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There and back again

9K views 203 replies 5 participants last post by  NFSkids 
#1 ·
So my family and I moved to a smaller place which force me to take down my 75G and setup my 40B, hence the title. Currently I will be taking this tank slower than normal. I will use all equipment and will add a few new ones. Most of my livestock are in my daughters 10G and will move them when the 40B is setup.
 
#2 ·
So here is my girls 10G tank. Most of my LPS and Zoas are doing well to an extent. The SPS is showing some STN and hopefully can recover, I might have to frag some just to save it but we shall see. Anyways here is a quick update. I will be removing the HOB in 6 days.





Enjoy.
 
#6 ·
Oh! LOL. Yeah Wasn't planning to use the light and I had no real stand for the 10G so had to makeshift everything. I already painted the back of the 40B so those wires will be gone!!! muahahahaha! On a side not just cleaned out the overflow box and will be painting it black as well, will also be doing dual return lines :D
 
#9 ·
As for what I am going to be stocking into the tank not sure. I know the benefits of BB tanks with SPS but I really want to house a jawfish and possibly a watchman + piston combo and will need sand. I am looking for about 3-5 inches of depth, I was thinking 40lbs of the really fine sand and than another 40lbs of crushed coral. Will probably do mainly LPS and Zoas but if the tank parameters do well SPS eventually. I have been eyeing the TCK Pikachu Acro:
But we shall see.
 
#10 ·
I wouldn't do Oolite sand with SPS, the PHs will scatter it wildly wouldn't it?
CC on top would be ok till you began maintenance. Then it would blend
and you'd be siphoning as much sand as detritus.

That's a gorgeous acro for sure.
 
#11 ·
So you recommend straight CC? I thought Oolite will get heavy eventually after it gets "settled" in if that isn't the case thanks for the heads up! Yes that is a gorgeous acro and my daughter wants one but that cost $150 o.o

Here is a pic of the 40B:
 
#13 ·
So you recommend straight CC? I thought Oolite will get heavy eventually after it gets "settled" in if that isn't the case thanks for the heads up!
I don't know what to recommend since you know your end goals
and will be researching your livestock and making the tank to suite those goals.
I just know fine sand and SPS turn over rates, and fine sand and siphoning
just don't get it. When blending substrates, it will blend and mix up.
The sand will settle yes, but the two will mix it up also with a good portion
of sand available to get picked up by the PHs and scattered about.
Immagine siphoning the substrate, the sand will suck up 1st and higher
in the siphon, the detritus is similar and will be removed with the sand, then the heavier particles will drop back down.
Then lighter stuff will settle back down
as you try not to siphon too much fine sand, depositing the similar detritus
back on top of the CC. PHs will scatter what they will, and settlement will begin to recur. In the meantime,
since detritus and fine sand are similar, detritus should begin to gain popularity in the mix. If you do not siphon the sand
it will congeal, solidifying like concrete with detritus. Been there done that one.

I personally like the Special Grade CaribSea Arag Alive, but there's many options.

If you like burrowing fish and stars, research that for your substrate
then consider your reef above and see if this is a good match or not.
Best to research the system as a whole 1st before the initial buy for
substrate and water turnover rates.
I'm not sure a sand sifting star would do any good with large particles.
I would start a thread if I were you about sand particle size and
the goals of your tank including equipment and maintenance
"Sand size vs Flow Rate" or "Sand size and SPS coral and Burrowers"
I would like to see G's ideas on this.
 
#20 ·
I love the BB look and liked it when I tried it with the 75 but to get my wife on board with having a tank is have a hobby with both kids, I have to compromise and get the livestock they would like. My daughter's favorite by far besides "nemo" and "dori" is the yellow watchman goby which I will get in this build.
 
#23 ·
So my LFS will sell my 75G for me and more than likely will get sold and the money will go to getting a new hammer or torch colony from him on top of a beautiful SPS acropora o.o

Anyways I went him and decided to paint external overflow black, Krylon Fusion is reef proof right? Please say it is XD I remember reading somewhere that it was hopefully it is. Now planning the returning, do they make PVC with Y splitters or just the T?
 
