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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Decided to redo a nano build I had. Nothing was wrong with the prior tank, but I wanted to do things differently.

My Nano before I pulled the coral and rock and put in my main tank.


As you can see everything was just....there. I hated seeing a heater, skimmer and thermometer in the tank so i decided to build a stand and use a sump. Unfortunately, this tank is not reef ready and it's tempered glass...no drilling. So I have to come up with a low-profile overflow system.

Gathered the things i figured I would need to get the tank started.


The smaller tank will be my sump...have to do some modifications, but all in good time. Have a little Eheim 600 l/h pump i will use for a return pump and a Mame Design glass skimmer....awesome little skimmer.

The Eheim drain and return pipes are for an idea I had to create a drain and return system...will go into that later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The Stand...

So in order to get this going, have to start from the beginning...the stand.

The stand will have to be slightly larger than the tank, so I can get the sump in underneath it and still have room to drop my drain and return down through to the sump below.

Started with the top and base...


Primary and secondary supports cut...


Supports screwed in...Will glue in the secondary supports in as well for this to help remove wobble...


Hammered in, and locked down on all sides.


Wrapped the frame with half-inch plywood.


And inserted a few elevated studs to create a shelf for the sump to sit on in order to reduce head distance for the pump.



Will insert a shelf for the sump and the power tomorrow...or when I get to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got started on a shelf for the inside of the stand. Used the studs I had already placed to support a two 2x4 base with a 2x4 top. Used all 2x4 simply to be safe because water is just heavy.

Here is the shelf installed. I assembled it in the stand and made sure it could not be removed to avoid accidental slips or shifts. The shelf can flip up or slide upwards, but that's it.


Moving on to power. Usually, i would use a modular power system and embed it on the side of the stand, but seeing as this is just a nano stand it really does not need that kind of intricacy. Below is what I normally use...(that is my main stand)...

But I digress...On with the the current build.

Anyway, I used two power strips that I mounted to the frame of the stand on the back side. The one on the right is just a normal power strip. The one on the left has a timer built in.


The APC power strip up close...it's a handy piece of equipment. Will keep the settings even if you lose power.


Power strips being mounted. I offset one of the secondary support in the back to lower the profile of the power strips..worked really well.


Need to run it to power now. In order to just use one plug for the wall, had to cut the cords so i could get them into a J-box.


Drilled a few holes and ran the line to the base. The plan WAS to mount the j-box under my stand. Unfortunately, if you look at that J-Box, it is thicker than the 2x2 at the base...change of plans.


Backup plan enabled...re-located the j-box to the side of the stand below the shelf. There will be a moisture resistant lid on this but made sure to punch the holes out on the side and the bottom. Will fill the holes with silicon to make it all water resistant.


Box sealed. I won't seal the holes until the stand is ready for staining...


Unfortunately when I got ready to sand down the stand, i discovered i forgot to fill the counter sink holes on the top. Soooo have filled em and waiting for them to completely dry.

To be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Started cutting the molding so i could get the staining done and Murphy strikes with a shortage of molding. So Decided to start playing around with plumbing.

I will be using an Eheim drain and return pipe (seen below) to do the water transfer to and from the sump. Also will be using a 600 l/h pump as stated at the beginning of the thread.

So as you can see the drain and return is pretty simple...


The plan is to drill a hole into the drain pipe (left) about two inches down from where I want the water line in the tank. This will break siphon in the event of a power failure and only dump 2" of water into the sump. On the back side of the arch, I plan to insert a tube connector (seen below) and will attach an aqua-lifter to this in order to restart the siphon once power returns.

(Hose connector...will shorten an end and insert into return pipe for aqua-lifter)


Below is the tubing and ball valve I am using for testing. I don't think I need to go bigger on tubing and this will work fine seeing as i am going to drill holes in the stand for them to pass through. The ball valve must go, however. Ball valves suck for anything that requires more than on or off. Give me a gate valve any day.



