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09-13-2003, 10:44 PM
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#61
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MD.
Posts: 54
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Last
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09-14-2003, 06:29 AM
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#62
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Plankton
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 19
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G'Day brian_e,
I have two Threaded stainless rods sealed in a aluminium casing running from front to back threw the top rim with nuts and washers counter sunk into the ply for a flush finish.
My skimmer below i was impressed once i put it together.
( had no camera at the time so got pic from Aqua-Medics)
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09-14-2003, 05:34 PM
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#63
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 72
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Hey Mike how did you handle the front part where the liner and acrylic meet? also what about wrinkles in the liner? frankly I see the liner option to be a Longer term solution But Im confused on the meeting of the acrylic front and liner. Are those pics the most recent? what are your tanks specs again? thanks Adam
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09-14-2003, 06:51 PM
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#64
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MD.
Posts: 54
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Adam, instead of trying to fold the liner, you can purchase flexible rubber liners in the form of a box to fit your tank specs. I found this out after I purchased mine. The only problem with folding the liner is some of the folds might get in the way of where you want to install the bulkheads. My liner has wrinkles because of this. I did not want to cut through folds or layers in order to intstall bulkheads. If you a purchase a box liner you wont have this problem. I attatched the liner with weld-on the inside front. Where the liner meets the acrylic the liner has no tension at all.
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09-14-2003, 07:03 PM
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#65
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MD.
Posts: 54
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The blue masking tape is just a guide so I know what is visible from the outside of the tank. I scuffed the outer edges of the acrylic sheet before glueing it.. Before cutting the liner, I positioned it so it wont have any tension at the attatchent section when filled. I also followed up with a layer of silicone over the attachment.
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09-14-2003, 07:07 PM
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#66
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MD.
Posts: 54
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I just started on the plumbing
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09-14-2003, 08:00 PM
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#67
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MD.
Posts: 54
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Off the top of my head, The dimensions are 88 inches long, 40 inches wide and 48 inches tall.(i think). 2 hayward 1 hp pool pumps. I think the flow is around 80gpm on those pumps. I have one connected to a 100g rubbermaid sump with skimmer and canister filter from haward. The other is a closed loop. I wont have the uv for another couple of months(need permission from the wife)lol. I have a third pump just in case one breaks down or the flow is not strong enough. 3 400w 20k xms, 4 55w 10k pc.
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09-17-2003, 07:42 PM
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#68
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 72
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Hey Mike where did you get the liner allready Prefabd ino a Obling shape like that? also Excuse my ignorance but Weldon works for Rubber to acrylic bonding? thanks Adam
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09-17-2003, 08:32 PM
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#69
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MD.
Posts: 54
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My liner was a 20x20 45 ml thickness sheet(not pre shaped) of epdm firestone brand. It is extremely flexible. I could have purchased a 16 x 20 and it would have been large enough but I wanted a huge sheet so I wouldnt screw it up. Its also very tough and heavy. http://www.justliners.com/aboutus.htm There prices are not too bad. Im not sure if they sell the box cut liner or rectangle shape but I coud try to find out. Make sure you get epdm rubber pre- shaped liner if you are worried about wrinkles. Also, you might have some local pond and garden supply stores where you live. I tested the thinner weld-on #s on scrap acrylic and they did not adhere like 16. I used 16 and then siliconed over it . I also tried crazy glue and it works really well also. Not sure how that glue holds up in water but you could silicone over that as well. They say silicone doesnt stick to acrylic but I find if you sand the area first it works. I did not try weld-on 40 it might work better than 16. The water pressure also pushes the liner up against the acrylic to help hold it in place and form a seal. I repeat there is no tension on the attatchment when filled that is the beauty of it. If you use glass silicone will be all you need.
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09-20-2003, 07:04 PM
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#70
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MD.
Posts: 54
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I did a test fill. I still have alot of work to do. Im leaking around three bulkheads reallly slow. Im going to tighten them up and put more silicone. Hope that works.
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09-20-2003, 07:11 PM
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#71
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MD.
Posts: 54
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The top is framed with 4x4s and I have no bow at all when filled.
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09-20-2003, 07:18 PM
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#72
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MD.
Posts: 54
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1 more
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09-25-2003, 10:50 PM
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#73
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MD.
Posts: 54
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No leaks. I have good water movement but still need to shorten up the spray bar return from the sump. The tank is still clowdy from the sand and rock. The 20k xm's are not as blue in person.
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09-26-2003, 09:36 AM
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#74
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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WOW, thanks for the updates. looking good!!!
G~
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09-27-2003, 05:23 PM
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#75
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A goof
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Plymouth, MN USA
Posts: 2,923
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Looks good
One thing that I have thought about is making a plywood shell for the tank then putting acrylic on the inside of the shell. That way you would not have to have the strength issues of using thin acrylic and you would not hvae the other issues of just using plywood. I would use thick acrylic for the front of the tank.
Any thoughts?
Jon
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