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Red Tiger Oscars and Cichlids
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
I had my 6 right on the water, about 2" up, and you can see the PAR readings I was getting. For LPS you want closer to 100 PAR and soft corals seem to take anything you throw at them.

If I were you I would probably run 4 of the 6 tubes and have it about 6" off the water just because I don't like my lights super high.

Oh,.. and I think those strips are not moonlights. At 60W they should pack some serious punch,.. more than a single T5 tube if I had to guess.

Whiskey
I have to confess, I had an off road LED light bar kicking around the garage that I had on my old Jeep TJ. It was like the surface of the sun. For a good beer and a half I was thinking about repurposing it. I do have a 240W power supply. I passed it along to a friend with a Jeep.
 

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I have to confess, I had an off road LED light bar kicking around the garage that I had on my old Jeep TJ. It was like the surface of the sun. For a good beer and a half I was thinking about repurposing it. I do have a 240W power supply. I passed it along to a friend with a Jeep.
Awesome! I had a Cherokee I bought for $600 with a blown motor. The block was destroyed, so I picked up a new one from the junk yard and got to work building a new motor. I put on a 6" long arm lift, lockers, sliders, 35" swampers, bumpers, "clearancing" the Wheel wells.. I had so much fun with it in the Arizona desert, Moab Utah, and of course all the fun in CA. Good call on the light, that is best left for the jeeps.

Whiskey
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
There should always be a Cherokee in the group that everyone can ride home in. I had a 2006 TJ. 4.0L 3” lift with 33’s on 1 1/2” spacers and a slip yoke. Just enough to play with.
 

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There should always be a Cherokee in the group that everyone can ride home in. I had a 2006 TJ. 4.0L 3” lift with 33’s on 1 1/2” spacers and a slip yoke. Just enough to play with.
And sleep in if your campsite turns into a flash flood area!

That's exactly what I would do if I was building one again, mine was for trails only, and it was awful to drive on the street. I'm less into rock crawling these days, and more into trail running.

Whiskey
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
And sleep in if your campsite turns into a flash flood area!

That's exactly what I would do if I was building one again, mine was for trails only, and it was awful to drive on the street. I'm less into rock crawling these days, and more into trail running.

Whiskey
I am in Southern Ontario and there are no areas to off road legally. Even the illegal areas are little more than 4 or 5 acres of private land with a broken fence and a mud pit. You need to drive 4+ hours north to have any actual trails but they are nice with great rock crawling. I'd love to have 100 miles of open land to play in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Finally getting around to mixing up some salt water for the first time tonight. I am planning on cleaning out the 120. It is currently filled with fresh water. I have been concerned about the reports of bad smells during the cooking process. It would be convenient to just cook them in the 120 but a garbage can in the garage might be better. I am just concerned temperature swings out there would be a problem. It gets down to the low 60's F at night now and high of mid 80's during the day.

Here's the todays questions:

I haven't got my RO/DI unit set up yet. I can treat the tap water to remove chlorine but that isn't optimal. I will be mixing most of the 160G of water the system needs right in the empty BB tank. Can I simply use the existing fresh water? It should be relatively free of anything as I did what amounts to a 80% water change. I lowered the level to catch the cichlids easily then filled the tank with fresh water to play with my wave makers and see how the over flow handled the new 700GPH pump. I will be scrubbing the whole tank and emptying out the sump for a good clean before mixing in there.

Is the smell REALLY bad? Given the rock I have are we expecting a lot of rot? It is all dead but I can't tell how much material is on it. I would prefer to add the rock right to the tank and cook it there if it isn't expected to drive us out of the house. How important is temp swings when cooking rock?

There will be ore later, just a couple for now.
 

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You are starting with dry rock, nothing on it, the shrimp decaying won’t cause all that much of a smell. It’s when you pull live rock from tank you may get bad smell.
most people cure in tank during cycle and don’t have a problem with smell. As far as temp swing, not a big deal during this time. Water circulation is important. You don’t want the rock on bottom to go stagnant. Lack of circulation is a issue. JMO
 

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I agree with Vinnie, I've cooked rock in the past and I didn't have an issue with smell. Basically what you are doing is putting it in clean water so you can strip any built up phosphates or whatever from it. There are basically two ways to do this, you can do it in tank without sand and vacuum up whatever comes out, and it's kindof like a cycle at the same time, or there is a process where you change the water every few days for a month or two (I forget), this one a bucket is better because you don't use as much water. I just do the in tank thing these days myself. I found the longer process didn't have enough benefit to make it worth the extra labor in my case.

Regarding the RO/DI, you really want to pause and hook that up. Some tap water comes in with allot of impurities that will make your life very difficult if they get into your tank, and especially if you are trying to cook the rock you don't want the source water adding the very thing you are trying to remove. Just a small amount of coper for instance is deadly for corals and crabs, but in a freshwater tank you would never think about that.

Whiskey
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Sounds like I will spend the day tomorrow plumbing in the RO/DI. I picked up some fibreglass rod and drilled some of the rock to add structural support. I am pleased with the outcome but need to get some reef mortar to set it.
 

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What kind of drill did Ya use?
Hack
SORRY...drill BIT?
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
I used a masonry bit in a hammer drill and was real gentle letting the bit do the work. The very porous Swiss cheese type rock was actually quite hard - about like a cement block. The fingered coral piece was very soft - easier than drilling a mortar joint. Only one piece broke while I was drilling.

I also used a grinder with a cut off wheel to nip and trim for fitting. I cut the bottoms of two or three flat with it as well to make them stable on the bottom of the tank.

So far I plan to glue the pegs into one side only so i can remove or disassemble a little easier. Space is limited above my tank so lifting big pieces in is awkward.
 

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The feed line should go into the pre sediment and charcoal first then to the ro membrane then to the di and out from there. The Little block with the lines looks like it may be a back flush.
The DI is one that will need replacement from time to time. The ro membrane is the longest lasting of all of them. You will need a tds meter on the output
 

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The big white thing with 4 lines is auto shut off. The smaller white thing in line from it appears to be the reduction that controls waste water flow.
the white cylinder on top is the ro membrane canister. I would replace the ro membrane since you don’t know it’s history.
I should have the plumbing diagram for my unit that will help it is not the same as yours but it will give you an idea. The black tubing is waste water and goes out the drain. I will pm the diagram when I find it it should be on my computer desktop.
 

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here is a diagram ignore the water storage tank. and the post filter.
white thing in the line is the restrictor and and is shown in waste line from RO membrane housing.
241951
 

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that should help, the wire is for a TDS meter, the line with it is the output line
I tried Kent's website no diagrams there.
 
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