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Discussion Starter #1
:D
this is my first big reef tank have had a 15gallon nanoreef and a 60gallon south/central american cichlid tank for bout five years

72"x24"x22" glass 125gallon w/twin overflows
60 gallon refugium/sump with chaetomorpha
g-protein skimmer rated for 150gallons
1/4 hp Artica chiller
15watt Current Usa uv sterilizer rated for 300gallons
300watt finnex titanium heater
2 36" 21w 460nm Nova actinic t5 slimpaq retrofit
1 85 gal/min Iwaki magnet drive pump from sump to tank
13.7 gal/min Iwaki magnet drive pump for chiller and uv
200lbs fiji live rock (curing):D
*got everything at once wholesale so im not sure what else im missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how long should i cure my rock for? i got it in a 60 gallon with a ghetto sump on top with an overflow with a 1 85 gal/min Iwaki magnet drive pump pumping the water up and a g-skimmer rated 150gallons on it doing 15% water changes daily
 

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I always cure the LR as if I was cycling a new tank. When there is no Am. or Ni or Na then the LR is definetly cured.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanx alot
i was thinking if i should go with a dsb or a plenum i suscribe to the bb idea but i want this tank to have a sand bed so shoot me your opinions.
and what will i need for water movement?
ive got about $400 to blow and want to get an r.o. or salt or ph meter or something to make my life a lil easier when it comes to curing tap water and testing and whatnot so whatever i can get under $400.
and for my refugium what substrate and what depth? i was thinking fiji mud year for the fuge but dont know how deep and how often to replace it i was thinking maybe half of it every year or so???

thanks for all the help. this sites helpful learning from people whove been beginners too :p
 

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RO units- Kent Maxima is what I use. works great. $183 most all online stores

PH meters- great when working. not needed though unless you like electronic toys. A regular test kit will do

Salt meter- electronic meters are great but a refractometer is more economical

Refugium- Depends on what kind of macro algae you grow. Cheato seems to be all the rage now and a substrate is not needed. No Substrate = easy cleaning

BB- Easy cleaning not so great looking

Plenum-IMO not worth the hassle. a simple BB or sand bed in a Berlin style system will accomplish the same thing.

Pumps- Lots. What kind of tank are you doing, SPS Softie or FOWLR?
 

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Is that a real eel in the middle of the tank??? More pix please!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
hahahhaah oh man thats classic. yeah lol i was watching this show on discovery channel called free diver it was cool they had alot on
Belize (if your a scuba diver its a great place to go)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
what sized sand grain should i use for a dsb setub? and is it true i shouldnt vacuum the dsb?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i just got the tank up and filled with freshwater yesterday
and i am doing the plumbing today.
still need some help on that sand depth!
 

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i would say no sand at all. :D i do not like sand. that could be a totally different thread.

if you must have sand than there are two ways of looking at it. you can either go with a shallow SB of either CC, which is easy to vacuum aggressively, but has to be done completely and regularly. aragonite is a lot harder to vacuum, but can absorb phosphates so that it give you a bit more time leeway on maintenance. it is much more difficult to siphon though. this fact leads to a probable sand replacement several years down the road.

with a BB tank you can just siphon up any detritus you see when doing a water change.

G~
 

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Discussion Starter #17
people could argue sand bed depth forever but if one was going with a dsb how deep should i go?
 

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10 to 15 cm. If you want a DSB, then you might as well get the best benefits from having it deep enough to initiate denitrification so that whatever lives in the sand can have the additional benefit of phosphate sinking and removal of nitrogen wastes.
 
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