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08-05-2006, 03:22 PM
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#31
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Caitlin Renee 6/29/07
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Posts: 3,168
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Well i just got back from that so called DIY store Menards. I bought the stuff. Now i am wondering if i should go with 1 1/4" outputs? the 3/4" pvc pipe is smaller then i thought. With the larger ID you would get more flow, and with a smaller ID you would get more pressure? if this is correct then wouldnt i want more flow, and go with the 1 1/4" outputs
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08-05-2006, 03:30 PM
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#32
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uber-stupid
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Biloxi, MS
Posts: 3,265
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You could do that but if you go with the eductors you would not have enough pressure to make them work on 1 1/4 pipe. You also have to remember that your tan is 4 feet long, if you don't have enough pressure comming out and driving your jet accross the tank you will have dead spots. I have 4-1/2 inch lines for my mag 18s with slight reducing flutes on them to increase velocity out of the nosals. if I take the flutes off the water flows more but there is less current.
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08-05-2006, 04:04 PM
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#33
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Caitlin Renee 6/29/07
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Posts: 3,168
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good point 3-90s. i never thought of that. But here is what i bought. I really dont think i need it all. But the stuff i dont use i will return
10' 1 1/4" PVC
10 3/4" PVC
8oz Purple Primer
10pk 3/4" 90 degree elbows
4 - 1 1/4" "T"s
2 - 1 1/4" ball valves
4 - 3/4" ball valves
2 - rolls 1/2" teflon tape
4 - 1 1/4" 45 degree elbows
10 pk 3/4" couplings
10 pk 3/4" "T"s
10 pk 3/4" 45 degree elbows
2 - 1 1/4" unions
4 - 1 1/4" to 3/4" bushings - - this is a bushing for the 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 3/4" "T"s. I could not find them, so i had to buy the reducers to put in.
Look ok?
If so, lets start plumbing.
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08-05-2006, 04:37 PM
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#34
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uber-stupid
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Biloxi, MS
Posts: 3,265
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Yeah, you know what I for got? I for got the 4-3/4inch slip X female threaded couplers to attach your loc-line to for the nozals. Oh well when you return all that stuff you can pick those up.
The first thing you need to figure out is where are you placing your pump.
Then run your 1 1/4 inch lines to and from the pump to the rear of the tank about 5 inches below the top of it in the center (long ways) of the tank. T it off and run 1-1 1/4 inch line each way. about 12 inches from the end of the tank place a T so it goes up and straight then run the 1 1/4 inch lint to about 1 inch from the end of the tank and put a 90 on it facing up put one of your bushing in the up facing side ot the first T and one in the up facing side of the 90 then run your 3/4 inch up to the top of the tank and up and over then place your slip X female threade coupler on there. do the same for each side of the tank.
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08-05-2006, 05:06 PM
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#35
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Caitlin Renee 6/29/07
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Posts: 3,168
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by three90s&125sump
Yeah, you know what I for got? I for got the 4-3/4inch slip X female threaded couplers to attach your loc-line to for the nozals. Oh well when you return all that stuff you can pick those up.
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Thats Ok. as you can tell i believe i did over buy on some things
Do i have to place my pump in the stand? my stand is small inside and the sump alone is 30" long. once i put the union, and piping from the sump to the return pump and skimmer i will pushing for room dont you think?
i do have enough room between the stand and the wall to place it behind the stand. but i would not know of how to mount the pump to floor.
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08-05-2006, 05:11 PM
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#36
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uber-stupid
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Biloxi, MS
Posts: 3,265
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My pumps actually hang from the piping under my tanks. So If you have room to put it some where else there should be no reason why you can't. One thing to concider is it needs to be easily accessed or maintenance might become an issue. I hung my pump to reduce vibrating noise. I have my mag36 hanging in my sump as well. I don't think (from what Gee-off says0 that you will have to worry about any noise from that pump.
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08-05-2006, 05:20 PM
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#37
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Caitlin Renee 6/29/07
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Posts: 3,168
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i also forgot the 3/4" FPT x 1 1/4" slip unions to come off the pump.... 
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08-05-2006, 05:21 PM
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#38
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uber-stupid
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Biloxi, MS
Posts: 3,265
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 Oops!!!
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08-05-2006, 05:28 PM
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#39
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Caitlin Renee 6/29/07
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Posts: 3,168
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by three90s&125sump
Then run your 1 1/4 inch lines to and from the pump to the rear of the tank about 5 inches below the top of it in the center (long ways) of the tank. T it off and run 1-1 1/4 inch line each way. about 12 inches from the end of the tank place a T so it goes up and straight then run the 1 1/4 inch lint to about 1 inch from the end of the tank and put a 90 on it facing up put one of your bushing in the up facing side ot the first T and one in the up facing side of the 90 then run your 3/4 inch up to the top of the tank and up and over then place your slip X female threade coupler on there. do the same for each side of the tank.
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Dont i need a ball valve somewhere between the union on my pump going up to the "T" ?
heck this is going to turn into a build thread like yours 3 90s.... lol
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08-05-2006, 05:29 PM
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#40
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.
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: bend, oregon
Posts: 11,032
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Man, if i had a dollar for every $3 gallon of gas i have spent running to home depot for one fricken fitting i forgot to buy........
I live outside of town a few miles and the only hardware stores open during non bankers hours are Lowes and Home Depot...who are of course on the outskirts of the OTHER side of town right next to each other..... 
__________________
I like to glue animals to rocks and put disturbing amounts of electricity and saltwater next to each other
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08-05-2006, 05:50 PM
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#41
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Caitlin Renee 6/29/07
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Posts: 3,168
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Fly Guy
Man, if i had a dollar for every $3 gallon of gas i have spent running to home depot for one fricken fitting i forgot to buy........
I live outside of town a few miles and the only hardware stores open during non bankers hours are Lowes and Home Depot...who are of course on the outskirts of the OTHER side of town right next to each other..... 
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lmao... i guess i am lucky Menards, is only 2 minutes from my house....
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08-05-2006, 06:09 PM
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#42
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uber-stupid
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Biloxi, MS
Posts: 3,265
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by DevilBoy
Dont i need a ball valve somewhere between the union on my pump going up to the "T" ?
heck this is going to turn into a build thread like yours 3 90s.... lol
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The ball valve goes above the union.
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08-05-2006, 06:10 PM
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#43
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uber-stupid
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Biloxi, MS
Posts: 3,265
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Oh yeah some where between the 1 1/4 inch PVC and the 3/4 inch PVC you will want to put the 3/4 inch ball valves. Prolly right after your 90s and your Ts.
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08-05-2006, 06:12 PM
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#44
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uber-stupid
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Biloxi, MS
Posts: 3,265
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OH OH OH Don't glue anything untill after you know it will work right. Do a dry run on the entire thing. Then go back and glue it all.
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08-05-2006, 06:14 PM
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#45
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Caitlin Renee 6/29/07
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Posts: 3,168
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by three90s&125sump
The ball valve goes above the union.
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thats what i thought. well i am heading to menards again to get the parts i need.
anything else besides the unions for my pump?
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