The Reef Tank banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Cabana Boy
Joined
·
2,070 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I set up a closed loop system and its working great, except for one thing. ..... it has a drip coming from the pvc thats attached to the bulkhead from underneath the tank. I cant take it of since that would dump all ther water on the floor. Ive tried to use that silicone tape, but it still leaks through the tape. I was thinking of using some of that clay-looking epoxy to basically cover that whole area. I was wondering if there was any other remedies out there.
 

·
.
Joined
·
11,345 Posts
if its the bulkhead you really need to empty it...if its the pipe...the best thing to do would be to access it from the top and install a plug...use silicone if its a slip fitting and just screw in a plug if its threaded...

then fix the pipe

OR before you go to any of that effort...try getting some weldon #16 and simply running a bead around the seam between the bulhead and the pipe where it is leaking....ive never done this before.....but i think it would work......it would be a band aid similar to silicane but if you could get it dry enough ti should seal the deal..........especially if the entire thing is over your sump....thats about the safest place to have a slow leak
 

·
Cabana Boy
Joined
·
2,070 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well it seems to be leaking from the pipe that is inserted into the bulkhead. I really dont want to drain it since its just a slow drip, but I would like to get it sealed. What do you guys mean by using a plug? like a pvc cap? how would that be water tight? I didnt think they were unless we are talking about something else. Either way if I do plug it from up top, how would I be able to remove the pvc that is attached to the bulkhead to redo it?
 

·
Cabana Boy
Joined
·
2,070 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I dont know if I need to cap it though. The pipe that is leaking is the one going back into the tank. So if I disconnect the pump it shouldnt leak I just have to make sure the lockline connected to the manifold on the top of the tank is pointed up. Im wondering though if theres any way I can remove the pvc that is glued to the bulkhead to redo it again?
 

·
Cabana Boy
Joined
·
2,070 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well since its just a closed loop system that the leaking bulkhead goes up to a manifold sitting on top of the tank, I could let it sit for a while and let it dry out. I just was wondering what would be the best thing to use that could handle a little bit of pressure. Im going to probably swing by the home depot and look to see what options would be best. The best thing I figured what just to get some epoxy, and completely cover that whole area with it and be done with it.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello!
I was read about you problem than i try to find out the solution of this.I found some i hope this will be helpful for you.....
In order to repair a leaky PVC joint, first of all purchase the same angled PVC joint along with a small length of replacement PVC tubing. Also take a couple of straight coupling joints. Ensure that you are purchasing the right size diameter that is consistent with the rest of the PVC drain plumbing. To initiate the process, turn off the water supply to the affected plumbing fixtures. try this imarketingbiz.net

When you have got to know about the point from where the PVC joint is leaking then use a hacksaw to cut out the leaky PVC joint. Cut around 2 inches beyond either end of the PVC joint. Once you have removed the leaky PVC joint section, clean the edges of the PVC pipe using a file, sandpaper and rag. As last clean the ends of the PVC pipe using a PVC cleaning solution.
Now you need to measure the space between the two cut PVC ends and then cut a couple of small sections of PVC tubing. Using PVC cleaning solution, clean all newly cut pieces of PVC tubing and PVC joints.
Fit the small sections of tubing together with the PVC joint and try to connect them to the two ends of the exiting PVC plumbing lines. With the help of PVC coupler joint, tie them in to the existing PVC drain pipe. After that using a marker, create a line over the pipe ends and the joints for alignment marks.
When you are sure that the dry fit PVC joint assembly is of proper length and angle, disassemble the joint assembly. After this, you can start working on a single joint connection at a time and applyglue to the inside edge of the PVC joint and one end section of PVC pipe. After completely applying the PVC glue to each piece, move them forward together while aligning the marks. Now you need to hold them for around 10 seconds before letting go.
Repeat this process on all of the joint sections, again being careful how you position the alignment marks. Once the PVC joint assembly is glued together, applyglue to the ends of the existing drain pipes and the inside edges of the straight coupling joints.
The last step is to position the new PVC joint assembly in between the existing pipe sections and hold it for 10 seconds. Now turn on the water supply to the plumbing fixture and check the repaired PVC joint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
They do have wet or dry PVC glue . I think that would work. I had a small leak in the same area, let it drip in sump. It stoped on its own.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
624 Posts
Get some JB quickweld or equivalent
Mix it and get it ready
Blast the area with a hair dryer to make sure its as dry as possible.
Then just smother the JB weld over the area. put some pressure on it as you are applying, so it can seep into the crack and stop the leaking.
once the leaking is plugged the rest of it will get rock hard and hold the part that seeped into the crack in place till it dries.

use common sense in your application and im sure you will be fine

If done properly this will work. I have used this stuff to plug cracked radiators (on the metal fins not just on the plastic!!) and each time it has worked till the person I did it for got rid of the car.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top