Help! Need expert feedback on tank set-up

[bohydromb]

Hi, all I am new to this forum and in the world of the marine aquatics. I have been keeping cichlids for over a year and freshwater fish experince for a little more than 7 years. I am very successfull with breeding cichlids and all, but i recently decided that i wanted to try a marine tank. Attached is my plan of a 30 gallon tank with a 15 gallon tank sump. I need some advice as to whether my design would worlk... All sugestions and commects are appriciated. Thanks in advance.

Will

[RobinsonFam1]

yes it will work.

its hard to make out your sump design though, cant critique that. depending on the return pump size your 3X 1/2" returns may not be small enough to get good flow. think about over the top plumbing incase of power outtage so you can drill siphon holes. also think about a spray bar instead. or using the 3 return with locline so you can adjust the flow.
i have a 900 GPH pump with 4X 1/2" outlets and you cant hardley tell its on due to no pressure. i reduced the outlets even more andnow i have a jacuzzi!

[bohydromb]

RobinsonFam1, thanks for your response....Here is a better picture of the sump...(I hope)

[Loverotties]

The one thing I see is that your prob for temp is to close to heater(mite give to high of a fake temp)

[RobinsonFam1]

check your overflow in case of power outtage. it may be the drawing but you want to make sure tht if the power goes out your sump wony overflow. you can use ReefCentral's overflow/drain calculator to get started.
HTH
BR

[bohydromb]

I need somebody' oppinon about this set-up...I just wanted to know if this set up is good or bad... and also some suggestions to have the best circulation for my tank. First picture is the blueprint of where the wholes would be drilled by lfs. And the second picture is how it would look after attaching the spraybay, nozzles and strainers. Thanks in advance


will

[RobinsonFam1]

your intake to the sump...you should try to remove as much water from the surface as possible to help with skimming efficiency. that is my only suggestion, maybe you already planning on that but thats my $.02
i like this design better than your first, but that is my opinion.
i like the closed loop, the setup of it i mean. i did the same thing on my 135.

keep us all updated on your progress, and throw some pics out as well!

Good luck, keep it up!
BR

[bohydromb]

Once again thank you for your feedback RobinsonFam1.. What if I add another intake similar to the other side(see pic attached)? Whould this help in getting a better amount of suface water into the sump?? and in the sump will be using filter floss and lots of carbon. Will this sufficiently take care of the protein buildup in the tank? or would i still have to get a protein skimmer??

will

[Krux]

you should look into doing some overflow boxes insite the tank to aid in surface skimming, this will also help prevent backsiphon. with your current design, you are going to drain 4" out of your tank every time the power shuts off.

think about a skimmer, i personally wouldnt run a tank without one unless it was a very specialized tank, which begs the question, what kind of stuff do you want to have in this tank? is there a reason you are going with a 30t? if you are spending the money to get a shop to drill it, now would be the time to spend a tad bit more money and get a bigger tank to start with, it is guaranteed that you will wish you had a month after the tank is set up. the tank its self is actually one of the least expensive parts of the hobby, don't feel bad about spending an extra 50 bucks now to get something that will suit you perfectly.

[bohydromb]

Technically speaking i would really only be draining about 2" of water. This is because i will be attaching a pvc elbow and connected to that is the strainer.
Also i do not like the overflow box, because it takes up space i an already limited space that i have. I guess i would just get a protein skimmer to compensate for this.




The picture above is what i would be putting into those hole. this is a 1" bulkhead from bigal's online

To answer your question about why don't i get a bigger tank is that i do not have any place to put it in. Also, my uncle had already made the stand that can fit a 25"L x 13"W, therefore this is the biggest i can get to fit in this stand. Also, i will be placing this next to my 55gallon african cichlid tank. Placing a bigger tank than that might be asking for trouble with the support beams. I live on the second floor.

Finally, I have not really decided as to what exactly i want to keep in this tank. I was considering of doing maybe 3 different fishes, corals, a NICE clam, etc... Basically, something of everything.. I have not really refined as to what i will really be putting into this tank. I would love a nice colorfull and eye catching tank that will attract everyone that walks by this tank. Any suggestions as to what i should keep in this tank are welcome.

P.S. I have attached a picture of my 55 gallon african cichlid. Tell me what you guys think.


Thanks all,

will

[Krux]

That tank looks great!


The strainers will work well for you, you will just need to monitor them to make sure that nothing sticks to them from the suction, snails, crabs, small fishes etc.

Once you nail down a bit more what you want to keep you can figure out further equipment. A friend has a softy and zoo tank that he doesn;t run a skimmer on, they like the "dirtier" water. Sps and some of the more demanding lps want a bit more nutrient poor system, so a skimmer is a definate investment for those species.

With clams, know that you will either need to have halides, a lot of t5's, or the clam right at the top of the tank, maybe even a combination of the above if you want to be able to keep maximas and croceas. other species are tolerant of less light.

Great project, can't wait to see it come together. Post lots of pictures along the way!

[Flatfish]

Here’s my 2 cents.

I constructed my entire 100G system after fiddling with a 55G for a couple of years. There’s a lot to be known. You’ve got a good start.