#25 ·
So my LFS will sell my 75G for me and more than likely will get sold and the money will go to getting a new hammer or torch colony from him on top of a beautiful SPS acropora o.o

Anyways I went him and decided to paint external overflow black, Krylon Fusion is reef proof right? Please say it is XD I remember reading somewhere that it was hopefully it is. Now planning the returning, do they make PVC with Y splitters or just the T?
Krylon fusion is reef safe. It does not however stand up to cleaning or urchins.
PVC wyes
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Fittings-Wyes-TrueWye

http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/fittings/schedule-40-pvc/wyes.html
 
#27 ·
I used acrylic safe algae pad to swipe Ca deposits, coraline birth, algae
and what not from my surfaces in my tank. All parts that were white PVC
that had been sprayed with this paint, black, became white again.
Maybe it would help to sand the surface and remove the shine of the plastic
for better adhesion.
 
#29 ·
So looking at returns, since I am going to run dual returns, will my original return pump work its around 500GPH but it was dial down to the lowest setting so not really sure. My overflow box is rated for 600GPH or something like that and my return always ran dry if it wasn't at the lowest setting.

So should I see how it works at a higher setting and/or just get a higher rated pump?
 
#30 ·
So looking at returns, since I am going to run dual returns, will my original return pump work its around 500GPH but it was dial down to the lowest setting so not really sure. My overflow box is rated for 600GPH or something like that and my return always ran dry if it wasn't at the lowest setting.

So should I see how it works at a higher setting and/or just get a higher rated pump?
If the only difference is adding a second return to the existing
then keep with the existing pump.

If you are adding a new overflow box that can handle more flow...
specifics aren't given on the current and new set ups on this thread
so I can't really be specific. Mainly, the overflow box if it's a new addition
and the return pump…is it 500GPH at the return/tank or drain (same thing) or 0' head rating?

Either way, if the drain isn't keeping up with the return, then throttle down the return.
 
#31 ·
Here is the pump info:

Rated Voltage: 110-120v/60Hz
Output Power: 45 Watts
Max water lift:7.3ft(2.2m)
Flow Rate: 2100 L/H (550gph)
13mm, 19mmTwo size Outlet Connection Included
Removable Filter For Easy Cleaning
Electric submersible water pump

While the Overflow is 600GPH. So it is odd that the overflow cant keep up with pump at its lowest.

I am a bit inpatient and might use my previous sump but I would need to resilicone it, how do I remove the old silicone glue on it?
 
#32 ·
Here is the pump info:

Rated Voltage: 110-120v/60Hz
Output Power: 45 Watts
Max water lift:7.3ft(2.2m)
Flow Rate: 2100 L/H (550gph)
13mm, 19mmTwo size Outlet Connection Included
Removable Filter For Easy Cleaning
Electric submersible water pump

While the Overflow is 600GPH. So it is odd that the overflow cant keep up with pump at its lowest.

I am a bit inpatient and might use my previous sump but I would need to resilicone it, how do I remove the old silicone glue on it?
So this IS an existing, not new overflow. I cannot figure out why
the pump area would run dry other than improperly, if any, placed baffles.
Could that be an idea, I really don't know. A bigger pump would not fix the problem
I don't think.

I would remove silicone with a razor scraper, then finish up with acetone
followed by a good scrubbing with Dawn detergent oil free, scent free soap
and thorough rinsing. Any acetone that touches good unremoved silicone
including splatter, over run, and cleaning off will compromise that silicone.
Ruined my windshield wipers after washing windshield after I got the bugs off.
I did however use acetone on about 50% of my 2013 Tundra as it parks
under a tree that ants love, with no issues except the rubber strip on top
in a rain groove. Pitted it pretty bad, clear coat faired perfectly well.
 
#33 ·
Pics or video might help NFSkids. The drain is keeping up I suspect or the tank would flood eventually.
Could it be, that the returns are well below the surface, which would
cause excess free boarding in the sump, meaning the sump is actually under filled
for operating level.
Many use tupperware totes for sumps just fine, so baffles may or may not be the problem.
Certainly the lack of baffles should not be a problem unless the returns
are buried and the sump is too small.
 
#34 ·
I think I might have figured it out. When I bought the Overflow box I thought they never shipped the bulkhead with it so I bought a different bulkhead. The PVC pipe that was used it smaller than the one that came with the overflow box. So I might have been getting less than 400GPH from the overflow vs the 600GPH as stated. I actually found the bulkhead a while ago and never replaced it since I already was using the other one for a bit. Since I am redoing the whole setup I will be using the intended bulkhead which will cause me to redo the plumbing and get a new return pump (maybe)
 
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