Start of 80gal Build

wanareef · 01-18-2009, 03:41 AM

Well actually, building my 80gal tank first. Got the bug again, but this time wanted something more work-able depth wise instead of a narrow tank and from one sheet of acrylic.

Not much, still have the paper on the acrylic waiting for my bits to come in. Just have to put a 45 on the edges to brake the sharp corners off.

The dimes are 36 1/2"L x 241/2"W x 21"H has an external overflow 25"L x 5"W with 3 of those Hofer Gurgle Buster to deal with the noise. There will be a closed loop using a Sequence 3800 return via 4x 1" bulkheads in the corners feed by 2x 2" bulkheads w/4" screen somewhere on the back wall.

Will have a Lumen Bright pendant with a Phoenix 14k DE bulb and might run some URL Actinic's running on the Workhorse 7 ballast.

The shot of the overflow is from inside the tank w/ the 3 hofer gurgle busters.

OneDummHikk · 01-18-2009, 04:01 AM

Looks very nice so far. Can't wait to see more pics of it and the build process. I am assuming you will build a custom sump for it as well? Any other DIY plans for the setup?

wanareef · 01-18-2009, 04:10 AM

Thanks, the stand and sump will be diy as well as the recir dual Beckett skimmer, but I may do something more of a Deltic with dual Sedra 9000's modded of course(see attached).

I already have a kal reactor that I save from my first tank, just uses 2x PH's on a timer (see attached) and may use the calcium rector I already built of build another one but just a little bigger.

I will have several "modules" that will plug in/out for charcoal, phosban, one of those coil denitritator's, thinking so much just for an 80gal but it;s for the next upgrade that I'm build all this stuff for.

More to come

OneDummHikk · 01-18-2009, 04:41 AM

All I can say is "WOW".

I was going to post on RC but you may be able to answer a question for me. When you glue acrylic together, you have to wait 30 seconds for everything to kinda "melt" before putting them together. I have an Eclipse 12G tank that I want to make a new top for out of acrylic. The top will be cut with grooves in it for the tank to slide into. Partly to make sure I get the right alignment and partly so that the 3/8" acrylic I use on it doesn't make it too tall for the stand/canopy I have for it. I can only make the tank 1/4" taller unless I cut the tank shorter (which I don't want to do) because of the stand/canopy.
When I start to glue it together, if I simply put glue in the slots cut and then wait 30 seconds and slide the tank into the grooves, am I going to have bond issues since the tank won't have the WO on it for the 30 seconds? Or, how do you glue something like that together where you can't get to the joint to inject glue in it?

Sndwave80 · 01-18-2009, 09:52 AM

Very nice!

aquawolf · 01-18-2009, 01:26 PM

Very nice DIY work. I am looking forward to seeing you bring this one to life.

wanareef · 01-18-2009, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OneDummHikk

All I can say is "WOW".

I was going to post on RC but you may be able to answer a question for me. When you glue acrylic together, you have to wait 30 seconds for everything to kinda "melt" before putting them together. Yes and no. Sometimes you can have the two pieces fitted without "pins" and then apply the #4 weldon and you'll get a nice clean joint. I have an Eclipse 12G tank that I want to make a new top for out of acrylic. The top will be cut with grooves in it for the tank to slide into. Partly to make sure I get the right alignment and partly so that the 3/8" acrylic I use on it doesn't make it too tall for the stand/canopy I have for it. I can only make the tank 1/4" taller unless I cut the tank shorter (which I don't want to do) because of the stand/canopy.
When I start to glue it together, if I simply put glue in the slots cut and then wait 30 seconds and slide the tank into the grooves, am I going to have bond issues since the tank won't have the WO on it for the 30 seconds? Or, how do you glue something like that together where you can't get to the joint to inject glue in it?

First, test fit the piece to make sure it fits.

Second, leaving the top on and using #4 weldon and an applicator bottle w/needle apply the #4 and watch it wick thru the joint. If it stops, apply a little more, turn the tank around and apply from the other side till it meets, do the same for the other side. Make sure no air bubbles, by this time maybe 30secs have passed, place several books on the top to weigh it down, double check for gaps (dry spots) reapply the #4 if you have to. Capillary action is when you have two pieces of material close together with little or no gaps, when you apply a liquid or #4 it will follow along this gap and fill it self. Or something like that.

Then wait and go away for about an hour.

Take off the weight and see the results.

I hope I read your question correctly and answered it. If not post a pix - I'm a visual guy anyway.

OneDummHikk · 01-18-2009, 08:18 PM

To keep from hijacking this thread, I started a new one here:

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f7...ml#post1462052

Thank you.

Loverotties · 01-18-2009, 08:22 PM

WOW! is right!Nice job!

wanareef · 01-19-2009, 05:13 PM

Thanks Loverotties

Just finished my stand, just the framing though

1. from the front
2. the right side
3. The back, with the cut out for the plumbing
4. leg detail
5. part of the top (under the tank)

The stand was put together at first with screw's, then used biscuts and then found my nail gun used for rough framing to finish it up.
I will be using ply for the top and the bottom shelf's then it'll be painted to water proofing.

Finishing with oak paneling with some stile/rail door's

more to come

wanareef · 01-31-2009, 08:55 PM

Did a little more today, drilled the holes for the closed loop and return. Those big screens are 6" dia and fit into 2x 2" BH that feed the Sequence 3800 closed loop pump. The return will be in each corners thru this manifold. Or I could use this 3 way ball valve with an electric motor to spin the valve, not sure yet.

I'm working on a skimmer close and not sure which way to go, yet. Either a Deltic AP1003 w/2x Sedra 9000's with the mesh mod or a Recirculating dual Beckett w/Beckett mod. Probably will go with the Deltic clone since the pumps use less electricity than the recirulating one.

OneDummHikk · 02-01-2009, 01:18 AM

Have you seen Stugrays 5 gallon bucket skimmer on RC? Its made with an IO salt bucket but thats about the only thing DIY about that beast. Uses an Orca needlewheel pump. If not exactly, could give you some ideas on a DIY project for a skimmer.

wanareef · 02-01-2009, 01:30 AM

Randy, this is what I'm thinking of doing. Making myself one of these. Yes, it's overkill for an 80gal, but I can always take it with me. Not sure if it'll be a recirc or not. These are nice pumps and so is the Sedra 9000 NW. So many choices.

Made the cone for it already. It's a 10" to 6" cone. Body is 10" dia and the neck will be 6".

If I see something I'll print off a picture of it then I will make a drawing and reverse engineer it making dimensional drawings of it, then go for it.

OneDummHikk · 02-01-2009, 01:41 AM

Put all the fittings in it, but leave one pump off. Simply make a U tube that would connect in its place. Then when you upgraded and needed the extra capacity, its simply a matter of disconnecting the two unions, connecting a pump, and you are set to go without having to break the skimmer down to drill more holes.