10-15-2005, 06:37 PM
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#3
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: WV
Posts: 79
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by webdr
ok, im entering in the build off and ive been reading a little info. From what ive read, its not advisable to run a skimmer cause you deplete the nano of vital minerals and such.
Depends on what you're keeping. IMO a skimmer is a must have, as it's easy to crash a smaller tank. Phosban, carbon, purigen, etc. certainly help, but just won't cut it. Minerals and additives are easy to add, much eaiser than phosphate and nitrates are to take out 
Ive heard that enough live rock and weekly water changes will suffice.
Now, ive not heard anything about a hang on filter like a little fluval or whatever.
Do you guys(gals) run a filter?
any of you rely strictly on the live rock for filtering?
A small hob is great when it's needed for chemical filtration. I use a little AC mini with purigen twice a week on my 10 gallon, as I have a fish bioload in it. (yasha+pistol pair). The other 5 days of the week I let it run empty.
Here's how I'm setting up my 20L as a mixed softie/LPS setup to give you an idea of what I feel is successful.
1. Fresh salt water, 5 lbs. old sand, 9 pounds Carribean base rock, 3 pounds Hatian uncured, and 6 pounds fiji uncured. Cycle in tank with normal lighting schedule and tempature, until diatoms start to receed. At this point test, and if 0 on ammonia and nitrite, change 20% of the water and go to step 2.
2. Add cleaners that you plan on KEEPING in the tank, along with a few extra turbos to eat up the cyano. When all the brown/red slime is gone, take the turbos back. No feeding of the cleanup crew, make them eat algaes and detritus. Normal 10% weekly water change during this period, and from here on out.
3. Add a way for nitrate export via chaeto. Very important in a nano, unless you like changing water. If you don't have any sump space to work with, use a hob power filter modified into a mini-fuge. I like 24/7 lighting with 6500k screw in PC's from Wally Mart, others prefer reverse photo period from main tank. Mind your water changes, and check nitrates until they stabilize, hopefully under 10 ppm. During this step is the time to add your bio-load. Any fish or large inverts should be added. If you do this now, you'll have a better idea about skimming/chemical filters for the next step.
4. Once your nitrates stabilize, decide if you will need more nutrient export. If so, throw a skimmer into the mix. Now is also the time to start monitoring alk and cal. If you need to dose, kalk dripping is king in a nano. Of course a reactor is better, but it's overkill if you don't have the equipment on hand. Most trace elements will be fine with the 10% water changes. Soon you should have coraline growing, and you're ready for corals.
I know there are a million other ways to go about it, this is just what has worked for me. Good luck!
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