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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI,
See attached my custom stand for 135 gallon tank. Can someone advise if this is workable? I want to make sure it holds
241208
135 gallon tank before I build them.

Thanks,
 

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I’m not a big fan of that cut out for (refrigerator?). You;ll lose a lot of lateral integrity. I would expect under normal operations you’ll be fine, but in the event of a quake I’d be a little concerned. If you can attach to wall studs that would be better.

Second question is room for sump. With that cutout area is there enough room for a properly sized sump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’m not a big fan of that cut out for (refrigerator?). You;ll lose a lot of lateral integrity. I would expect under normal operations you’ll be fine, but in the event of a quake I’d be a little concerned. If you can attach to wall studs that would be better.

Second question is room for sump. With that cutout area is there enough room for a properly sized sump?
Thanks for your comment. There is an existing fridge I need to place there that, why I do cut out for that. As you said, I may attach the stand to stud wall. As for sump, the sump locate in basement. All pipes connect down in basement. Currently, I have 80gallon there. I am going to upgrade to 135 gallon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I’m not a big fan of that cut out for (refrigerator?). You;ll lose a lot of lateral integrity. I would expect under normal operations you’ll be fine, but in the event of a quake I’d be a little concerned. If you can attach to wall studs that would be better.

Second question is room for sump. With that cutout area is there enough room for a properly sized sump?
All bracing, do you think 1-2x4 will work instead 2-2x4?
 

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All bracing, do you think 1-2x4 will work instead 2-2x4?

Understand about working around it. I’m also concerned about water on top of electrical things, not otherwise made for water environments. Drips loops, etc....

Define bracing. I don’t see any bracing, per se, in the drawing. For uprights I would go with 2 x 2x4 glued and screwed into “L”. Same with rails.

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Picture to illustrate the L Girder concept. WAY stronger than sandwiched together. Also helps against long term warping.

For glue use TiteBond III (water proof).

if you’d attaching to the studs, then additional bracing isn’t needed. If not, then I’d add some cross bracing.
 
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