noisy overflows - Page 3

fishpimp · 02-05-2006, 10:06 PM

there are two 1 inch overflows draining to a sump which i beleive is 30 or 35 gallons by the size of it!

if i open the ball valves fully the sump fills up before the pump can pump it out... if i close up one of the valves and leave the other open all the way then the sump drains faster that the overflow fills it..

so i have both ball vales closed just enough so it fills up just as quick as the pump emptys it... i will try to draw a pic and scan it so you can see what i am doing .. i will actually take some pics of what i didi that seems to work so far... but i do understand if the ball valves get cloged of the srtrainers get cloged i may get a flood.... which is why i am thinking of the float shut of valve....

Geoff · 02-06-2006, 08:56 AM

what happens if you shut off all of the pumps? sounds like your overflow pipes are to low. waiting for a diagram or pic for clearification.

G~

riri · 02-06-2006, 10:43 AM

I think your drain lines are too small. Your pump is rated at 770 gallons. Two one inch drains can't handle that much flow. When your pump is going, the drains are trying to keep up and can't, so when you turn the pump off, there's a high volume of water above the drain pipe and your sump fills up. You'll have to slow down your pump to match the speed of your overflows, or drill bigger overflows to handle the pump.

wharyat · 02-06-2006, 11:17 AM

Acutally 1 1" overflow can handle 600gph.

How much room do you have between the pack of the tank and the wall? You only need around 3.5" to fit a T. If you can't fit the fittings back behind between the bulkhead and wall, drain the tank below the bulkhead and loosen it to gain some working room, once all the fittings are as tight as possible tighten the bulkhead back up and replace the water.

Here is how it would look:

I cant remember, but they may also make a street T fitting, which would drop the room you need to less than 3"

xtopher · 02-06-2006, 01:41 PM

just out of curiosity I have the same problem, except my overflows need to handle around 2700 gph and they are 1 1/2" fittings. anyhoo couldn't you put the tee inside the tank and have it like a modified "short" stockman standpipe?

Geoff · 02-06-2006, 03:02 PM

ok, you all are not reading the whole thread are you.

lazy bums.

it will not work on the inside of the tank. the air will not be able to escape that way. what i was describing above in post #21 was a work around for not being able to slap a Tee on the back of the tank. the silly cone tube would act as the air vent for the elbow making it a Tee.

G~

xtopher · 02-06-2006, 04:32 PM

I did read the whole thread BTW

I understand your air escape idea, so the tee has to be above the water line does it not? I was thinking not really for air escape but more for just a silent overflow. I really like the durso standpipes (not stockman as originally posted. but was just wondering if they only work on vertical bulkheads or can the same idea be implemented on horizontal ones. Otherwise I have to cut the existing PVC going to the fuge. Harder than it sounds, and then wait for the pvc glue to dry and it may leak. Inside tank design much faster and easier is all. I like your idea Geoff it is just it is not really feasable in my application

Geoff · 02-06-2006, 05:49 PM

xtopher- why do you have 2700gph going through a sump?!

anywho, what causes the gurgling is the air trying to escape from the drain tube. the only way air would not be in the line is if it were a siphon. the tee becomes the new water line and a near vertical air release for the trapped air. if it were in the tank than air would still need to make that 90 bend on the outside tank. all of the air between the tank and the sump will still need to get around that bend to escape. causing gurgling.

why are you not able to drill a small hole in the top of the elbow coming out of the 1.5" bulkhead? is it just a tight fit?

G~

xtopher · 02-06-2006, 06:24 PM

there isn't really 2700 gph going through my sump that is just my return pump so the overflows need to handle that amount of water flow. The problem to the one overflow is that there is no elbow it is just spa hose directly from the tank to the fuge. the second one is hard pvc but is in a small corner and very hard to access but I could prob drill a small hole in that one but won't water creep out?

Geoff · 02-06-2006, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtopher

there isn't really 2700 gph going through my sump that is just my return pump so the overflows need to handle that amount of water flow. The problem to the one overflow is that there is no elbow it is just spa hose directly from the tank to the fuge. the second one is hard pvc but is in a small corner and very hard to access but I could prob drill a small hole in that one but won't water creep out?

do you know what your actual flow is through the sump? i plan on having 7000gph in my 125g tank. 400gph will be through the sump. the more water through a sump the louder it is going to be.

if you plug the hole with a piece of silly cone tubing than you will not get any salt creep. the tubing needs to be taller than the water line to keep it from overflowing when the power goes out.

could you post a pic of the back of the tank?

G~

xtopher · 02-06-2006, 07:11 PM

Sorry no pic my camera battery is dead maybe tomorrow thanks anyways Geoff.

xtopher · 02-06-2006, 07:12 PM

BTW how do you calculate how many gph through the sump?

Geoff · 02-06-2006, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtopher

BTW how do you calculate how many gph through the sump?

find the pump curve for the pump that you have. then figure out your head height. the distance from the pump to the return nozzle. find this point on the curve and you have the approximate volume through the sump.

what kind of pump do you have?

G~

gwaco · 02-07-2006, 05:53 PM

the best thing you could probally do is to get rid of that tiny vinyl hose you have and run larger pipes ! you have one inch bulkhead fittings hitting a barbed 90 , reducing it down to what looks to be 3/4 " i.d. hose , then opening back up too 1" in your sump , your creating too much turblence inside. on a vertical plane water will ride on the sides of a pipe not in the center ! the way you have it plumbed the water riding on the sides of the pipe come to a crashing halt by the time it reaches your sump creating alot of noise . i run over 1000 g.p.h. thru two 1" hardline drains and have barely any noise , so you can surely do it with 770 g.p.h. . if i were you i would get rid of those barbeed 90 ' s and run plumbing no smaller than 1" all the way . you may even want to use 1 1/4" pipe and use 1 1/4" to 1" reducers at your bulkhead fittings . good luck ! gary

gwaco · 02-07-2006, 06:21 PM

also lokking at your pix of the pump , you may want to change that alittle bit too . on your input side you have straight 3/4" pipe running into it , i would change the pipe size to 1" and use a reducer at the pump inlet . on the outlet side you started out with 1" and then hit that 90 elbow then the small i.d. vinyl hose . i would change this to one inch pipe and use 45's to get you vertical up the back of the tank then i would go into a one inch tee and put reducers in each side to bring too 3/4 " outlets . i'll see if i have a pic of my pump to illustrate .