better do a listing of the following first before going off on a rollercoaster of calcium and alkalinity and salinity shifts:
We need values for your :
- alkalinity in either dKH or mEq/l (see link below on testkit for high borte Seachem salt alk)
- calcium in PPM
- am, noon, and pm pH
- salinity as either S.G. with water temp or at PPT via refractometer, NOT SWINGARM HYDROMETER.
- Mg as PPM
Please perform these tests with reliable titration test kits (Salifert would be the most reliable, but you need the seachem borate kit along with this test to get the results for carbonate alk), except for pH, where the use of a probe would be better, along with the results of doing the borax test for the probe itself.
How do you do your water changes, and what salt were you using before? I notice that you are now using Seachems seasalt ASW mix to do water changes. You need to be aware that this ASW mix is not a good substitute for ASW when dealing with corls or other hermtypic cretures, as it has quite a difference in alkalinity based on the use of borate instead of carbonate/bicarbonate. Rather than reinvent the wheel, see
THIS CLICKABLE LINK to see Randy's (FARLEY-HOLMES) AA article on the topic. He does suggest using a modified Magnesium-Borate test kit that Seachem makes , but using a pH probe to get to the final pH of 6.0 as an intermediate step in the titration for results (see the article). I imiagine that the high borate is a major part of your problem at this point, my personal suggestion is to go back to IO or some ther carbonate-alkalinity-based ASW mix for a reef system and do several >50% water changes before tinkering with the system's alkalinity and calcium.
HTH