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· Hydro-Dynamic
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally underway, it's been a over a year getting here.
From selling the tank to a friend, getting it back still
unused, it's time to dust it off and BUILD.

I had the tank customized by Tenecor through fishtanksdirect.com. Was supposed to be 3/8" thick,
but my buddy when he called Tenecor about using his
2 Vortech MP40's, they cautioned against, since it's only 1/4" thick. The top is 3/8".
The top I had made with the two openings as wide as possible for ease of
maintanance, and LR size won't be an issue should I
ever find that prized piece. + a feed tube in each lid.
This keeps floating foods out of the overflow...mostly.

Filled the tank on my deck, and showed a 1/4" bow in
front centre. That's ok. I intend to use 4 Hydor Koralias.
3/8" thickness would probably not have bowed.

Table of Contents
Transfer Day 3/4/12 pg 117
Cross Stitch MP covers pg 148
Salt Mx Comparisons-pg 218
Drinking PURE WATER- pg 315
Light Program Key pg 384
Dolphin Feeding Frenzy HD pg-363
Figuring RO membrane rejection rate - pg 372
 

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· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It was actually fun making the frame. I did make one
boo boo though. I'd planned on 3 vertical supports, and built it that way. Then whilst adding the 2x6 joists, my
wife asked what I was going to do with the front...When
the gears finally began to turn, counting doors, I realized the centre support was where my 3 returns and drain plumbing would be. So Tony looks at it and says, you're already on over-kill, remove centre, bring other 2 supports in evenly. That works. Now I only have 3 doors with more
elbow room, and only have to make 3 drawers. Maybe with drawers, I won't have 5 cans of food and supplements all over the living room. Still haven't answered her question...
 

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· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cost

The cost of the frame and screws, right about $60
Dressing it up and drawers, slides,doors, hinges
and electrical will be the largest cost.

Would like to water proof/tub the interiors' bottom
Any ideas????
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Frame steps / build your own

I've never been able to draw a detailed plan,
but I've done intricate woodworking for years.
I have a plan in mind, and go with it. Putting it
on paper after the fact maybe.

The frame is 6" deeper front to back than needed
allowing for an upgraded tank in the future. 24"

The heigth gets the top of the tank at my arm pit
allowing for easier maintanance.

The ends allow for sump removal, and access.
 

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· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Been a few days, rains been daunting and Mon. was my
1st day back to work in almost 3 wks. They don't call it the
"sunshine state" for nothin! Sweet vacation!!!
The stand gets heavier each day. The bottom is in and the
sides are faced up.
I planned on being proud that it was completely screwed together
making for an easier move...should that ever happen. Also makes
re-customizing it a snap in the future.:angry: But things happen:nuts:.
Another goof. Just for the record, always have more length and width
than you need. I measured the top of the aquariums' length and built the
stand 6" deeper than necessary (future upgrade). Then when finished
with the length, all is screwed together, and low and behold...I measured the bottom of the aquarium. It sits 1/16" wider at bottom than top.
This would leave an unacceptable 1/32" hangover on ea side of a tank
with only 1/4" thick walls already. So each "end cap", horizontal face
front to back, is glued and screwed 1x6 (3/4 x 5-1/4) solid oak.
I havent found 3/8" oak plugs to cover the screw heads yet and still
working on water proffing/tubbing in the bottom. Bought 2 cans of
Plasti-Dip pour/liquid to seal the bottom when the time comes. I used the
spray vs of plasti dip on my current stand. Nice rubbery gripping seal coat.
Get a break in the rain and I'll cut the top 3/4 plywood and face the front and post more pics.
 

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"The ends allow for sump removal, and access."

great Idea!!!!!

also as for the bottom, just kalk it well, and use a few coats of oil based primer paint, then a few coats of latex, and it should hold a bit of water till you clean it up.

