else looks great.
- Starting with Koralia 1's, will add/upgrade where needed.
- All the lighting will be powered seperatly.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, got home with the wood for the frame and have begun construction.
ReadyToGoResize.JPG

Here is the top and bottom of the frame.
Frame1Resize.JPG

And on we go...:thumbup:<O:p</O:p
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was messing around with the camera over the weekend and took some pictures of my current 30g setup. I guess I have Hop to thank for this one, as he has inspired me to take some clown/anemone pic's with the beautiful ones that he posted recently. ;)
ClownAndAnemone.JPG
 

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2. I didn't know there wat a problem with the Koralia power heads making noise on start up. This is the first I've ever heard of it. Maybe someone else will chime in and give their input.:confused:
The impeller is actually loose on the shaft, so when you first start them up it flies forward and bangs abainst the housing some until it gets up to speed and slides back down into its proper position. I will try to fix mine this weekend and let you know how it goes.

Your not wasting any time getting this build started. :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Now back to work...
Here are a couple images of the frame's uprights. They have been constructed out of 2x4's which have been glue'd and screw'd :thumbup:.
Frame2.JPG

Here is a close up my model-like hands, showing the cuts. I decided on the triple support system which you see quite often here on TRT. My goal was to keep all the weight load on the wood "only" not on the fasteners.
Frame3.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My Skimmer Arrived today!!!

Thank you to the expedient people at AquaCave!!
I ordered the Octopus NW-200 on last Wednesday afternoon, Came this afternoon. Here's a tid-bit of info for anyone here on TRT who lives in Canada and looking to purchase a skimmer via the U.S.

If an item is not 'manufactured' in the United States, YOU WILL PAY DUTY AND BROKERAGE FEE'S TO UPS BEFORE THEY WILL HAND YOU THE PACKAGE!!!

My $200 skimmer + $32 shipping to Ontario (free shipping ends at the boarder) + $82 in broker fees and taxes. The $82 is due to the fact that the unit is manufactured in China. So... Just a heads up, if you order something find out where it is made, if in the US then no $82!!! :lol:

It's like Christmas all over again!!!:rotflmao:
SkimmerArrives.JPG

Here is the unit assembled, for those who have not seen an Octopus skimmer before, I have placed a Coke can beside it so you can see what kinda monster this thing actually is!!
SkimmerAssembled.jpg

Skimmer just begging to have the gate valve mod done!!!
 

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Reef Nut
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Dave, good idea w/ the can! I keep trying to tell people it's really big, so that helps. The gate valve mod is really helpful, very easy to adjust. (Be careful cutting the gray output tube so you don't crack the skimmer - otherwise, buy weld-on - I broke mine and had to fix it) The skimmer is really great - i am emptying that huge collection cup every day or 2 with really dark green gunk.
 

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Dave, good idea w/ the can! I keep trying to tell people it's really big, so that helps. The gate valve mod is really helpful, very easy to adjust. (Be careful cutting the gray output tube so you don't crack the skimmer - otherwise, buy weld-on - I broke mine and had to fix it) The skimmer is really great - i am emptying that huge collection cup every day or 2 with really dark green gunk.
I will be doing ithe gate valve mod in a way that the base tube will not need to be cut. I want to be able to put the skimmer back to factory defaults if need be. I will be getting a piece of pvc to fit over the outflow tube followed by a T fitting, then the usual parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Things starting to come together. I made it a point to get a good amount of work done over the weekend, because other than Wednesday's it is quite difficult to get anything done. Family has to come first!

Here is an image of the uprights being mounted to the lower frame.
Frame4.JPG
 
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