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Old 05-22-2008, 12:56 PM   #16
Richard938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneDummHikk View Post
You said the tank would be here Tuesday? If so, I wouldn't add any fish to it at all (corals either) until at least July 1. Give it that long to go through the cycle process, possibly longer. After that, start with the cleaners. You can have one, possibly two (depending on the fish) in a 12G tank. I have a 12G nano (not a JBJ though) and added too much too fast (It is all dobejazz's fault - she didn't stop me) and it nuked my tank friday night. This time, there won't be anything live in it until July at the earliest.

As you said, go slow, be patient, and enjoy the tank.
Thats purty much my plan , let the tank cycle for 6 weeks or so then start with a cleaner crew and go from there.


what do you mean by "nuked" ?
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:17 PM   #17
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Okay, went to the LFS (not so local)today and picked up salt, a test kit and a hydrometer, also got some live sand.
is there anything I'm missing?

also the guy at the shop told me that I only needed a Nitrite kit and he talked me out of the Master Kit. He said that I would probably not even get an ammonia spike,,, can this be right?
I'm not sure what to think now.
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Old 05-22-2008, 06:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard938 View Post
Okay, went to the LFS (not so local)today and picked up salt, a test kit and a hydrometer, also got some live sand.
is there anything I'm missing?

also the guy at the shop told me that I only needed a Nitrite kit and he talked me out of the Master Kit. He said that I would probably not even get an ammonia spike,,, can this be right?
I'm not sure what to think now.
Nah you are pretty much gonna need the master kit and then some. Here are the tests you need to get you through the cycle. Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. after the cycle is up you will want ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, alk, ca, mag and anything else you wanna test for. I'm not trying to bash on anyone but it seems to me that the guy at the LFS is a bonehead. I work at an lfs also here in redmond, or and we have to convince people that they will need the whole kit. I don't understand what's going on with store owners nowadays.
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Old 05-22-2008, 06:12 PM   #19
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It's funny because I had the Master kit ($54.99)in my hand and he ("the bonehead")came right over to me and told me I didn't need it and sold me just a Nitrite test($7.99)


darn it, I new I should have just got the Master kit
but the thought of saving over forty bucks got the best of me. well, it's too far for me to drive back anytime soon so I'll just have to start the cycle without it, Maybe I'll order one online
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:51 PM   #20
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Thats purty much my plan , let the tank cycle for 6 weeks or so then start with a cleaner crew and go from there.


what do you mean by "nuked" ?
I had a clownfish die in the tank and it was in the tank for almost 36 hours before I got it out. It was a disaster. It killed a lot of what was in the tank. Zooanthids, Button polyps, some other things. The only thing good that came out of it was that it killed every bristleworm in the tank.
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:59 PM   #21
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If you are willing to add water and rock then let the tank sit for 6-8 weeks you won't really "need" the amonia and nitrite kits. for most people with a new tank thats tough to do so they prefer to moniter the ammonia, nitrite and trate to see where the tank is in the cycle - My 1st tank I tested weekly if not more often the 2nd tank set it up and ran it for 2 months - and to this day have never tested ammonia or nitrite in it.
You will need a calcium test, alkalinity and also a PH test/monitor though
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Old 05-22-2008, 08:10 PM   #22
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Okay, went to the LFS (not so local)today and picked up salt, a test kit and a hydrometer, also got some live sand.
is there anything I'm missing?
Order you a refractometer. The one I have was about 30 dollars shipped to my door. It is a lot more accurate than a hydrometer is (although the refractometer has to be calibrated periodically). Every hydrometer I tried before buying my refractometer would give me different readings on the same tank within 2 minutes of each other.
Dip.
Read.
Rinse.
Dip.
Read.