So I have gotten the water to flow from top to bottom and back as well as maintain a stable water level. Testing done and on with the molding and staining. Woohoo....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cool man. Following along. I have a 8 gallon I'm working with. BTW how do you post that mangy pics within the post? I always hit the "manage attachments" button and I can only upload 3 at a time. I have always wondered that...
I use my facebook account to hold the pictures. Just create an album and keep it's security set to personal. When you want to insert a pic, click on the image you want to insert in your FB album, right click it and select 'copy link location' then use the insert image button on the TRT forum and past the link into the box.

Basically, this gets you unlimited free storage of your pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Definitely subscribing!! Something about nanos...working on a 5 gal fluval spec nano myself.
Fluval makes some good tanks. Was surprised to see their products here in Japan. I has originally started to build a DIY fluval style with this build, but then realized my space inside the tank would get reduced by a third at a minimum, so went with a sump instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, while putting the molding on, I discovered my front panel on the stand was about 5mm too big and have to sand the sides down to get the molding in. Been doing that the last few days. Sanding an already installed panel sucks in case you didn't know.

In other news, to add insult to injury, I will have an awesome time cleaning my main tanks sump after my dumb *** put the filter floss under the wrong hose to catch residue from the chemi-pure I had just put into my reactor. Awesome.

My saving grace is that i always ensure there is a filter pad in the sump just before the return pump. It caught the residue.

Soooo....back to sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally finished sanding down the front panel. Molding is on and any gaps filled. Once it dries, I'll start sanding.
Drilled the holes for the drain and return. Basically, i centered the tank on the top, mounted the drain and return and measured from there. I want as little as possible seen, so keeping it low profile. Looking for a really small valve to use just beneath the top of the stand to turn water flow on and off. Unfortunately, Japan is a little short on hardware and plumbing variety.




Picked up some small ringed suction cups to properly secure the drain and return and keep them from moving.


Put them in on opposite sides of the tank to measure where to drill holes for the hose.




Once the filler dries....more sanding. Once the sanding is done, I'll fill the power line holes with silicone and then start staining the exterior. I would be working with the sump at the same time, but the sawdust just gets in the way when I try to seal plexi in the sump tank, so will get the sump started once the stand is stained.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Started the sump today. Figured I'd get a 90% solution on the drain and return chambers in the sump. Took a piece of Plexi that went across the width of the tank and then cut out space to allow me to put in some planter bottoms. This will allow water out of the drain chamber and in to the return chamber.

First measure to ensure pump will fit.





Start installation. The plexi was just the right length that I did not need to tape it down since it held itself up. i prefer this method because the less I have to fiddle with it, the less it moves about. i did, however, use some wood as spacers. Keep the scrap around just for that. Even have them labeled how thick they are...




Add the divider for the two chambers.


Sealed everything except the divider bottom. My hands were too big to get to the bottom. will use a fabricated extender for the tube of epoxy but not until I am sure everything I am going to use it on is in place and ready. I can't reuse the extender, so want to do it all at once.

Also thinking of putting rails in on either side of the drain chamber to allow one of the filter's for something like a penguin filter. help catch some of the nasties before it gets to the fuge.

Still need to get the stain for the stand. Decided to go with a darker color than the one I had. Will throw up the end result once complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have had to lower my build on the priority list somewhere behind my retirement prep and my daughters school projects, but I did manage to get a few things done today.

Cut another piece of plexi to divide the fuge and "treatment" area's of the sump. Had it going good as i cut out a 9cm x 4cm water gate but had an annoying corner fragment that didn't break free...so i used my pliers to get it off and this was the result...


Yea...bad idea. So i cut a new piece and it came out fine. Used another planter bottom to create a screen which I epoxied to the wall to prevent critters from getting through (well, critters the screen could stop).



Haven't inserted it yet, i didn't have time. But I will get to it this weekend i think.

Also managed to work on my drain. First i drilled a small hole below the water line to break siphon in the event of a power failure...


Next, i grabbed my drills and started with a 5/64" bit and worked my way up to a 15/64" bit to place the hose connector into the tube.


Once I had that done, i shortened one side of the tube I will insert..


And i got my sealant and glued it in place. This will allow me to hook up an aqua-lifter and auto start the siphon.


So far, very few snags and it's been a fun build. Hoping to have the sump completed this weekend as well as the stand. All i really have to do is wait for my aqua-lifter to come in and I can fill it up and start the cycle.
 
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