The Reef Tank banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,I was wondering if you could help me with a few questions.1-I have a calcium reactor and just purchased kalk reactor with top off pump.I can not seem to maintain ph It's staying at 7.7 to 8.0 I really want to get it to raise but I'm clue less at this point.I just purchased new lighting and struggling with algae on the glass within 2-days of cleaning Ialso have some unwanted kind of like hair algae on some of my live rock and can't seem to get rid of it.My tank is 2.5 years old corals are ok but not coloring up the way they should any advise would be deeply appreciated.
Thank you for your time Jeff
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
34,435 Posts
Welcome to TRT!!!

:wavey:

sounds like you have a sand bed tank and the sand bed is about full and are running into phosphate problems. :(

what is the pH of the system with the Ca reactor off? if it is still low than your sand bed is sucking all of the 02 out of the system and releasing CO2 causing your pH to go down.

pretty sure this is not what you wanted to hear, sorry.

G~
 

·
spaceman spiff
Joined
·
11,769 Posts
Hey Jeff, welcome to TRT!

I've also had pretty low levels of pH recently, and I'm chalking it up to poor house ventilation with the winter months. But as Geoff mentions, could be an increase in CO2 in your setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the comments if you were having the issues what would you do to reslve this.Do I need to remove sand?Shut down co2? huge water change? thanks again Jeff
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,051 Posts
I am guessing that you are using a pH monitor since you have a calcium reactor. When was the last time you callibrated your pH monitor? Oh, and welcome to TRT! :agree:
 

·
Stinky Slimey FEESH
Joined
·
2,718 Posts
Along for the ride here, learning something - welcome to TRT!

HHC
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,375 Posts
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-05/sh/feature/index.php

This link should help you. The CO2 that is killing your PH is coming from you reactor. If you find a way to degas the water discharged from the reactor your PH will come back up. You should shoot for a PH of about 12 from the kalk reactor. I'm not saying you will get there though. If the PH is only 9 then its not mixing well or the kalk in the chamber is about used up, and most of what's left is insoluble calcium carbonate. The goal is to mix about two teaspoons of kalk per gallon of water moving through the reactor. Some reactors are better at this than others. If you can get the PH from both reactors up, I believe it will fix your tank PH problems.
The alge is a different issue. What is your nitrate and phosphate levels in the tank water? Can you tell us a little about your system?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
34,435 Posts
i am not liking the fact that you say that your corals are not colouring up like you think they should. :( this is usually a sign of increasing phosphates.

listen to Elegance to get things on a stable setting, then we can work on fine tuning with consistent readings.

G~
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,051 Posts
I'm gonna bump this thread for Tom to see it and give a reply. I had talked to him about this issue and he recommended the Borax test to see if the pH probe was working properly. Beyond that, he will be able to help you with the chemical stuff much better than I ever could. It does seem like the calcium reactor needs adjusting, too much CO2 is getting into your system.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,355 Posts
Many issues related to too much CO2 getting into the tank with CO2 rezctors, lot has to do with how you have the reactors set up and issuese with how you're measuring the pH...
  • How are you measuring the pH?
  • If you are using a pH probe, what brand, and how many dcimal points does it measure?
  • what is the result of testing using the borax test?
  • You definitely have some source of phosphate releasing into the tank if you have issues with green hair algae, and it is probably feeding off the excessive levels of CO2 from the reactor, so that at night the levels probably drop even more as photosynthesis drops out with the end of the photoperiod. You will need to determine what the source of excessive phosphate is and eliminate it (DSB? saturated or detritus covered LR? excessive feeding? large number of fishes?) then drop phosphate levels and reduce free CO2 in the tank.
  • how do you control the amounts of CO2 released into the reactor?
  • What controls the amount of kalkwasser dispensed into the tank?
Let me just make sure, you're using BOTH kalkwasser in a reactor and a CO2 -driven Calcium reactor and the pH is at 7.7 to 7.9? We definitely need to know a lot more about how the tank is set up. Can you tell us what biotope you're attempting to emulate, what substrate, if any, you use, the volume of the tank, and how much live rock is in the tank? what lighting do you use? How often do you blast the rock with current to remove detritus? How often do you siphon detritus out of the tank? Do you have a sump? A refugium? Do you have covers on the tank? What brand of skimmer do you use, and how often do you clean it? Do you use carbon? How about mechanical filtration (bioballs, filterfloss, Magnum-type filters, filter pad or filter sox, etc?)? How many fish in the tank, and how do you feed them?

A lot of questions, but some of the many we'll be asking to solve the issues with this tank...

