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Old 09-17-2004, 03:59 AM   #31
volitansman
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I was just wondering, what do you think about using one of the little units that is just a freezer? Do you think that it would cool any better than the fridge?
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Old 09-17-2004, 10:50 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volitansman
I was just wondering, what do you think about using one of the little units that is just a freezer? Do you think that it would cool any better than the fridge?
what size is the compressor? if it is a 1/6 or 1/5 hp compressor than this would have a better chance of working. this is the size compressor i used for both of my DIY chillers.

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Old 09-28-2004, 11:54 AM   #33
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For the amount of energy that a small dorm fridge can remove from your system a small fan (or a bigger one if you allready have one) can be used. By evaporating .3 gallons a day you can cool 100 gallons by 3 degrees (assuming I am remembering the numbers correctly off the top of my head). The latent heat of evaporation is somewhere around ~2200 KJ/KG, so if you do all of the conversions, multiply by Cp of water, etc, you should get around .3 gallons. Evaporative cooling is very efficient and economical. Almost all large scale cooling system use evaporative cooling systems. Heck, look at nuclear power plants as a great example, or the cooling systems on top of any large building.

One thing about using an undersized compressor is that you are going to make it work much harder then it's normal duty cycle. Therefore, the expected lifespan of the compressor will be much shorter.
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Old 09-30-2004, 07:11 AM   #34
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makes sense. actually i already use a small fan and it works well.
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Old 09-30-2004, 04:39 PM   #35
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Flow rate


One point that has not been taken into acount is the flow rate of the water running threw the chiller, beer fridge, freezer, whatever... If your water is running full blast threw the piping, it will never cool down. It's like removing the thermostat on a car (which is actually a restrictor). Most cars will overheat because the coollant is going to fast threw the rad and not getting coolled down enough.

Also, the more piping you get into the chiller the more efective it should be, greater contact time. But then again if the compressor can't handle the load it's not better.



Bonne journée

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Old 09-30-2004, 10:31 PM   #36
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Welcome to TRT, ehh!!!



you are very correct. this gets to be a fun problem to figure out. it is difficult to find a pump that pumps water slow enough through the coils, yet can handle the head pressure that all of the coils will create. i use a mag 5 on my chiller. i think i am lucky if i am getting 150gph out of it. i have 100' of 1/2" or 3/8" (i can not remember) tubing in the water bath.

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Old 10-05-2004, 12:52 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewayz_control
One point that has not been taken into acount is the flow rate of the water running threw the chiller, beer fridge, freezer, whatever... If your water is running full blast threw the piping, it will never cool down. It's like removing the thermostat on a car (which is actually a restrictor). Most cars will overheat because the coollant is going to fast threw the rad and not getting coolled down enough.
Yes and no. The slower the flow the lower the exit temp of the water will be, but that does not mean that more energy was removed overall. The driving force for heat transfer is the difference between the temp of the water and the temp of the fridge. As the water temp approaches the temp of the fridge the rate at which energy can be removed decreases. You do not want slow flow but you also don't want so much that the pump you are using adds more heat into the system then being removed. You also have to take into account the energy used by the pump if you are trying to figure out the most "economical" solution.

Below is a basic equation for the heat transfer in a heat exchanger (I am a chemical engineer so bare with me as I get semi technical).

Q = U * A * Delta T

Q: Amount of energy moved
U: Overall heat transfer coefficient of the system (constant for said system)
A: Area of heat transfer (this is why more coils give you a bigger A, thus more Q)
Delta T: This is the temp difference between Tcold and Thot, or in our case the fridge and tank water. As Delta T approaches zero you can also see that Q approaches zero. Think about it this way, if your pump used to circulate the water through the fridge breaks, how much overall energy will be removed from the system. Answer is, none, because the water never makes it to the system. Another example, would you rather cool 1 gallon of water by 10 degrees or 15 gallons of water by 1 degree? Remember, the Q = M * Cp * Delta T so the total amount of energy removed is basically the mass times the temp difference.

And just because you home thermometer does not read a temp drop on the tank water after the chiller does not mean heat wasn't removed. The thermometers most of us use at home are not that accurate really. It might say that the exit temp is the same as the inlet temp, but really, the inlet temp might be 82.4 C and the exit may be 81.5 C but on our basic therms it reads 82 C and 82 C due.

Now I am not saying blast 2000 gph through your system, but slow flow is not the answer. One more point I should point out, if your flow is slow enough to be laminar this will greatly reduce the efficiency of your chiller and it's ability to cool your tank. Laminar and turbulent flow is determined by the Reynold's number that is based on the tubing diameter, viscosity, flow rate. We want turbulent flow (also called "well mixed") so there are no temperature gradients inside of the tubing in the chiller.
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Old 10-15-2004, 04:27 AM   #38
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Old 10-15-2004, 04:32 AM   #39
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I needed only 2 deg cooling so i took the smallest evap cooler I could get and ran a duck over the sump, seems to work, uses very little elect. and is cheep. The cooler is 24x12x16
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Old 10-15-2004, 01:12 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoHum
I needed only 2 deg cooling so i took the smallest evap cooler I could get and ran a duck over the sump, seems to work, uses very little elect. and is cheep. The cooler is 24x12x16
got any pics?

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Old 10-15-2004, 02:18 PM   #41
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Here is a couple of pics you can just see the evap cooler and the outlet over the sump. I close the unit up and turn on the air when it gets hot outside.took my tank from 82.3 to 80.3 when it was hot........jer....hohum
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