Need help with some plans - Page 7

Geoff · 08-10-2006, 11:09 PM

how open is your stand and canopy? this is where the majority of heat will come from. the more open these are the easier it is for the heat to escape.

even pointing a large floor fan at the tank will help significantly.

it will be close. what kind of lights were you thinking about?

G~

DevilBoy · 08-11-2006, 01:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff

how open is your stand and canopy? this is where the majority of heat will come from. the more open these are the easier it is for the heat to escape.

even pointing a large floor fan at the tank will help significantly.

it will be close. what kind of lights were you thinking about?

G~

Geoff
i am going to be running 4x110w of VHO (URI bulbs) the retro i will get will either be ARO or PFO dont know yet. i like the ICs but i would need 2 ballasts for them for a dusk/dawn and them ballasts are not cheap.

The back of my canopy is completely open and so is the back of my stand besides one support bracket in the middle of the stand in back.

i was even thinking about maybe getting one of them clip on fans to go over the sump.

Geoff · 08-11-2006, 09:53 AM

clip on fans are great for increasing the evaporation, but you will need to get the humidity out of the stand to be really effective.

you do not need dusk/dawn simulation unless you like the look of it. i do it, but i do it as a ramp up for the 250w MH's. less of a sudden light hit.

G~

DevilBoy · 08-12-2006, 09:49 AM

3 90s -
i looked at them 50w ice chiller probes, the need a bulk head hole drilled in the tank to be installed and also it suggests that they are for smaller nano sized tanks.

Geoff -
how would i get the humidity out of the stand? a dehumidifer?
Yea i sorta like the look of a dusk/dawn effect. I want to run a VHO/MH combo retro in my canopy, but my canopy is only 7" high on the outside so it would be less inside, from the top of the tank, to where the lights would be mounted. I know 3 90s suggested to me about maybe putting some sort of riser around the top of the tank, to raise the canopy up higher. Along with the canopy i have issues of placing the retro fit inside. since i would like to place the retro right on the lid of the canopy so when i open it up to do maintence i do not look down and see a retro fit kit in my way and not letting me do any work inside the tank.

but i guess we will cross this bridge when it is time. maybe people will have ideas for me when i get ready to start the lighting

Geoff · 08-12-2006, 09:07 PM

could you post a pic of the inside of your canopy?

getting plenty of airflow through the stand will keep the humidity down. it is better to have several fans sucking air out of the stand than to have them blowing in. out will pull the humidity out of the stand.

G~

three90s&125sump · 08-12-2006, 09:13 PM

If you only nreed to drop the temp 1 degree 50 watts might be enough. You can drill a hole on your sump to mount it. I am not saying that it will work but some people just float frozen water bottles to cool their tanks off.

DevilBoy · 08-13-2006, 12:22 AM

if u need better pics let me know and i can take some more

Geoff · 08-13-2006, 09:27 AM

how does it open up?

i do like that long opening at the front of the canopy. that will help a lot in keeping things cool and humidity down.

G~

DevilBoy · 08-13-2006, 12:00 PM

ok here ya go....

canopy on tank....

canopy closed....

canopy open....This is what i am talking about when its open you see 2 wooden slats running the length of the canopy where the previous owner had the retro screwed in to the slats. But, as u can see once the lid is open all u will see is a view of the lighting and no access to the inside of the tank... any suggestions? thats why if i can remove them slats, and just mount the retro to lid somehow, so when i open the lid it is completely accessible. if i go with the URI bulbs i have been told by numerous people that no reflector would be needed....i would also have to remove the middle brace running the width of the canopy this would get in the way of the 48" VHO bulbs

three90s&125sump · 08-13-2006, 12:06 PM

Are you good with wood?

Any ways you can put a couple of 8 inch risers on there. Make the sides solid and use 10 inch cabinet doors from menards or HD for the front. You can swing them open any time for easy access and you can mount your lights like the other dude did.

three90s&125sump · 08-13-2006, 12:07 PM

I thought you were using MH bulbs?

DevilBoy · 08-13-2006, 01:41 PM

yes i do wanna use MH bulbs. But i can not with the canopy situation i have right now. the canopy is not deep enough at all. No i am horrible at any type of DIY work... I was also think about completely doing away with the lid, cut the slats out, and cut the middle brace that runs the width of the canopy out. and buy some type of fixture and hang it from the ceiling and lower it to the water surface. But i live in an apartment and dont know if my landlord would like that too much....

Geoff · 08-13-2006, 01:42 PM

not sure those braces are necessary. i do not have any on my canopy i made. if the corner joints are strong than you do not need those braces. you could just remove them and mount the lights directly to the top of the canopy. the biggest problem i see with this idea is when you need to dig in the tank the lights will not be shining in the tank, they will be shining at you.

it looks like the braces are just screwed in. take them out and see how solid it is.

ok, i am a little confused on the pics. in the first pic it looks like the air gap is at the front of the canopy, but in the other pics it looks like it is in the back. does the top slide?

G~

DevilBoy · 08-13-2006, 01:56 PM

yes the lid slides back then lifts up....

the back of the canopy is what is completely open not the front of it...

three90s&125sump · 08-13-2006, 03:28 PM

Got to menards and buy a piece of 8'X8"X3/4 oak for 20 bucks, a peice of 8'X2"X3/4 oak for 9 bucks and the apropriatly sized cabinet doors. just cut the peices off 8" to fit in where the tank would normally go in the canopy on either side. Then cut one peice to go in the center of the front. Use brads and elmers wood glue to secure the peices. Then cut the 2" stuff to over lap the 8" riser around the bottom so it fits around the tank and holds the conopy in place. Then put the doors on. You may need to cut some peices of the 2' stuff for either end of the doors and for the hinges to go on.

Or you could just buy a MH canopy.