Sump/Refugium Plans

[Urabggr]

Well after a long discussion in the general discussion forum, and a large amount of research, I finally made my desicion to do a very simple DIY S/R. Since I don't want to mess with any kind of bio-ball (wet/dry i think is the right term...) set-up, I decided to just get a (few) canister/ power filter(s) that I will hook up to the S/R for added filtration. Currently, I have a 30g reef setup, but in about six months, I will be upgrading and moving everything to a 75. The reason I want to use a canister/power filter with the S/R is that I've been using those kind of filters (well mostly the power filters) for a while and have been very happy with them. Any opinions on the plans are welcome, and some advice on things like what kind of GPH i should have, what kind of pump I should get (to push water up 3 ft back to the main tank), etc, would be greatly apreciated. Also, if anyone has any kind of design that fits my "needs" and is pretty simple, please let me know!

[wanareef]

Looks like a good plan - I would change the baffles on the filter sock side, all you need is one here, and move the other two to the return side. This is where you would want the baffles to cut down on the bubbles.

If you are set on using a pwr canister, I would do it on the same side as the filter sock- take it from the sock area and return it just before the first baffle on the other side.

That sponge - I would get rid of it - unless you will be cleaning it very often - eventually would become a nitritate factory. Same with the canister filter. If you run it for a couple of days with carbon to "polish" the water and change it then that's ok - another source for nitrates.

I use a canister and just run carbon for about 4days then change it out. It get's dirty- the floss that holds the carbon in.

[Geoff]

looks good!!

do you have enough room for the heater? might want to make sure the heater you want to use is short enough.

how much flow can the overflow handle? we need to know this before we can recommend a pump. we do not want to recommend a pump that is to powerfull.

G~

[JustDavidP]

I'd lose the sponge, filter and the sock.

As mentioned, the sponge and filter will quickly become a nitrate farm. Keep the canister filter handy for emergencies (corals sliming, death of something causing nutrient load) but don't use it regularly. The sock, while helping you catch some solids, will also need frequent cleaning and may trap and kill some micro fauna. Within weeks, your fuge will be crawling with pods, who as youngins will make their way into your display (disregard all the junk about impellor shear and death of pods...it's bunk)

Other pods, mysid and such in your display will fall through the overflow. They will get stuck in that sock and probably won't last long there. I used one in my sump for two weeks. During week one, I checked the sock daily and released hundreds of pods per check. During week 2, I checked the sock regularly but didn't release the pods. After 4 days, I had 1 sock filled with 3/4 dead and 1/4 live pods and mysid. I then pitched the sock.

The amount of detritus etc that ends up in the sump can easily be vaccumed off during water changes. That same small amount is also a very low risk for "issues" as compared to the need for the overall well being of the micro fauna in our systems.

Dave

[Urabggr]

Thanks for the imput guys, here's an updated schematic based on what you said... tell me if I missed anything. Also, I plan on getting a 600 gph overflow, and after doing some research, I'm looking to get a mag7 pump. Does that sound about right?

[Geoff]

for only 3' of head that pump is cutting it close. it should work fine, but i would put a ball valve on the outlet to be safe. you may need to back it down just a bit so that it does not outrun the overflow. according to the mag site at 3' the pump will be pushing 600gph. the closer you are to the max the louder the overflow will be also.

G~