Different readings. All the ones I have had are now occupying space in a recycling plant somewhere.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard938 View Post
also the guy at the shop told me that I only needed a Nitrite kit and he talked me out of the Master Kit. He said that I would probably not even get an ammonia spike,,, can this be right?
I'm not sure what to think now.
You will see ammonia during the cycle. After the cycle, you will very seldom see an ammonia spike unless you have something die or you add more fish/inverts. You can cycle the tank without testing for ammonia or nitrates. The ammonia levels will go up, then come down to 0 as the bacteria gets established that converts ammonia to nitrite. The nitrite levls will start up as the ammonia levels come down. The nitrate levels will start up and the nitrite level will go down to 0. So, when you start seeing nitrate levels going up, you know it is getting to the end. You will see a diatom bloom as well.

So yes, you can cycle a tank with just a nitrate test kit.

After the cycle, you will see ammonia spikes when you have something die or if you add inhabitants and increase the bioload of the tank. When it happens, you will go through a mini cycle (depending on the level of ammonia added). About the only thing testing for ammonia on an established tank does is give you practice testing.
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Old 05-22-2008, 08:13 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Richard938 View Post
It's funny because I had the Master kit ($54.99)in my hand and he ("the bonehead")came right over to me and told me I didn't need it and sold me just a Nitrite test($7.99)
He was a smart bonehead

Quote:
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darn it, I new I should have just got the Master kit
Are you referring to a SW Master Kit or a Reef Tank Master Kit? API sells both. The Reef Master kit is one you would want, the SW kit all you need out of it is the Nitrite and pH test. And if you have a PH probe, you don't even need that test.

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but the thought of saving over forty bucks got the best of me. well, it's too far for me to drive back anytime soon so I'll just have to start the cycle without it, Maybe I'll order one online
Save the money
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Old 05-22-2008, 08:37 PM   #24
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The idea behind the lfs telling you that you only need nitrite testing supplies is not completely without merit. If all you had was a nitrite test then you can tell when cycle is complete...not monitor each stage. The bad thing is you wont be able to use this test for about two weeks into the cycling period. Typically, the ammonia will go up initially and then nitrites will start to increase while the ammonia levels drop. Finally, nitrites will also fall and nitrates will increase. Nitrosomonas is a bacteria associated with ammonia to nitrite, and Nitrobacter is the bacteria associated with nitrite to nitrate. So with this test you can determine when these two strains of bacteria have colonized in number. To hasten this process turn up the temp of the tank to 82-84 as this will allow bacteria to colonize faster. One point in closing is that nitrate tests are inaccurate while nitrite is testing over 0 ppm. You will get a false read of combined total nitrogen or different ionic properties than nitrate alone.The only downfall with cycling an empty tank is that you will have to manually feed the colonizing bacterium. There are fishless cycing methods however I have always used a single Damsel. These are extremely hardy fish and are still alive in my tank 3 years after the cycle. Good luck Wade
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:37 PM   #25
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Ok, Ok, so just to be on the safe side I ordered the Master Reef testing Kit,a magnesium test kit, A refractometer(good call Randy),a Digital Thermometer and a heater.

I still plan on taking 6 weeks or so to let this tank cycle,
But I think it will be fun to test the water as I go.

Thanks for all the input guys/gals
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:55 PM   #26
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I'm the kind of guy who can't just let the tank sit and cycle. I have to be testing it or something. Sitting on my hands is soooo hard.
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:18 AM   #27
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Okay,
I got my LR and it had a hitchhiker on it, it's what looks like a small hermit crab will he be okay during the cycle?
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:42 AM   #28
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One more thing,,,
does anyone have an opinion about the use of Chemi-pure in a reef tank?
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:57 AM   #29
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I've heard good things about chemi pure. It's like carbon on steroids. Several people who come in the fish store where I work use it and love it. Most people use the chemipure elite which has a phosphate remover also.
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Old 05-28-2008, 12:06 PM   #30
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Hello!

Just saw this thread...don't know if it will be of any help, but my Daughter has a JBJ 12G...here is her/our build thread:

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f2...hlight=mustang
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Tags
algae bloom , algae blooms , banded shrimp , bio balls , button polyp , button polyps , calcium test , coral banded , coral banded shrimp , coral polyps , diatom bloom , frogspawn coral , hermit crab , jbj nano , kent marine , magnesium test kit , nano reef , ocellaris clown , phosphate remover , polyp rock , soft corals , yellow polyp



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