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Old 08-04-2006, 04:16 AM   #16
three90s&125sump
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If andy recomends a mag18 with his skimmer then you should use one.
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Old 08-04-2006, 10:11 AM   #17
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is that CustomSeaLife an external pump with a blue body and a black volute? if it is, you my friend have a great pump. this is also known as a Velocity pump. amazing pumps. i have 3 running on my system right now. you will never find a quieter pump on the market.

they do add heat to the system. the only drawback, but so does any submersible pump. i find the tradeoff well worth it. they are nearly indestructible and ultra quiet.

if it is a Velocity pump than i would through an eductor on the return also. lets see, i think we can have that tank up to about 5000gph of flow pretty easily.

i am not a big fan of sand. i have kept every type of sand bed in my tanks over the years, except plenum. a BB tank is by far the easiest tank to take care of. very little maintenance needed overall. with the amount of flow possible with that tank there is a good chance that you would seldom have to siphon out detritus from the main display. you could do all of your water changes from the sump alone!!

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Old 08-04-2006, 04:38 PM   #18
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i dont know if it is a velocity pump or not. I will snap a photo of it and put it up within the hour.

BB tanks just dont look athesically pleasing to me. they dont look natural. I am a big fan of some of the sand shifting animals, like the gobies.

5000GPH an hour!!!! thats like 52x turnover. I wouldnt be able to put my hand in there without it getting blowing away..... i dont think i really need that much, since i have been told i can not put a MH retro into my canopy, the inside only measures 7.5" in height. so i am stuck with a 4x110w VHO retro

I left Andy from MRC an email today about the MR2 and the flow thru rate on my 20g sump and what pumps and flow rates for the pumps i should use. I hope he will get back to me in the next few days.

So in the mean time could i go ahead and buy my PVC for the closed loop?? 1 1/4" ID correct?? should i look for SCH 40 or SCH 80 ?

i will be going from 1 1/4" to 3/4" on my 4 outputs into the main tank.
on the ball valves should i get 1 1/4" also, or look for 3/4"

Thanks guys i really appreciate your help!!! you will most likely have to walk me thru this process. Since my 46g i have i never did anything to it. but buy a CPR skimmer, and the Aqualight 2x96w PC lights. and that was it. so i am new to building my own stuff...
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Old 08-04-2006, 05:21 PM   #19
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ok here ya go. the pics of the pump. let me know what you think








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Old 08-04-2006, 05:23 PM   #20
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I would put 1 ball valve on each of your out puts so you can control them individulally. Schedule 40. You can do the MH in the canopy with 4 fans. You can make a riser for your canopy to keep them a little higher. The VHOs will work but the MH will look much better. Every thing else looks right.
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Old 08-04-2006, 05:25 PM   #21
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Hmm, 50 PSI seems pretty high to me. I think my mags are only 2 bar or 28 PSI. Not sure though.
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Old 08-04-2006, 05:53 PM   #22
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thanks 3-90s for all your help so far. but i did a google and this is what i came up with.

Velocity Titanium Pump... T2

Item #: SWACL-77820

and this item # 77820 matches the model # on my pump. and this pics look just like it. so i am thinking it is a velocity T2.

what do you mean by a riser for the canopy 3-90s?

here is my plumbing list, i plan on getting this stuff this weekend to start on the closed loop.

aprox. 8ft 1 1/4 pvc
6 1 1/4" ball valves
6 1 1/4" "T"s
few bags of 1 1/4" 90 elbows
4 90 3/4" elbows
2 unions (what size?)
aprox. 4ft of 3/4" pvc

is there anything i am missing?

Also, am i going vertically or horizontally in the tank with my intake ?
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Old 08-04-2006, 06:52 PM   #23
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10ft 1 1/4 pvc
4-3/4 ball valves
2-1 1/4 ball valves
1-1 1/4" "T"s
2-1 1/4" to (dual) 3/4" T (or equivolent)
a bag of 3/4 couplers.
a bag of 90 degree 3/4" elbows
a bag of 45 degree elbows
2-1 1/4" unions
10ft of 3/4" pvc
PVC glue
PVC primer
Thick teflon tape


You will also need the fittings to screw onto the threaded part of the pump 1 1/4" X (what ever the threaded side of the pump is)

Actually, I think Gee-Off and his eductors will rear their ugly heads after a while. So, you may want to listen to what he has to say (since you have the velocity pump already).
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Old 08-04-2006, 06:55 PM   #24
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Oh the riser... You can make a wooden insert that will match your canopy to rise your lights up higher so you can have the MHs.

I would go horizontally so you can reduce vacuum on your intake by making your intake screen as long as possible. The only reason iwould go vertical with it is if you can't possition it for easy maintenance. The vertical one would just pull straight up to remove it.
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Old 08-04-2006, 07:50 PM   #25
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what would i need the 45 degree elbows for?
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Old 08-04-2006, 08:51 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilBoy
what would i need the 45 degree elbows for?

If you use 90 degree elbows your head will increase. When ever you can get away with 2-45 degree turns you should do that.

If you go to menards you can bring back the un-used items for full refund. It is better to buy more than what you need and include any contingencies to avaiod multiple trips to the life sucking place known as menards.
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Old 08-04-2006, 10:35 PM   #27
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hey, now, no sense in telling everyone i have an ugly head.

that pump is a great pump. not quite as powerfull as the T1 or T3, but more than capable for what you want to do. the 50psi rating is what the pump can handle. in other words if you for some reason wanted to plumb it into the house plumbing it could handle it. it can not pump up to 50psi, just its seals can handle that much pressure. it can only pump up to 23'.

having made one of those style CLS, the one that is not mentioned that should be added is a drain valve. it really sucks trying to remove it to clean it without draining it first. i just added another Tee at the lowest point with a ball valve on it. that way i could break the siphon at the top then drain it with the drain. much easier to wrestle it when it is not filled with water.

you can play around with a couple of DIY eductors on the outputs to see if they do what you are looking for. i think they would do great on that setup. up your total flow easily over 1500gph.

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Old 08-04-2006, 10:48 PM   #28
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lets see, i have 7000gph in my 125g now. when i get my replacement seal for my Ampmaster wet-end that number will jump another 1500gph. then i will add some Seio's or the new super secret tiny Tunze when they come out. so i bet by the time i am done i will have over 10000gph of flow in that 125g.

it all depends on how much siphoning you want to do in the tank.

needless to say, i do not have any sand. i have also kept wrasses, cucumbers, and various other critters that supposedly need sand to survive.

i do agree that Jawfish should be kept in a DSB, but there are very few that truely need the sand to be happy. most are more than fine with a nice bolt hole to call home.

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Old 08-05-2006, 10:56 AM   #29
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[quote=three90s&125sump]10ft 1 1/4 pvc
4-3/4 ball valves
2-1 1/4 ball valves
1-1 1/4" "T"s
2-1 1/4" to (dual) 3/4" T (or equivolent)
a bag of 3/4 couplers.
a bag of 90 degree 3/4" elbows
a bag of 45 degree elbows
2-1 1/4" unions
10ft of 3/4" pvc
PVC glue
PVC primer
Thick teflon tape[/qoute]

what size 45 degree elbows? 1 1/4 or 3/4 ? Since we have found out i have the Velocity T2 pump, Should i use this pump for as my return pump or the pump for my closed loop? I am thinking for my return since that is what the previous owner was using it for.
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Old 08-05-2006, 02:04 PM   #30
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I would definatly use it for the CLS you may only need to run 2 output lines with eductors on them. You should wait for Gee-Off to post again. He is much better at this stuff then me.

45 degree elbow 3/4 inch.
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