need help!!!! drilling and plumbing

[RobinsonFam1]

i am looking for some advice on where to install 2 bulkheads in the back of a 135.

i have done some research and am now confused with all that i have learned.

basically, where do they go in relation to water height and overflow boxes?
next...how tall do i make the slots in the overflows?

last but not least....i am running a 4-mdq little giant and a 3-mdq, both have 1/2" return on them, can i split the 2 return into 4 and still have adequate pressure or will i lose all that i have now?

please help!
i plan on drilling this tank monday night so input or opinions would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks!
Brandon

[Geoff]

Wow, tough questions. there are so many different ways to do what you are asking, it can get confusing.

overflows can anything from just a hole drilled in the side so water flows out of that hole into a dursa standpipe or a full height overflow box. are you planning on building the overflow box? is this an acrylic tank? attaching acrylic to glass is not easy. you can make an overflow that covers the entire length of the tank. i think this is the way to go. it does not have to very deep into the tank. this allows the entires waters surface to be extracted.

as for flow, you will not be able to get enough flow out of an overflow for that many pumps. these pumps would be a fine choice for several CLS. this would require a fair amount of hole drilling. depending on the size of the inlets, more than one may be necessary in order to keep the suction down.

G~

[wanareef]

On my overflow, the water level sits about .5" above the bottom of the slots. The slots are about 1.25" deep and .25 wide.

hth

[RobinsonFam1]

here's my latest brain thought....

i will be putting two 1" drains in the back of the tank inside of built in overflows. (glass tank, dont know if bottom is tempered)

i will probably be putting two 1/2" bulkheads about 10" off the bottom for a closed loop for both circulation and uv light (not going reef yet as to why the uv).

i will be putting in two more 1/2" bulkheads most likely in the overflow boxes to make into spray bars for the returns.

very open to opinions and thoughts here!

let me know what you think!!!!!

yeah i know what youre thinking...8 HOLES!!!!!!!!?????

this is only getting done once so i want to make sure its right.

[tdwyatt]

Are you installing overflow boxes? if so, how many, and what diameter are you thinking of for the drains to the sump(s)? I have several opinions on this, but much will depend on whether or not you plan to use overflow boxes or not. 2 overflow boxes for the tank will handle most of the output of the two pumps you're considering if you have a 1&1/2 inch drain in the bottom of each. With durso pipes, even 1 ID drains will work if the slots are long enough (and you may need to experiment with just how deep the slots will need to be based on how much the pumps top out at whith the plumbi9ng you use to install the returns.

HTH

[tdwyatt]

duplicate post

[Geoff]

i must not be understanding something, i can only count to 6 holes not eight.

for a CLS i would prolly go with 3/4" holes. this will give more flow, so that if you want to get a bigger pump you can without seriously restricting the flow. you can always put adaptors in to make the holes smaller.

G~

[RobinsonFam1]

man Tom, youre bringing me to more questions that i have for you now.

i was planning on 2) 1" drains to the sump 1 drain in each overflow box. boxes measuring 4" front to back and 10" wide and about 6" deep. 1 in each corner. so there would be about 14" of skimming, i think would be the right way of saying it.

the durso's i am planning on would be the style with the elbow inside of the overflow box and the actual standpipe on the outside of the tank, since im not sure about the bottom glass being tempered. the only reason iam planning on boxes is so i can get some surface skimming rather than just draining

when i cut the slots in the overflows how long should the slots be in relation to the water level would i drill the for the drain lines since the durso has basically become non-adjustable?

am i thinking any of this correctly?

oh and typo,,,,yes it is 6 holes not 8
thanks everyone!
BR

[tdwyatt]

Originally posted by RobinsonFam1
i was planning on 2) 1" drains to the sump 1 drain in each overflow box. boxes measuring 4" front to back and 10" wide and about 6" deep. 1 in each corner.

...the durso's i am planning on would be the style with the elbow inside of the overflow box and the actual standpipe on the outside of the tank, since im not sure about the bottom glass being tempered...

This will make planning easier for you. Place the drain holes through the walls near the bottom of the tank inside the planned location for the overflow boxes. Drill the tank around 2 or 3 inches from the bottom in the back wall for the drains, and about 1" from the top for the returns. Make the holes big enough to accommodate 1" I.D. bulkheads for the returns, and 1&1/2 I.D. bulkheads for the drains. Install the overflows such that the top of the teeth are about 1/2" from the top rim of the aquarium. When installing the standpipes, make the first inside PVC of a 90 degree elbow with a small extension from the wall. With the upturned elbow, you can now install an internal and adjustable durso overflow. This will allow you to start with overflow slots 3/8" wide by 1" long vertically from the top edge of the overflow and spaced 3/8" apart. With the dursos installed, start the pumps and see if the water level goes over the top of all the "teeth" in the top of the overflow. If this occurs, then stop the pumps and use a zip dremel tool to increase the vertical length of the slots by 0.5 cm each, or widen each slot by 1 mm, and retest. Repeat this until the slots are long enough to perform their job without water going over the top of the overflow teeth. It would not be smart to widen the slots more than 2 mm, if this does not resolve the overflow, then go with lengthening them only for the desired effect.

The closed loop should be a no brainer.

HTH

[RobinsonFam1]

htats helps alot! thank you!

now for my last question....this should be a no brainer as well...

since i am using a 4mdq and a 3 mdq, should i do as you say with 1" bulkhead returns even though the returns on the pumps are 1/2".

im guessing i will be running all 1/2" to the bulkhead, increase to 1" then reduce again to 1/2" to maintain water pressure?

hope that made sense !?

thanks!!!!!!

BR

[tdwyatt]

Originally posted by RobinsonFam1
...i am using a 4mdq and a 3 mdq, should i do as you say with 1" bulkhead returns even though the returns on the pumps are 1/2".

im guessing i will be running all 1/2" to the bulkhead, increase to 1" then reduce again to 1/2" to maintain water pressure?

Going to a 1" diameter pipe will reduce frictional losses from running the pum through the pipe tremendously, as will reducing the number of 90 degree turns. go to 1" pipe from the pump to the last possible point, then reduce to 1/2 inch for the final delivery if necessary. Hopefully in the future you'll upgrade to a pump with a 1" or larger output from the pump. Drilling the tank for that size now will save you headaches in the future.

hth

[tdwyatt]

for example, 1&1/2" output:

[RobinsonFam1]

great!

thanks for all the help.

yes i am already looking to upgrade the pumps to 1 big one but i just happen to come across these for 20 bucks new.

BR

so far drilling is going quite well. if it breaks you will hear me cussing all the way to your place from here!

[tdwyatt]