I have dumped a few gallons in mine while I was at work, sat in there for over 8 hours, will no ill effects...

you could always go and get a gallon of pond liner, but thats a lot more money..
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Nateman, I'd planned on caulking, priming, and ??? Well your
pond liner sounds like a great idea. I likes it. :thumbup: The Plasti-dip stuff costed about $7 for 14.5 oz. Figure 4 or 5 of them would do the trick for a
3 or 4" deep "tub". From there up stain and polyurethane.
By the way, it's been 18-19 days since I cleaned my glass off at all.
Replacing the PO4 remover before vacation was a great idea. Of course the turbos help a bit. Probably have to use a razor blade instead of a sweep. I mean it's like there's no reason to
clean the glass. Actually a w/c would be more necessary at this point.
 

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· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Please notice forethought in my design of the sump Post #1 pic #2
Lifereef customized. L to R
1. Berlin style
2. supports horizontally for bio-tower + lid
This diversity was part of my main priority.Part two was
3. an area lg enough to house submersible pumps, as well as additional prefiltering at far right
4. and bulkheads for up to 3 exterior pumps. + lid
Lids to help with evaporation should I run berlin and exterior pumps
Then there's the chemical reactors. I have 3, 2 in pic.
And the 1" skimmer return bulkhead. My 36" skimmer's a stand alone.

Hindsight
I should've had a 2" bulkhead in the the works.
One Reef Flow pump can do the job of 2 pumps
with the power draw of ONE!

That said, would it work...to Y two 1" bulkheads into a 2"
adapter. The flow should be there. Unlike adapting a single
1" up to a 2". Because my 2 Blueline pumps are too noisy for her.:grr:
 

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Hindsight
I should've had a 2" bulkhead in the the works.
One Reef Flow pump can do the job of 2 pumps
with the power draw of ONE!

That said, would it work...to Y two 1" bulkheads into a 2"
adapter. The flow should be there. Unlike adapting a single
1" up to a 2". Because my 2 Blueline pumps are too noisy for her.:grr:
2" to 2x 1" Y may work, not sure how it will affect the pressure or head, but it could work out.

so there is not time/space to drill a 2" hole?

if it was mine I would drill a 2" hole, and plug the 2x 1" until a later date when you decide you have a use for them. its hard to add more holes after the system is running...
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
2" to 2x 1" Y may work, not sure how it will affect the pressure or head, but it could work out.

so there is not time/space to drill a 2" hole?

if it was mine I would drill a 2" hole, and plug the 2x 1" until a later date when you decide you have a use for them. its hard to add more holes after the system is running...
Oh my, yes I've thought about that. I'd have to bore out one of the 1"
bulkheads. I sceeered
Modifying the prefilter area over the bulkheads not a big deal. Jeff Turcheck had in the past warned against drilling the acrylic, stating that the bit should be ground at a lesser angle, more blunt, I forget the precise angle. But that would cause the bit to cut/shave away more than to "draw" it into the acrylic too fast causing a crack. The amount of money involved in this sump, I'd rather burn out a $300 pump over several years.
The output, will be choked down, diverted here n there for UV, chem
reactors, skimmer (which is currently utilizing a Blue Line 40 HD-X 1,270 gph max...but at a 3' head---wide open and return closed down pretty good). I have 3 returns on my acrylic tank, one for a chiller I don't have.
My West Coast Aquatics 1/4 hp chiller bit the dust after 15 yrs. Sprung 3 different leaks. One rather unmendable for cost vs replacement.
1st I have to get the measurements of the pump. My tank is 60" and sump is 41" + double unions so I can remove and service pump without
a mess. If the pump were pretty silent, I could do it externally with no
size issues. Trying to keep out, as many 90* elbows as possible.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Had I not incorperated the bio tower into the design of the sump,
I would have ample space saving 5" overall, even though the tower
is 12+" square. Just a design thing on saving 5".
Originally was to be 36"
he gave me this one at same price. Shipping was a true killer on cost though.
Professionally double boxed wrapped and padded.
 