This is what I get from the previous posts:

Your main tank is a 30G tall. A 15G sump. With all the drilling you’re doing is the tank and sump acrylic? I would consider the following:

* Get a bigger sump. If you’ve got the space in the stand then I’d use it to add more volume. The bigger the better when it comes to SW.
* Add a couple of baffles to the sump so the water have to flow zigzag (up and down) through it. This does two things: It creates a detritus trap. It also will eliminate bubbles coming form the sump feed or a protein skimmer.
* I’d highly recommend a protein skimmer. They are very efficient at mechanical filtration and provide aeration. Doesn’t need to be anything too fancy and they are not too hard to build. Incorporating a skimmer into your sump design will require some changes.
* Run your sump returns over the top of the tank. From your drawings your returns are drilled into the back side. This will require you to put check valves in line to prevent back flow. Check valves will work but will require quite a bit of maintenance to keep then clean. The easier route is to run the returns over the top and drill a small (like 3/16”) hole in the return line just below water level. This will break the siphon when the return pump stops. Without either of these methods your sump will over flow.
* Piping the returns over the top also allows you the most flexibility with water flow. Create a manifold with PVC and ball valves that distribute the water in different directions in the tank. Use Loc-Line fittings on the end of the returns to allow you to angle them in any direction.
* Drill drain fitting into your sump and close it off with a ball valve. Use a plastic garden host quick-disconnect fitting to attach a drain hose. The water change becomes a matter of pumping new water into the main tank and allowing the over flow to drain out the sump. This makes the water change a breeze.
* A float switch glued to the inside of the return pump chamber will save you from burning up your pump and help with an overflow condition.

If I think of more I’ll come back but I have to go now.

Good luck with the project! You’re off to a good start.

Joe

[bohydromb]

Thanks for the information Flatfish. This tank is an AGA. the biggest sump that i can fit into the stand is 15gal. I think I will do what you said, i will run the return line from the sump on the top of the tank. Now should i use a spraybar on it or should i just use a regular nozzle?
As this project progress i will post DIY equiment that i have made. I just recently receive my float switch and made my auto top off switch will snail gaurd out off a 35mm film container. I am also still waiting on the rest of the stuff from the mail.

I plan on getting this project done by spring. I will not be able to completely get this project done within a few months due to the fact that we are just entering the winter season. i can not work in the garage because it is tooooo COLD in there. So i will not be able to do all the pluming on the tank and testing it out. As a result i am just working on equipments that does not require the tank to be done and set-up yet.

My plans as of now is to make DIY:
1. Moonlight
2. Canopy w/ 2x 55W PC and 2x 250w metal halide
3. Protein skimmer

Which brings me to my next question, what is the recomended amount of wattage so that i can have one very nice clam like a maxima?

Also would 610w of light for this tank overkill? should i go lower?

Comments and suggestions are all welcome.

Thanks

will

[Krux]

on my 75 which is only a 3 foot long tank, i have 500 watss of halides and 4 3' t5 actinics, and on some days i wish i had more. i woul'd say your idea is in no way too much light for your tank... the biggest factor is the water depth (height), and a 55 is not a short tank.

[Flatfish]

Originally Posted by bohydromb

Now should i use a spraybar on it or should i just use a regular nozzle?

Depends on what you are keeping. Some corals like to have a high water flow. Other don't. I'd go with a nozzle that will let you direct flow either towards or away from something. I have four in my 100. I use two to agitate the surface in the corners which have a tendency to collect oils and dust.

Originally Posted by bohydromb

As this project progress i will post DIY equiment that i have made. I just recently receive my float switch and made my auto top off switch will snail gaurd out off a 35mm film container. I am also still waiting on the rest of the stuff from the mail.

Cool. When installing them keep them accessible and easy to remove to regular cleanings. They will require maintenance.

Originally Posted by bohydromb

I plan on getting this project done by spring. I will not be able to completely get this project done within a few months due to the fact that we are just entering the winter season. i can not work in the garage because it is tooooo COLD in there. So i will not be able to do all the pluming on the tank and testing it out. As a result i am just working on equipments that does not require the tank to be done and set-up yet.

Funny my project was timed exactly the same. Completed some time in March.

Originally Posted by bohydromb

My plans as of now is to make DIY:
1. Moonlight
2. Canopy w/ 2x 55W PC and 2x 250w metal halide
3. Protein skimmer

There are lots of things in the FW industry that will help with the skimmer. I used and old bio-tower for mine. Turned out great. The skimmer will require a lot of experimentation. I started out with a beckket. Turns out that a cheap Kent venturi works fine and is less maintenance. It certainly would have saved me a ton of time.

Originally Posted by bohydromb

Which brings me to my next question, what is the recomended amount of wattage so that i can have one very nice clam like a maxima?

Also would 610w of light for this tank overkill? should i go lower?

I'd at least nix one of the 250w MHs. Better on the power bill and heat. With a decent reflector you wouldn't be dissapointed. You could always add a second if it turns out to be too little. But I doubt it. You should consider stepping down to a 175W. I've seen beautiful 120G tanks run on a couple of 175W MH and a couple of VHOs.

Stack the rock high and a max will do well perched on the rock.

Joe