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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to put in a 1" bulkhead inside a brute 44g trashcan and it keeps leaking. Is there a special science behind getting it to not leak? Do I need to silicone over the bulkhead or double up the rubber seal to prevent this?
 

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I'm trying to put in a 1" bulkhead inside a brute 44g trashcan and it keeps leaking. Is there a special science behind getting it to not leak? Do I need to silicone over the bulkhead or double up the rubber seal to prevent this?
Did you just use a normal drill bit, or a hole cutter, like what is used to put in a door knob?

Just a normal drill bit can sometimes make rough edges, and if you then try to clean it up, it will make the hole .....well just wierd and cause a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think I may have figured it out.

I read a post on a different forum that said no matter which way the fitting it placed the washer never goes on the nut side. I figured the gasket would go on the water side no matter what but I guess not. I'm doing a leak test now with the washer on the outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It seems to be holding a lot better.

It already made it further then the other water test did but it's still has a long way to go to tell if it's going to be 100% leak proof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is a 3 step system

Step 1: Fill up the ro/di can
Step 2: Turn on pump to pump the ro/di over to the salwater can
Step 3: Turn off the valve to the ro/di and it starts to fill back up (a float valve will turn it off when it reaches the top) then using the same pump from step 2 it will pull the water from the bottom of the can and dump it in the top of the same can thus creating a saltwater mixer.

I was tired of mixing saltwater and ro/di water per water change and I just want to be able to have the water on hand read to for for when I need it.

I will snap some shots of the system, although it's not complete yet still waiting on a few parts in the mail.
 

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This is a 3 step system

Step 1: Fill up the ro/di can
Step 2: Turn on pump to pump the ro/di over to the salwater can
Step 3: Turn off the valve to the ro/di and it starts to fill back up (a float valve will turn it off when it reaches the top) then using the same pump from step 2 it will pull the water from the bottom of the can and dump it in the top of the same can thus creating a saltwater mixer.

I was tired of mixing saltwater and ro/di water per water change and I just want to be able to have the water on hand read to for for when I need it.

I will snap some shots of the system, although it's not complete yet still waiting on a few parts in the mail.
Is there anyway that u can put ro/di tank on top of saltwater tank, and plumb it in so it is gravity fed, and no need for pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here it is in its current state. The buckets under the stand aren't holding the stand up just simply using it as a storage for them.


This is pretty much what I'm looking to get
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is there anyway that u can put ro/di tank on top of saltwater tank, and plumb it in so it is gravity fed, and no need for pump?
I thought about doing that but I figured I would attach a vinyl tube to the pump with a ball valve on it and simply be able to fill up buckets of saltwater or ro/di water using the same line pretty easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well just went and checked it and there is a small drop over the past hour that has came out while a very very small amount still too much for my liking so I'm going to drain it remove the bulkhead and try to redo the seal again. If that doesn't work I will try the uniseal bulkhead I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok, i see. You are in Florida corect? This looks like its in garage, are you woried about heat?
I would love to put mine in the garage, but worried about how hot it gets.
Yep I'm in north Florida. I'm not worried about heat too much. My garage in the dead of summer will only get to around 115 degrees. I only change out 10% of my total water volume which is 175g. So I don't think that the 10% change in warm water into the tank will make that much of a difference. I could be wrong on that but I wouldn't imagine it would go up more then a degree or two tops.
 

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I had the same problem with my bulkhead leaking. I tried everything. What finally worked is flipping the bulkhead. The smaller part goes in the can with the washer inside. Then the nut on the outside. It kinda pulls the two together. It worked for me.
 

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The Uniseal will work better due to the curvature of the can.
The gasket always goes on teh flange side of a bulkhead regardless if it is on the wet or dry side but a bulkhead is not the best fit for what you are doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I tried the uniseal and for some reason I couldn't keep it fully sealed against the can. I tried a few different times and it leaked every time. I tried to reseal the bulk heads too and it still leaked. So I ended up flipping the bulkhead and putting the nut side on the outside of the can. It finally worked without any leaks. I'm not sure why the uniseal didn't work maybe it's user error but I tried 2 of them and they both leaked.

Here is a picture of the almost complete project. I just need to add a t to the return side of the pump about half way up where I will have my vinyl tubing coming off with a ball valve so I can fill up the buckets. I'm also going to drill a hole in the top of the left can and use the uniseal there for the return line. I'm happy with the way it all turned out though.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I want to build a system like this. I have trash can envy right now.
lol trash can envy.

I just like making my fish husbandry a little easier any way possible. Now I can easily mix salt water, auto fill up my RO/DI and easily pump it from the cans to 5g buckets. I'm guessing it will save me about 2 hours a week worth of work. Multiply that by 52 weeks in a year and you get 104 hours or a little over 4 days of my life back :agree:
 
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