I highly recommend using a ATO storage container and not hooking directly to your RO/DI no matter how robust or redundant you think your system is. Things can and do go wrong (Murphy's Law) and if you have an unlimited supply of RO/DI you will flood your tank with fresh water killing everything.
With an ATO storage vessel you can limit that amount of RO/DI for an added level of safety and peace of mind.
Another issue you are going to encounter and is a major one is a float switch has a very limited amount of travel between off and on so your RO/DI will be constantly cycling on and off leading to major TDS creep issues. Using two float switches to operate it, not as a safety back up, helps this situation since you can set one a few inches lower than the other so the bottom one triggers it on and the top one triggers it off and yiou get longer, more cleansing RO runs so the membrane stays flushed via the waste ratio. In that case you would add a third float switch as the high-high emergency backup.
I use dual float switches and a low voltage solenoid to fill my ATO reservoir from the RO/DI then use a peristaltic pump controlled by a digital sensor with a 0" to 4" adjustable range for my sump level with an additional float switch as my high-high backup in an emergency which has never been needed.
You don't want your RO/DI kicking on and off frequently, it will foul the membrane much sooner and cut your DI life drastically costing you much more than if you had installed a better ATO design, pre made or DIY. I felt the money I invested in my ATO setup going on 6 years ago was money well spent and it has served me well.
With an ATO storage vessel you can limit that amount of RO/DI for an added level of safety and peace of mind.
Another issue you are going to encounter and is a major one is a float switch has a very limited amount of travel between off and on so your RO/DI will be constantly cycling on and off leading to major TDS creep issues. Using two float switches to operate it, not as a safety back up, helps this situation since you can set one a few inches lower than the other so the bottom one triggers it on and the top one triggers it off and yiou get longer, more cleansing RO runs so the membrane stays flushed via the waste ratio. In that case you would add a third float switch as the high-high emergency backup.
I use dual float switches and a low voltage solenoid to fill my ATO reservoir from the RO/DI then use a peristaltic pump controlled by a digital sensor with a 0" to 4" adjustable range for my sump level with an additional float switch as my high-high backup in an emergency which has never been needed.
You don't want your RO/DI kicking on and off frequently, it will foul the membrane much sooner and cut your DI life drastically costing you much more than if you had installed a better ATO design, pre made or DIY. I felt the money I invested in my ATO setup going on 6 years ago was money well spent and it has served me well.
