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Saltwater Mom
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First what kind of test are you using? Could the test be bad? Maybe get the lfs to double check for you. Are you using any supplments?
 

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Its not the end of the world and its better being roughly 4 points high than 4 points low.....

however.....
We DO need the rest of your water parameters, how you test and what supplements you add to the tank and wehn the last time you added them to help any further though.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok te rest of the water parameters:

Ca 440 Aquarium Pharm.
Alk/DKh 16+ Salifert
Nitrate undetectable Aqua Pharm
pH 8.3 Aquarium Pharm

Supplements: Red Sea 'Calcium+3'

Seachem Builder
Seachem Kalkwasser (Top off water)
Red Sea 'Trace Elements'

Thats all she wrote aside from the carbon and phosphate sponge
 

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uber-stupid
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I can't see the reading being correct on your DKH. You calcium is too high to allow this. Not terribly posative about it though I don't know the exsact perameters that they follow.
 

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i would have assumed that your calcium levels were lower than you say with a alkalinity reading that is a little high. Im not familiar with how accurate the calcium test kit you are using is.

I would just suggest doing a couple of water changes over the next week and not add any calcium supplement.......see if that brings things in line. ????
 

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ditch the trace elements suppliment, not needed. water changes will keep these in check. it could be adding something that could be throwing stuff out of wack.

stop dosing the Seachem builder. this is what is raising your alk. it sounds like you are following the recommended doses, but not double checking the results with the test kits often enough. ;)

i suggest switching over to a two part Ca alk suppliment like Kent's A+B solutions. always check your levels before dosing and adjust the doses accordingly. also double check the dosing the next day to verify that things moved in the correct direction.

the kalk top-off is doing more than you think, and a lot more than the recommended doses are taking into account.

HTH,

G~
 

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Ditto Geoff's comments, and your Ca test kit from Aq Pharm is probably in error, not known for exacting repeatable testing...


What is your pH range during the day, could you post your levels every 2 hrs for a day? Also, if possible, make a fresh batch of IO salt water, adjust the salinity to 35 PPT and test it with your alk kit (salifert), what are the results for this test?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
tdwyatt said:
Ditto Geoff's comments, and your Ca test kit from Aq Pharm is probably in error, not known for exacting repeatable testing...


What is your pH range during the day, could you post your levels every 2 hrs for a day? Also, if possible, make a fresh batch of IO salt water, adjust the salinity to 35 PPT and test it with your alk kit (salifert), what are the results for this test?
ok the alk test of the fesh batch of IO and RO was like 5-6 DKh. i\i am assuming my test kit is crap.

i tested the pH all day today. not much fun. and it did not change at all from like 8.3 to 8.4. so i am lost for explanations. my LFS said to just stop adding the seachem builder and to keep testing to see if i am adding too much builder (alk raiser).
 

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chandlerchris said:
i tested the pH all day today. not much fun. and it did not change at all from like 8.3 to 8.4. so i am lost for explanations. my LFS said to just stop adding the seachem builder and to keep testing to see if i am adding too much builder (alk raiser).
pH in marine systems is controlled by the levels of CO2 in the system, and to some extent long term by buffer levels (that can donate or absorb protons). As photosynthesis occurs during the day, the levels of CO2 produced by animals and dissolved in the water column are taken out of the water faster than atmospheric diffusion or trophic respirations can occur. This means that the additions of CO2 are being replaced slower by normal sources than the utilization by photoautotrophs to make sugars and precursors to other organic compounds. It follows that you pH will climb from it's morning low to the evening high (when the lights go out) as these organisms use up available dissolved CO2 in the water column. Once the lights go out, most photoautotrophs begin to become net producers of CO2, slowly driving down the pH of the closed system as pCO2 climbs, creating carbonic acid and other organic acid products as a result. Knowing what the pH swing is each day with accurate measurements of alkalinity, the amount of borate salts, and [Ca++] in the water column will help calculate values to determine if there are issues with excessive CO2 accumulation or excessive buffer levels with respect to your [Ca++] in the water column.


Of course, the ability to give accurate assessments will depend on the quality of the data, and the accuracy of the test kits...

Would you remind us how you're measuring your pH in the system, and whawt brand kits you're using for the eval of [Ca++] and alkalinity concentrations???
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i am measuring the pH by use of an aquarium parmeceutical brand test kit. one part solution color coded corresponding to pH.
 

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I would not make too many major changes in your system using the results from this kit, as the results will vary from test to test on the same sample. It would behoove you to get a good pH meter and calibrate it on a regular basis (I personally prefer Pinpoints for the aquarium hobby), and just leave the probe immersed in the sump all the time.


How is the system doing now, and do you see any specimens that are not doing well? What is your [Ca++] and [alk] currently?
 

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chandlerchris said:
ok the alk test of the fesh batch of IO and RO was like 5-6 DKh. i\i am assuming my test kit is crap...
Good assumption, get a Salifert kit for both Calcium and alkalinity, and a good pH probe would be a goal as well. I would suggest that you do large percentage water changes each week for several weeks in a row. That will do your system more good than anything else at this point, especially in the absence of reliable test results. Take advantage of the water changes to siphon the rock and the bottoms to remove detrital mulm, and carefully match salinities and temps when replacing the ASW with 24 hour old fresh ASW.


HTH
 
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