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· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could it B? Believe it or not it B.

My 46 bow front over the last year developed salt creep up the front
glass from the bottom frame that only needed wiping every 2 weeks or so.
Still, with the advice of Fat Tony, I decided to shut it down, as I am not
going to reseal any aquarium.

My 20g QT has been Old Faithful, but it's time to retire it.
It's older than I can remember, and the silicone is missing in
many spots save for the joint itself, from repeated scraping.
Neither tank do I trust as far as I could throw them, so I'm
retiring both tanks.

It's Winter, and the next month will be very busy at work
even this weekend, so this will be sort of slow mid point.
Should start and finish pretty quick.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
What I'm replacing with this 40B


So here's the 20g QT in all its glory. It's been a really nice tank.
This is what I'm replacing, and the clamped on ATO L side
and GFO reactor R side will go in the sump. What you see is what you get with this 20. Pretty bare, pretty unruly too with the wires.

It's sitting on 3 2x4's on a night stand. Otherwise it would hang over the edge



I like this stand. It's framed up with 1x rough cut oak.
I also like the brass anchor corners I bought at clockkit.com years ago
used on the doors, and cannot find anymore. I need to polish the patina off them.

The top of the stand and sides will be modified to fit the new
larger foot print the 40B has over the taller 46 Bow front.
It will not be a perfect match, but should blend ok.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I should add, that that black looking thing on the back L of the tank
is no filtre. It is a bracket for the HVS2-24 skimmer I'll be using.
Right now it's a catch all, holding a couple things.

Like either of the 2 on the left here ^

Lighting will start out as 2 PAR38s as I already have them.
Will probably add another, and I think I have one more of
those 3 lamp household fixtures I used on the canopy build
in my signature.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, I will be using a skimmer rated at 250g on a 40B. It's the smallest one I have.
Something has to have quality to it. The tank already needs all the help it can get.

So here it is. The back is facing forward.



as you can see it does not fit the stand.
I also like Oak trim instead of black. We'll work on that too.

The 40B is lighter and made to quite a lower standard than either of my All Glass aquariums. You'd think they'd put beginners on 5g tanks :rolleyes:

This is the F R corner taken from the back side of the tank based on sticker locations.
The silicone tapers like an hour glass inside all corners and is squished out
onto the outer side glass untrimmed. (my wife was right, I am picky)

A bit easier to see, the silicone tapers multiple times, and one corner is
obviously smudged. Both back corners have a wider strip of silicone than the front.

I'll have to get a better pic once I move the tank, but this gives you an idea
of craftsmanship. The front and back panels are different lengths based on
the overhanging of the side panels.

I really do not understand this compromising of the frame. Both back corners
are like this. So if the tank holds up for 30 years, that's all the complaints I have with it.

I really like the no brace, aesthetically, but the joints have to be good
fingers crossed :biga:
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Modifying my stand

Fortunately, I did not make my stand curved to mirror the bow front :thumbup:
The back is off and I can scope how to add depth to the entire stand.

Back OFF! :)

I overlapped the side enough to cover the back, now I have to take the router
and flush it to add depth.

With the front positioned here



and the sides here ^

This is how much the back would overhang, and a 2x4 on edge, the most
strength one can achieve, I get a most perfect fit.
Add verticals 2 x 4's from underneath the top piece, top to floor,
add a slab of plywood on top, and touch up a bit, should be good to go on the mod job.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·

· Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Following.
What are the plans for the overflow?
Subb'ed! Tagging along!!!
Welcome aboard guys. Not going to the inth degree with this one.
In fact, I've lowered my standards using this tank with the issues
it comes with. Fair price on the tank, would have been stellar for the LFS to
have warned me there was inconsistent silicone application, but hopefully
it's just a visual thing, and the seal itself is good to go.

I like Oak trimmed aquariums, even though it's plastic, it goes with my stand.
So I'm fixin to order some real red oak veneer to trim the tanks frame with.
Cheaper than the rimless for sure. Lowes had some 2" veneer 8' long
but was pre-glued for iron on. I'll be using contact cement, no heat.

Earl, I'll be using the same HOB Lifereef overflow that was on the 46…Herbie
all the way for me :) On my 46 it rarely ever needed adjusting.
I've been using it ~20 yrs now, and it looks a little rough, but so do I.
On my 100 as big as the overflow is, the gate has to be adjusted weekly
sometimes daily, but I'm good with it. It's silent, and that's what matters here.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got the over lap flushed down with the router and the top piece
gluing on now. Will let it set over night, and put the screws to it tomorrow
and get the verticals on. The front corners sit a tad low, will have to shim
and the plywood top will go on tomorrow. With the bow front, the front corners were not an issue.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
tagging along! I'm in the middle of two 40B builds (one fresh, one salt) so glad to see some others with pics for ideas =)
Thanks. Don't think I've posted any pics yet that would help for ideas though
stay tuned…

Called one LFS today and the notches in the frame is repeated on the Marineland 75's in stock. He suggested that the outer band and top
of the frame is the strength of the frame. I see it as a direction pointer
for a crack, where to go. This seam tapers down, but decent width. F L corner.

This is the F R corner. Huge difference. Just mulling it over again before
I decide for sure whether or not to ask them to order another one in full cost.
I think I'll send the owner an email with these 2 pics and see what he says about returning it or not.
You can even see ghost lines, where the silicone should be.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Paint the bottom ?


Considering painting the bottom white, though a lot of that won't be seen.
What do you guys think? Just sent an email to the LFS with a few pics.
Once I paint the back black and the bottom white, there's no turning back.
 

· Shark...fish are friends
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5,349 Posts
the bottom is tempered, the sides are not. I just busted one of my 40B's this morning so I know for a fact the sides are not tempered =) had to go buy another 40B so I have 3 of them sitting here now... think I will hang on to the one I busted and eventually try to replace the piece of glass that broke... some day when I have a bigger house maybe I'll set the other 40B up in my fish room (where my wife won't go so she won't know that I'm running the extra tank lol)
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
the bottom is tempered, the sides are not. I just busted one of my 40B's this morning so I know for a fact the sides are not tempered...
Oh no :crap: what did you do?
 
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