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26,774 Posts
Oh my, yes I've thought about that. I'd have to bore out one of the 1"
bulkheads. I sceeered
Modifying the prefilter area over the bulkheads not a big deal. Jeff Turcheck had in the past warned against drilling the acrylic, stating that the bit should be ground at a lesser angle, more blunt, I forget the precise angle. But that would cause the bit to cut/shave away more than to "draw" it into the acrylic too fast causing a crack. The amount of money involved in this sump, I'd rather burn out a $300 pump over several years.
The output, will be choked down, diverted here n there for UV, chem
reactors, skimmer (which is currently utilizing a Blue Line 40 HD-X 1,270 gph max...but at a 3' head---wide open and return closed down pretty good). I have 3 returns on my acrylic tank, one for a chiller I don't have.
My West Coast Aquatics 1/4 hp chiller bit the dust after 15 yrs. Sprung 3 different leaks. One rather unmendable for cost vs replacement.
1st I have to get the measurements of the pump. My tank is 60" and sump is 41" + double unions so I can remove and service pump without
a mess. If the pump were pretty silent, I could do it externally with no
size issues. Trying to keep out, as many 90* elbows as possible.
yes a wood hole saw has to be modified for use in polymer cutting. if your bit binds it will crack the material, but if your careful to keep the pressure off saw bit then you will just end up melting a hole in the plastic, not a good idea...

you need to shave the plastic away, go too fast and crack it, go to slow (or too much RPM) and just melt it.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yes a wood hole saw has to be modified for use in polymer cutting. if your bit binds it will crack the material, but if your careful to keep the pressure off saw bit then you will just end up melting a hole in the plastic, not a good idea...

you need to shave the plastic away, go too fast and crack it, go to slow (or too much RPM) and just melt it.
Now a hole saw and a bit are two different things, and a hole saw
I had actually thought would be safer. I DO have an old hand crank
drill or two. I still sceeered

Good thought on head pressure. One of those things you never know unless you try. Like i asked Jeff if i could put my Mazzei venturi in the cabinet instead of screwed into the skimmer, adding distance to the bubble froth. Well, try it and let me know he said. Just one of those
1st time things. Think I'll have water in it by July 30th?:captain:
I'm workin on it...
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is my customization a flaw? And how do I make it work?

Alright, I have the sub-floor cut and ready to instal.
Again I'm sceeered. The overflow support is a real concern.
I've started a new thread in question of this most important area.
Here's the link to that thread with CAD drawing of tank from Tenecor.
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/help-with-support-under-tank-167637.html#post1874742

I can place tank on solid sub-floor, mark and drill holes.
My God, by the time I drill holes big enough, they'll overlap.
Ok overlaps is best way to make it work?

I had planned to completely leave this area open underneath.
Plans are like rules, they're made to be changed. Still...the amount
of stock left to support is a joke when overlapped holes are made.
There will be NO LEAKS on my tank. period
:biga: ------------------------- :biga: -------------------------- :biga:
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Back to the cabinet. I abhore staining!

I have alsways taken the stance, if I want the color to
be this or that, I use this or that wood. My main 3 woods
I work with are Af. Mahogany, Oak, and Walnut.

I have at least 50 board ft of Mahogany, and here's the real
beauty of it. 75% of it, is consecutive cuts, off the same log.
A wood workers dream. The boards just get a little narrower
width with ea cut. It is planed, and drum sanded and ready to
go. Problem is, I bought it to make a $4000 grandfather clock,
and I just can't bring myself to put it under my tank. If I lose
my job, I lose my tank. If I can't work/same. So no good as a
dust collector. Pains me to go to Lowes and pay more for oak
(that needs working the ripples out of from the planer) than I paid
for my Mahogany :shocked: :eek4: It's just that the Mahogany would really
match the Amendoim hardwood floor I put down last year...crappers
 
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