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Old 10-30-2006, 02:58 PM   #16
Wiskey
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Geez, thats a mess, I would hate to be that far from my tank for reasons like that. One option, if you are already making a internal overflow box is to add a 10G sump, this would keep the micro bubbles down below, alow you to hide your heater, and give you some extra volume. You can do this simply by adding a HOB overflow W/ an aqualifter, or better yet drill the tank, add acrilic baffles in the sump and your good to go. You could even throw some Cheto in it and add a light!

Fire fish rock, I love them, but they always look so delicate to me. I don't know about allot of good fish for a nano though, sorry.

Your links to the pictures don't work

Whiskey
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:34 PM   #17
Fish'InMN
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I guess I should update this...

I decided to add a sump, though I will be using a 5g bucket, rather than a tank, all inside of a cabinet that I am in the process of making right now. Link, Link, Link! (Pardon the plumbing...) I decided to use MDF because it is a lot cheaper, easier to cut, and I'll be coating everything in 3 coats of polyurethane or poly-acrylic anyways. I guess a few more links wouldn't hurt.

The reason behind the 5g bucket over a 10g tank is simple, water change simplicity. To do a water change all I have to do is turn off the pump and skimmer, wait for both to drain, switch the 'old' bucket with a 'new' bucket full of an equal amount of NSW, put pump & skimmer in 'new' bucket, turn on pump and skimmer! This should allow my family to do water changes much quicker and with less hassle than before. Good bye tasting saltwater!

This means the Mag3 will be used as a return, which will reduce the flow down to about 250gph, before being split to two LocLine nozzles. This should be about perfect for a 15g nano!

Still haven't decided on a "Nemo" replacement, not even leaning one way or another.


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bubble algae , closed loop system , flow box , hob overflow , micro bubbles
 
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