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02-03-2006, 06:20 PM
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#16
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Plankton
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: boston
Posts: 16
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Barcochris
I cut a slice on each side and only left about 1/8 in between the slices so that there was mostly hole. I do not have a pic with me but I could try to take one twomorrow, I am not at home right now. What would you like to see? I will try to help as much as possible, I hate the overflow noise that I was getting also
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i would luv to see a pic of the stand pipe you made! i think i am goign to make stockman pipe custom to fit my tank i have an idea but dont know if it will work?
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02-03-2006, 06:41 PM
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#17
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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you do not need to rotate the elbow in the tank around. if you did you would lower the water level in the tank significantly. as long as the air can escape quickly it does not matter which way the elbow in the tank is facing.
G~
More by Geoff
Switchover Idea
Southdown question
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02-03-2006, 08:06 PM
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#18
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Plankton
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: boston
Posts: 16
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Geoff
you do not need to rotate the elbow in the tank around. if you did you would lower the water level in the tank significantly. as long as the air can escape quickly it does not matter which way the elbow in the tank is facing.
G~
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but if the elbow faces up like i have it now the strainer is above water so i get the glurping sound!
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02-03-2006, 08:10 PM
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#19
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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this is what the air hole in the Tee outside the tank solves. it allows air into the system. the gurgling you hear now is the air trying to escape the only way it can, through the overflow.
G~
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02-03-2006, 09:39 PM
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#20
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Plankton
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: boston
Posts: 16
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Geoff
this is what the air hole in the Tee outside the tank solves. it allows air into the system. the gurgling you hear now is the air trying to escape the only way it can, through the overflow.
G~
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so the only way i can make this work is to put the T of the back of the tank! there is no way to do it inside? i really dont want to drain and move my tank out 2 inches! i need to silence my tank now and fast!!
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02-04-2006, 05:52 AM
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#21
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by fishpimp
so the only way i can make this work is to put the T of the back of the tank! there is no way to do it inside? i really dont want to drain and move my tank out 2 inches! i need to silence my tank now and fast!!
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i think so. you can try just drilling a 1/16" hole in the elbow on the back of the tank to test. ohhh,  get some silly cone air tubing. prolly 1/4" will do. get a drill bit that is exactly the same diameter as the tubing, or a touch smaller would be better. drill a hole in the very top of the elbow going down to the sump. place the tubing in this hole. run the hose up so that it is above the water line. you can even place a small air valve on the end of the tube to control the amount of air needed for the drain.
this should work without having to do anything major to what you have.
G~
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02-04-2006, 02:41 PM
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#23
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Plankton
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: boston
Posts: 16
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i am in the process of installing ball valves and a new pipe inside the tank! i am trying figure it out!
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02-04-2006, 09:08 PM
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#24
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by fishpimp
i am in the process of installing ball valves and a new pipe inside the tank! i am trying figure it out!
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why are you trying to install ball valves in the tank? did you come up with another idea?
G~
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02-04-2006, 09:53 PM
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#25
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Plankton
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: boston
Posts: 16
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Geoff
why are you trying to install ball valves in the tank? did you come up with another idea?
G~
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me and a buddy were coming up with new ideas! i made a U with pvc elbows inside the tank ! and i installed ball valves on the hoses going down to the sump. i am still trying to set the valves so the water stays at the right level in the wet dry box
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02-04-2006, 10:03 PM
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#26
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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putting valves on a drain line is risky. if anything were to get caught in there, you would get a flood. also if it is that hard to tune than any inconsistancy in the pump will cause fluctuations in your water level.
G~
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02-04-2006, 10:46 PM
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#27
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Plankton
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: boston
Posts: 16
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you are right! so this is what i am thinking...
i have holes drilled below the water line on the pvc U i built! i can show a pic in a few min.
i am also thinking of installing a float switch to **** the pump off if the water level in the tank goes too high!
i am thinking that should cover both ends?
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02-05-2006, 06:02 AM
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#28
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Geoff
i think so. you can try just drilling a 1/16" hole in the elbow on the back of the tank to test. ohhh,  get some silly cone air tubing. prolly 1/4" will do. get a drill bit that is exactly the same diameter as the tubing, or a touch smaller would be better. drill a hole in the very top of the elbow going down to the sump. place the tubing in this hole. run the hose up so that it is above the water line. you can even place a small air valve on the end of the tube to control the amount of air needed for the drain.
this should work without having to do anything major to what you have.
G~
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i really think that this suggestion is your best bet. it is quick and easy and will behave exactly like a Durso standpipe without having to move the tank or do anything major at all.
G~
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02-05-2006, 10:16 AM
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#29
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Plankton
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: boston
Posts: 16
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Geoff
i really think that this suggestion is your best bet. it is quick and easy and will behave exactly like a Durso standpipe without having to move the tank or do anything major at all.
G~
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i did build something on that idea and the flow rate was too much for my pump...
Little Giant - 2-MDQX-SC Inline Pump
so i would need ball valves either way i do it?
have you ever used a float switch:
http://www.hawkfish.org/snailman/diytofloat.htm
or this i found on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MakeTrack=true
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02-05-2006, 11:35 AM
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#30
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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sorry, but i am not quite understanding what is going on.  the overflow can not drain more water than what the pump can return. it could return less, but never more. i guess i do not understand how the Little Giant pump can not keep up with the overflow. could your sump be to small? there is more volume in the plumbing than in the sump. this would cause a sump to go dry before the overflow can drain.
things are just not making sense to me. can you draw or post a pic of how all of your plumbing is done?
G~
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