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01-20-2005, 08:09 AM
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#1
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Chesterfield, England.
Posts: 323
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Stand strength
So Im thinking it may be time for a new aquarium but my financial situation being what it is, there is no way I can afford new stuff. Also my girlfriend would like it to look tasteful, rather than the black melamine covered chipboard monstrosity that I have now  .
So Im thinking maybe I can do this D.I.Y. and from the little research I have done it seems that most people build a stand frame from 2x4 (like 2 ladders joined together by verticals). Does that sound reasonable?
Im thinking of a 4'x2'x2' tank mainly for clams and LPS so its gonna be heavy, plus this is my first major carpentry job so Im a little nervous about the strength of the joints. Any hints and tips on screwing the frame together (screw size, type, number per joint, pattern etc) would be appreciated. I need to develop a little confidence before I start.
Rockster.
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01-20-2005, 08:29 AM
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#2
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Big Fishy
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Grayson, Ga
Posts: 758
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make square cuts, use 3" screws. HD sells "DeckMate" Screws. they are great. Pricey but good. if youre really unsure then throw in some wood glue or construction adhesive.
just make sure that all is square and plumb and level before you put the tank on it.
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01-20-2005, 10:01 AM
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#3
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Chesterfield, England.
Posts: 323
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Stainless steel screws?
How many screws at each joint?
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01-20-2005, 10:18 AM
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#4
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Big Fishy
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Grayson, Ga
Posts: 758
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2 screws on each 2x4, 1 top 1 bottom of each joint.
stainless is not required, but better than black or galvinized.
i reccomend taking a look here and RC to get some more ideas. Each person has their own way of building stands.
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01-20-2005, 10:31 AM
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#5
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Pretty In Pink
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: portland or
Posts: 3,178
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This is what I did for a reefer friend - http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/sh...ht=stand+kruxy
The corners are assembled into an "L" shape on all corners. This IMO is where the strength is. Two in the middle and tie it all together with cross pieces. Since your's is 4" across, you can elimate the middle piece in front, but use 2x 2x4's across the top/front of the stand just for insurance. This way you can have full access to the bottom.
good luck
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01-20-2005, 01:28 PM
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#6
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Chesterfield, England.
Posts: 323
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Wow wanareef, old school joints and glue comes into the 21st century  .
Never seen a biscuit cutter before, when making the L corners how many biscuits did you use? From the previous post you said you used a few screws, did you do this because you think the joints needed it, or just to be sure? Im just haveing trouble visualising where you put the screws.
Rockster
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01-21-2005, 06:49 AM
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#7
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Pretty In Pink
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: portland or
Posts: 3,178
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For the "L" I used 3 biscuts and wood glue, up and down the entire length. I used the biscuts on all joints except for the 3 cross pieces in the middle - too hard to assemble by myself. I think this is really simple design - but will handle any weight you put on it. Just by the corners taking most of the weight and the center uprights as well. Since it's just a static load, you don't have to worry about side to side - unless you are in Cali
And it's tied together by the top and the bottom shelf and you can sheath it in whatever wood you want. Oak, walnut, or ????
Hay - old school joints and glue comes into the 21st century - if it works why not
My other hobby is a wood butcher - have a good assortment of wood working tools - have two biscuit cutters a portable and a stationary. Really comes in handy.
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01-21-2005, 09:52 AM
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#8
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Chesterfield, England.
Posts: 323
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Appreciate the replys  Ive done a bit of carving and a bit of woodturning myself but no real joinery.
Rockster
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01-21-2005, 01:08 PM
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#9
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Big Fishy
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Grayson, Ga
Posts: 758
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now if you really want to test your abilities you could go with all mortise and tenons.
or exposed tenons with pegs!
then you could mix up the woods too! walnut and maple. or....well the stand could cost as much as a fully stocked and running reef then. but it would be cool!!!!
maybe someone will have me build them a stand like that some day...who knows!
keep us posted with your projects!
__________________
Let me build your next stand or canopy!
Contact me for more information!
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01-23-2005, 06:48 PM
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#10
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squid
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: England
Posts: 2
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The only other thing I would add is have Diagonal bracing ie at the back have a piece of wood from bottom right to top left and each side a diagonal brace going opposite ways to stop the stand twisting
Tim
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01-23-2005, 07:02 PM
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#11
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 366
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If you sheet the front and back with plywood and the cut outs in it aren't too big you won't need any additional braceing, the ply functions as the braceing.
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01-24-2005, 08:17 AM
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#12
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Pretty In Pink
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: portland or
Posts: 3,178
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Eggactly 
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01-24-2005, 12:39 PM
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#13
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Chesterfield, England.
Posts: 323
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by RobinsonFam1
now if you really want to test your abilities you could go with all mortise and tenons.
or exposed tenons with pegs!
then you could mix up the woods too! walnut and maple. or....well the stand could cost as much as a fully stocked and running reef then. but it would be cool!!!!
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Stoppit, youre scaring me
Rockster
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