Looking forward to your responses! and welcome to TRT!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
equipment used

Many issues related to too much CO2 getting into the tank with CO2 rezctors, lot has to do with how you have the reactors set up and issuese with how you're measuring the pH...
  • How are you measuring the pH?
  • If you are using a pH probe, what brand, and how many dcimal points does it measure?
  • what is the result of testing using the borax test?
  • You definitely have some source of phosphate releasing into the tank if you have issues with green hair algae, and it is probably feeding off the excessive levels of CO2 from the reactor, so that at night the levels probably drop even more as photosynthesis drops out with the end of the photoperiod. You will need to determine what the source of excessive phosphate is and eliminate it (DSB? saturated or detritus covered LR? excessive feeding? large number of fishes?) then drop phosphate levels and reduce free CO2 in the tank.
  • how do you control the amounts of CO2 released into the reactor?
  • What controls the amount of kalkwasser dispensed into the tank?
Let me just make sure, you're using BOTH kalkwasser in a reactor and a CO2 -driven Calcium reactor and the pH is at 7.7 to 7.9? We definitely need to know a lot more about how the tank is set up. Can you tell us what biotope you're attempting to emulate, what substrate, if any, you use, the volume of the tank, and how much live rock is in the tank? what lighting do you use? How often do you blast the rock with current to remove detritus? How often do you siphon detritus out of the tank? Do you have a sump? A refugium? Do you have covers on the tank? What brand of skimmer do you use, and how often do you clean it? Do you use carbon? How about mechanical filtration (bioballs, filterfloss, Magnum-type filters, filter pad or filter sox, etc?)? How many fish in the tank, and how do you feed them?

A lot of questions, but some of the many we'll be asking to solve the issues with this tank...

Looking forward to your responses! and welcome to TRT!
Thank you,
Here is the equipment I have set up 100 gallon custom tank w/85lbs live rock could be more, 55 gallon sump 60lbs rock.I run 350 magnum filter filled with fritz carbon.I add fritz trace elements once a week I have euro-reef skimmer,aquamedic 1000 kalk reactor with inland seas powder and sp3000 niveaumat dosing pump.I don't know the name of my ca reactor I built a cabinet in trade for it and a few other items but it's 2 stage would of cost close to 1000.00 by looking on line with a milwakkee sms 122 ph monitor and a ma957 co2 regulator.My lighting is main tank 3-vho 36"bulbs 2-actinic and 1-aquasun,2-250watt xm 15000k and on the sump I have 1 36" vho aquasun and 1-250 watt xm 20000k bulb.All my filters are 3 mounths old for my ro unit.I have 55 gallon drum with lid for make up water and the salinty is .024 I do not cover either tank I custom built beatifull oak cabinet with canopy for lighting.I do have around 15-fish 2-royal grammas,4-pajama cardinal,1-yellow tang,1-foxface,1-blonde naso tang,1-gold band marron clown a couple of damsels, 2-engineer goby,1 dragon goby and 1 maderin. I feed 2-times a day once flake and then brine I feed the acans as well with the brine.I did shut down ca reactor yesterday to see what will happen with my ph promblem I actually didn't have that many bubbles going through the bubble counter.As far as bio balls,socks etc...I only have floss in a 1-gallon jug that my return emptys into I do have 4-mango in a tub with the mud well what ever it is. I'm trying to get to grow just added that 10 days ago.I have snails,hermit crabs, urchins and other critters to help out I have removed detritus from rocks before.Well I think that is about it as far as equipment goes Thank you for your time, Look forward in hearing back from you.
Jeff:beer:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,051 Posts
Some thoughts on your setup (I bet it's an awesome cabinet, would love to see a pic!). It sounds like you have too much rock, you might want to consider removing the rock in the sump as it tends to just collect detritus in there. It's also unusual to have halide lighting for the sump - I'm guessing you have opposing photoperiods to light the sump at night? If so, that should help maintain the pH at night. Do you have sand in your tank, either in the display or the sump? Over time, a sandbed will collect detritus and waste and become a hotbed for phosphate. Your's may have reached the saturation point and need to be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Some thoughts on your setup (I bet it's an awesome cabinet, would love to see a pic!). It sounds like you have too much rock, you might want to consider removing the rock in the sump as it tends to just collect detritus in there. It's also unusual to have halide lighting for the sump - I'm guessing you have opposing photoperiods to light the sump at night? If so, that should help maintain the pH at night. Do you have sand in your tank, either in the display or the sump? Over time, a sandbed will collect detritus and waste and become a hotbed for phosphate. Your's may have reached the saturation point and need to be replaced.
Hi,I actually have lighting on same time for I also have items that has grown upstairs I have thinned out a few things and sometime hope to start cutting of acans and stonies.Yes I do also have sand for there are several tube worms,feather dusters call them what you will in the sand they are kind of nice to watch but I'm sure I could save them to get rid of sand would be alot of work but if that's what it takes then I will need to due that I want my tank back the way I had in the past very nice.Thanks
Jeff
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top