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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So Ive been having some problems with my 28 Nano HQI ive had tank up and running for about 8 Months now. Not my first tank just not an expert. So last week I looked at my tank about mid day and theres long stringy algae covering the glass, sand, its smothering my birds nest coral and i cant get rid of it. I only use RO for WCs. My Birdsnest is turing white on all the tips i think its where the algae is covering it. i brush it off w/ a T baster everytime i see it. I got a Frogspawn and a 3 head torch coral about two weeks ago and they just dont seem healthy they open but like 1/3 when i got them at the LFS I dont know if its from the Algae or what Any Advice would be helpfull (sry for the long post and im gonna post water perams tom when i test them)
 

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If you have significant algae issues you have excess phosphate issues, that will fuel algae growth and can lead to reduced growth or die off in SPS corals
 

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Doug tells the truth, LOL! Although it sounds very simplistic, 95%+ of all algae problems can be attributed to excess nutrients...the cure is to employ methods to limit the introduction of nutrients as well as methods for nutrient removal...the first things I generally ask/recommend are foods, water changes, and other waste removal practices...in the food department, overfeeding can be a biggie...beyond that using high quality foods can help...many of the frozen foods available have less Phos in them as compared to flakes and pellets...thawing and rinsing frozen foods can also help...water changes can be as simple as doing more of them and larger amounts to help dilute/remove nutrients to get things in check...other waste removal can be skimmers, macro algae (either grown in a fuge type setup or an ATS) and various types of chemical filter medias like GFO and ion exchange resins...in the end it's all about finding a balance between the food/nutrients your adding vs. what you and your system can export.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I believe you can see it on these pics lights only been on for an hour and it gets worse as the day goes on. Right now i am running Chemi-Pure and Purigen in the back i got a 1/3 hp jbj artica chiller w/ like 500 gph coming back into the tank so low flow isnt a problem i did a water change 3 days ago 20% wc
 

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yea is a nasty algae but not hard to remove....do a series of water changes and what kind of filtration are you running along with what your system spec are you may need more water flow or to do a better job of cleaning
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
In the back im running filter floss w/ chemipure and purigen there is almost 2 much flow in my tank i have a 1/3 hp chiller return going into the tank thats about 500 gph. everytime i do a waterchange i stir it all up and siphon as much as i can the tank has been fine for 8 months then this just comes out of no where i only have 3 fish goby blenny clown i feed bi-weekly (i dont think i feed them enough but there all still alive) ive been doing waterchanges every 3-4 days 20% everytime im just puzzled isnt dino the one you cant get rid off? or am i mixing it up with another Just tested Nitrates its at 0ppm im using the master reef test kit but the increments of the test are a little spaced out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So i guess im going to try to exterminate this all at once... i did a 20% water change today added phosguard rinsed my chemipure and purigen real good replaced filter floss raised my ph to 8.4 and i am going to do a blackout for atleast 48 hours. then on day 3 1 hour of light day 4 2 hours of light etc till its back to normal how often do you think i would need to raise PH (or how often does it go away) I am using the Seachems Reef Buffer and thank you for all the input i appreciate it!!!:rotflmao:
 

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I had an issue with this stuff too.... i believe the lamen turm is brown hair algae if i am not mistaken.... took me about 2 weeks to get rid of it... i turned my lights down to 6 hours on main dt i did 5 gal water changes every day but i siphoned the 5 gal from the DT and sucked off all of the algae i could, and poured the new salt mix into the sump and then fire pumps back up, meantime i added a filter sock and added a hole bunch more cheato and razor leaf to my fuge and upped the flow a little bit and left my fuge light on for 24 hours for couple of weeks (helps keep ph up since dt lights are down to 6 hours) the only down side i had was i got a little cyano in the fuge, but i was able to prune that off.... (i think that was from 24 hour fuge light, but i ain't sure,) i ain't no pro but that what i did to get rid of it.
 

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Turning the lights out for a few days does nothing to remove the nutrients that cause algae growth. When the lights come back on, the algae will come back.

Reading over your posts, you need to first address your topoff and waterchange water source. RO, which you mentioned using in your first post is not RO/DI. Do you have your own RO/DI unit or are you buying water?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes i have a RO/Di Unit and thats all i use for top offs waterchanges etc im just confused with thus stuff all the different websites are saying differnt things one says not to do waterchange cause they eat the stuff from the salt mix others say everyday i just dunno exactly what to do i dont overfeed i dose oysterfeast once a week i stopped doing that tho when i got this stuff. I have a good amount of flow in the tank no dead spots. I (and my corals) just want this stuff gone its so annoying... Another question i Always see me cleaner shrimp like picking at the tips that are white on my birdsnest coral but only when the lights are out... seems wierd nothing else just the BN
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
there is just so much contradiction between everything im reading water change no water change lights no lights etc i just need a solid answer so i can rid myself of this stubborn algae thx for all your help!! :biga:
 
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