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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am Looking for some input from all you closed looped system fans:

Im planning on using 2 AMP Master 4000, one for a closed loop, the other for sump return (W/7' Head), I would like to use a 3 way actuated ball valve on top of both of the pumps for surge control, However Im not sure which model, or size actuators to go with? Or were the best place is to purchase them.

This is going to be for a 235 (APPROX) gallon tank. The AM 4000's have a 2" return on them, so I was going to use a 3 way ball valve: 2" inlet, with 2" outlets for each pump.

what is a good MFG, and size actuator for 3 way ball valves of this size?

Also, for those of you that have tranks drilled out for CLS, what size holes do you have in your tank?, and tell me about your placement!

Thanks
 

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Hey Plat maybe i can give you some options.
When u are saying 3 way actuated ball valve do u mean a motorized ball valve ( if so they are real neat, and pricy)the best one is the hayward but it goes for around 300 bucks.

On the drilling of the tank do not do any drilling until u have the bulkhead that u are going to use. Thier are several manufactures and they are all different (as in a 1 1/2 bulkhead will come in 3 to 4 different hole sizes depending on the man.) I always use www.savko.com for plumbing parts.


One last thing on your return from the sump you are saying that u want to use a 4000 becareful this is not to powerful or u will have micro bubbles. I have a 6 foot long sump on my tank and had issues with bubbles. For a side suggestion on this pump picking. I would go with a ampmaster 2100 for the return from the sump and then go big on the closed loop maybe the amp save 5600

hope it helps

mike
 

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Plat shoot me an email and I will take some pictures for you tomorrow of my CLS and 3 way valves. I am using spears 1 1/2. They are being pushed via AM 3000. I am considering swapping one out for the AM 5600 or 4000. It depends how the flow will be when I get everything up and running like I want.

I know that most people use Hayward, but I opted for Spears. They both use the Nema IV enclosure for the valve. I belive it has a 75% duty cycle as well. I bought mine from Custom Aquatic.
 

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Here you go Plat....

The first picture shows the rock work and where I have the inlets and outlets. For each red circle there is either a return or inlet to a AM 3000. There is one inlet for each loop, back right and back left. Up top is two returns for one of the loops. In the rock work is the other loop outlets. You can only see one outlet in the rockwork from this vantage point, but there are 3 in each island.



The second picture is the left side of the stand. It has one of the loop pumps and the return pump. On top of the loop is the Spears 3 way ball valve.



The last picture shows the right side loop. It controls the flow in the rockwork.



I should be finished plumbing the sump soon....the return pump is connected to two 1" Sea Swirls. Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Andy - That is looking great! This is already putting alot of things in prespective for me! This will be my first attemp at a CLS, so it is nice to see how it is done! I have read, that you can use a Natural Wave Controller to turn there actuator on and off for current. Is this a good idea? Also, what are you using for yours?

Thanks for the info!

- sam
 

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Sam,

Thanks! It is coming together S L O W L Y. :D

I originally bought the natural wave timer for these valves. Neither of them worked. I don't know if I got two bad ones or the other people that run them are lucky.

Luckily a friend of mine is an electrical engineer and is in the hobby. He is building me a wave timer for the valves. It is almost done. It will controll both valves. It has adjustment knobs to change the speed in which the valves oscilate. It also has night mode with a light sensor that will allow one of the valves to stay in the fully open position for less turbulent flow at night. It also has LED lights to show which ports are open. :D It is going to be sweet. I will post some pics when it is up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
uh -oh! I already have a Natural Wave timer that I wanted to use!

Will your buddy make me one? :) JK ....there has got to be a way to make the Natual wave timer work _ These tanks are constantly challenging our troubleshooting skills! :idea:

I should prbably got down to the plumbing store see exactly how the actuators work! I assuming, when there it has power to it, it stays in one position, and when it loses power (off) it moves to the other position? Sounds logical! but I am new to them.

Ohh - do you know what the delay time is on those spears? The time it takes to change positions?
 

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Try the wave timers. I know of several people using them without fail. They just didn't work for me.

I believe it takes 2.5 seconds to rotate the valve to the next position. I would have to look at the instructions to make sure though....

THe valves get power to one side and it rotates. The power is then shut off. The opposite side then receives power and it rotates back. Once the valve oscilates, then power should be cut off so there is no voltage going to any of the valve. When powered it rotates only.
 
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