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SpectraPure® Maxpure 40 GPD RO/DI System???

4K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  patfromnc 
#1 ·
The backbone to any system is the water we put in them. This is the ro/di unit I'm considering for my nano .... I've read reviews and most are positive.

Would like to get some feedback from you folks as well!!!
 
#2 ·
Not sure how much that one costs, but AZDesertRat
always gives a nod of approval to their refurbed 90 gpd unit @ $120
and you'll get a gallon of product twice as fast or better
http://www.spectrapure.com/St_RODI-REFURB.htm
 
#3 ·
Get the refurbed 90gpd. 40 is way to slow. Although you don't need to actually make 90 per day, you don't want to wait 5hrs for 2 gallons. I have a 20long with a 60gpd unit. I wish I went with the 90 and will probably Craigslist the 60 and upgrade.
 
#4 ·
also don't stock up on replacement resin. but do purchase it prior to needing it replaced and store in the back of your fridge.
I use the BRS colour changing nuclear resin, and it lasts for 10 months with my hard water (230ppm tds) I also make 1-2g/day for drinking
from the RO, skipping the DI. So it gets a lot of use.
 
#5 ·
okay ... it sounds like you guys are sold on the spectrpure systems. And you're right the refurbished unit is $70 cheaper than Marine Depots unit.

Sounds like I should also bump up to the 90gpd unit as well.

Major thanks for the link and advice!!! Much appreciated!!!
 
#6 ·
okay ... it sounds like you guys are sold on the spectrpure systems. And you're right the refurbished unit is $70 cheaper than Marine Depots unit.

Sounds like I should also bump up to the 90gpd unit as well.

Major thanks for the link and advice!!! Much appreciated!!!
I'm running I think 150gpd, forgot as I upgraded a "125" off ebay with
better parts from BRS with the advice of AZDesertRat. Takes me in the summer about 8 mins/gal, and now I'm at 11 mins/gal. The colder the longer it takes. I think you'll be happier with a faster production rate.
Also, check out the video on BRS site on how to replace the DI resin.
Simple, straight fwd, but very informative. You want to pack it as tight as you can, unlike a tumbling reactor of bio pellets or live sand reactor
which needs to be loosely packed and tumble.


check out their how to videos, may help with setup too
 
#7 ·
We have something close to that. The good thing is that there are no floods. I think we have a 35 and it takes a full day to fill our hefty brute on wheels.

Other than that no complaints. We paid for what we have.
 
#11 ·
Send the flush valve kit back, they would have included it if it did anything other than give you a warm fuzzy feeling. They have no proven value.
If you want to do some good, install a DI bypass valve, very different from the "flush kits", and it actually has some value since it flushes the TDS creep water out before it hits your DI resin. The flush kits only flush the waste side of the membrane not the treated side and thats only in therory, really they don't increase the volume of the velocity enough to scour the membrane so do nothing except lighten your wallet. You will want a handheld TDS meter if you don't already have one so apply that money towards a meter.
 
#12 ·
az how do you do that flush thing , I had to get a new unit mine got left in texas and needed new filters anyway so was just cheaper to get a new one, ive only made 10 gallons so far and want to keep it working good
 
#13 ·
Install a 1/4" john guest style tee, short piece of 1/4" tubing and a ball valve between the RO membrane and the DI canister. Each time you make water, flush the initial couple of ounces of TDS creep water out that valve before closing it andsending the RO waster on to the DI filter. This helps extend the life of the DI resin.
Spectrapure now offers automatic versions of this flush system for those who make water autiomatically like with a ATO, float valve or float switches and solenoid valve too.

TDS creep is common with all membranes. Each time you shut the system off, the tap water on the untreatedside of the membrane osmoses or is pulled to the treated side by the lower TDS, more agressive RO water trying to get back to its natuural "dirty" state. It has been stripped of most of its ions and does not like that. "Flush Kits" that you see on the market only bypass the flow restrictor which is in the waste line and does nothing for this so are a waste of money in 99.9% of all situations.
 
#15 ·
Yes. That valve can serev several purposes, one is as you say for obtaining RO only water for drinking etc., another is for flushing out TDS creep and a third is a place to test the RO only TDS when troubleshooting the system and calculating your rejection rate. Many people overlook the RO only TDS when in fact the RO membrane does 90-98% of the work. That TDS is more important than the final RO/DI TDS since it is one of the factors in determining your DI resin lifespan. When you monitor the RO only TDS you can easily estimate and predict your DI life and replacement schedule.
 
#17 ·
Using a reef RO/DI for RO drinking water too is an easy way to justify the purchase. When I bought my first RO/DI almost 20 years ago it was a hard sell to the wife. Today we use more RO only for drinking, cooking, icemaker, pet watering etc. than we do RO/DI for the reefs. We always have bottles of RO in the frig plus she makes and sells insulated bottle covers as a side business, probably sold 2500 of them over the past 10-12 years. Stick half a bottle of RO in the freezer, pull it out and top it off with more RO, stick it in the insulated cover and it lasts almost all day even in Phoenix!
 
#19 ·
Note the placement of the tee and check valve in this drinking water kit example:
http://www.spectrapure.com/huds/4-STAGE-DWK-RODI-NAG.pdf

If you just want a sampling, flushing or RO source without adding a full drinking water kit and pressure tank you would place a ball valve where the check valve is with a piece of tubing long enough to reach a sink, jug, bottle etc.

This allows you to draw RO water before the DI filter.
 
#20 ·
This is great, thanks!

Does it matter if the ball valve is a 2 way or a right angle?

Edit: I just noticed that w/ this set up, if you have the valve open for RO water for whatever use, water still does trickle to the DI resin. Wouldn't we want it not to do that? Wouldn't you want a valve between the T and the DI resin so all RO water is run to the ball valve?
 
#23 ·
az how can i order one of them bottle covers think hubby would like for work to keep his water cool since he works outside all day and i know ga summers are bad thank if you want send me a pm with info. thanks
 
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