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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My tank is an Oceanic Biocube 14. I have removed the stock lighting system completely including the fans and circuit board. I have then retrofit a Current LED into the hood. I cut the LED bar myself with a Dremel cutting tool. I then re-sealed the light bar. Other mods include an InTank media filter basket. I am running aquarium floss, chemi pure elite and purigen. I have installed a maxi-jet 900 and also a Hydor nano 240. I was debating going for the MP10 but it just doesn't make sense to me to spend that amount of money on a powerhead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yesterday was my first day with the tank running. I put live sand, live rock and water from my LFS. Water tested perfectly so I put some hermit crabs in there with a couple snails and a Royal Gramma. Everyone in the tank seems very happy.
 

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As a Navy SEAL told me once "Move slow, slow is smooth and smooth is fast"....moral of the story is that one day running and adding hermits may be a tad soon. Allow 1 or more weeks between changes as the bio system needs to adjust to the load variances. FYI
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So today is day 4 and the water tested perfect. The Royal Gramma is happy and eating a lot. I have to say I'm really impressed with the intelligence of this particular fish. I have been feeding him using the turkey baster method as to not introduce an abundant amount of decaying organic matter to the tank. He knows that when i stick the tip of that thing in the water to come to the surface to feed. Very cool to watch. I'm surprised by how much he is eating. (mysis shrimp)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have the reef master test kit and everything reads within the nominal parameters. Phosphate and nitrate are 0. Everything else is within nominal range.
 

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Ammonia and Nitrite should be zero...what does nominal mean as far as those two are concerned?
That's what I was getting at.....if you read any ammonia or nitrite then your probably still cycling. Some nitrate is considered pretty normal
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Today is day 7 and I just did a water test. Nitrate is a little tad more than 0. Nitrite = 0 Ammonia = 0 Phosphate = 0 PH= 8.0 dKH= 8 degreees Calcium = 400. What do you guys think? Can I add a coral or should I wait a month? Also, I forgot to mention that I have some coralline algae beginning to grow on my live rock.
 

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I always say wait for corals. There's a lot more going on in the tank than meets the eye, or test in this case. The tank will create it's own unique ecosystem complete with algae, zooplankton, phytoplankton, and other wonderful things. What this means is that the tank will change from now until then in ways you aren't detecting but which could (though not always) affect the coral's health. This balancing act can take a few months. I generally recommend waiting until you have all your fish in and a couple of months go by after that. Not a hard and fast rule of course, but I have found it works well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you for the advice. It's great to have found a group of people that take pride and are involved in the hobby. I'm really looking forward to learning more as I go. I will definitely take your advice and wait.
 

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Thank you for the advice. It's great to have found a group of people that take pride and are involved in the hobby. I'm really looking forward to learning more as I go. I will definitely take your advice and wait.
:thumbup: Good attitude!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So today has been interesting. I came home to find a thin layer of completely colorless snot looking slime on my live sand. Also stringing from my live rock. I did some searching and it may be colorless Dinoflagellates? Anyone experience this before and what should I do?
 

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I think it would help if you posted a photo.

If you aren't running carbon, I suggest you put some in. If it really is dino they put off toxins and the carbon will help absorb them.

The reduction of nutrients (nitrates and phosphates) help and when you do water changes suck out the slime with the water. Twice a week changes will help curb them.

This is a case where organisms can be a better indicator of nutrient levels than test kits. A test kit could easily show zero PPM free nitrate but it's clear by the existence of nitrate consuming organisms that it does exist in enough quantity to cause a population bloom.
 
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