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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. Just came back from a few days trip to Grand Canyon and noticed my sailfin tang had these dark spots all over its body and fins. Not quite sure what it is but I’m worried it’s black ich.

water parameters
Nitrites: 0, Ammonium: 0, nitrates: ~60 (not great I know, working on fixing that), Temperature: ~74°F
Stocking: sailfin tang, powder brown tang, cleaner wrasse, 2x clarkii clowns, canary blenny, royal gramma, coral beauty and lemon peel angel, starry blenny, pink spot goby, some urchins, snails and hermits
Equipment: protein skimmer, blue media balls in sump, canister filter, ATO
Tank size: 180 gallons
Nuisance algae: cuando outbreak, trying to get it under control
Most recent change: adding the powder brown tang

any info would help. Also if it is black ich what’s the best treatment method? I don’t currently have a quarantine tank so I want To make sure this doesn’t turn into an outbreak and kill the tank
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hard to tell for certain. Looks fairly flush to the skin but like I said I’m not completely sure. Noticed that there might be a few on the powder brown as well but it’s also hard to tell as they’re nearly the same color as the tang. Cleaner wrasse is having a field day. If it is black inch, what’re my options for treatment?
 

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Fry Daddy! Multiple tanks, reef, seahorse
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This is from HumbleFish, he knows his stuff. Click on any of the blue highlighted print it will take you there.


Treatment Options:
  1. Praziquantel – 2 mg/L single dose for 7 days in a QT. Both Prazipro (2.5 mg/L) and API General Cure (2.0 mg/L) contain sufficient concentrations of praziquantel.
  2. Formalin – 45 to 60 minute bath treatment, followed by transfer into a sterile QT afterwards.
  3. Hyposalinity – Treat at 1.009 SG for at least 10 days. This kills both the infective and free living stages of the life cycle.
  4. Freshwater Dip – 5 minute freshwater dip may only provide temporary relief, and not result in complete eradication.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thinking I’ll go with the Prazipro option. Noticed that in the Humblefish post it mentioned that it’s reef safe so I was thinking I’d dose the tank in case there were any in the sand, rocks, or if any of the other fish were infected without my noticing. Would this be ok or would it be better to do a QT tank? I have a 10 gallon I could set up as a qt but I worry about confining the two tangs in that small of a tank (I’ve never done a qt tank due to space issues though I plan to get a qt setup when I move out). Appreciate the advice so far and any more to come too, thanks.
 

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Fry Daddy! Multiple tanks, reef, seahorse
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I can’t advise on the treatment, I personally never had to deal with much as far as sick fish in years . But if HumbleFish said it’s good then I would go with that. He is really knowledgeable. Ten gallon would be a bit small for tangs.
 

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How big are the tangs? 180 seems large but tangs stress easily. Nutrition is most important esp with grazers that normally consume a ton of veggie matter in a day. What are you feeding, how long have they been together?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry, I stepped away from paying attention to the discussion cause I thought it was getting better. Yesterday the powder brown died, got home today and now it seems like my whole tank is crashing. Starry blenny is dead, other tang is not looking like he’ll last long. One clown’s eyes are cloudy and she’s on the ground breathing heavy. The clown looks stressed but not in mortal danger. Only fish that seem unaffected are the cleaner wrasse, pink spot goby, and coral beauty angelfish. No sign of lemon peel angel. Urchins and hermits seem fine as well.

did water testing and ammonia spiked up to 0.5, I used some water detox/prime to try and help a little bit but I don’t really know what to do. I have an empty 75 gallon and 10 gallon. Don’t have a hospital tank/QT setup
 

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Fry Daddy! Multiple tanks, reef, seahorse
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Sounds like you are dealing with water quality issues Nomaybe to late to save some from the sounds hospital tank to quarantine maybe best and then treatment.
 

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Depending on size of fish the yen may work. The 75 is large and would take more medication if that’s the route you go. But you can set up with fresh salt water and monitor ammonia and do water changes as needed, I do my seahorse fry like that early on . Change water daily .,that site I referred you to HumbleFish is good place for treatment protocols
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Probably will set both up just so the fish aren’t all crammed into one tank. 75 will eventually be converted to a display tank. Just a bit set back by the crash. Saw some sites mentioned putting a bag of media or substrate in the tank but keep it contained. Think that would help or would it hurt given neither tanks have been used in at least a year?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
After putting in some water treatment the ammonia is almost zero again. Have water in both tanks (realized the 10 is actually a 5 gallon). Aerating the water and letting the pumps run for a little while before putting any of the fish in. How long should I wait before trying to move any of the fish. And when I do, should I just move them over or do an acclimation cycle?
 
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