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Old 12-20-2005, 05:33 PM   #16
rdaled
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I'm not able to open the picture. But thanks for the effort!!!

Looks like it is a php file.

I will read your post about 100 times to try and get a mental picture.
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Old 12-20-2005, 05:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdaled
I'm not able to open the picture. But thanks for the effort!!!

Looks like it is a php file.

I will read your post about 100 times to try and get a mental picture.

Its a bmp file I created in paint, I suck at real puter functions, hang on I drew it freehand and scanned it, let me see if that one will attach and be readable
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ID:	31499  
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Old 12-20-2005, 05:58 PM   #18
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well it chopped off a bit, but the upper left hand elbow is water from overflow into sump, the rest is self explanatory I think
The critical issue is space for drain down, the overflow box shouldnt allow much to drain off before it stops flowing because its below the overflow teeth, with a hole in the return line just below the surface, it should break siphon quickly and not let much back drain.
I dont recall the exact dimensions of a 10g, they are a little small in my opinion(used a 20L on my original 29g reef) but the divider is approx 2/3 the height of the tank, so I am guessing about 8"
If you set it up this way, as long as its flowing you will always have plenty of water to feed the skimmer. If for sum reason the overflow gets blocked or the U tube loses siphon, having a smaller return pump chamber minimizes how much water can be pumped back into the tank, lessening the chance of a serious flood.
Also, as water evaporates off, the tank level and the first chamber in the sump will stay constant, the level in the return area is whats going to fluctuate, so this is a good spot to put a float valve or switch for an auto top off setup, Hope this helps
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Old 12-20-2005, 06:23 PM   #19
rdaled
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Now I feel a whole lot better!!! That's exactly what I had in mind.

The wier is the overflow divider right?

Thanks again Doug!! You sure went through alot of trouble for a newbie! (But beware... I still may have just a few more ?'s)
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Old 12-20-2005, 06:33 PM   #20
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I SEE THE LIGHT!!! Man that is some helpful info right there!

I'm sure I'll have a question or two more but I need to fully digest this first.
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Old 12-20-2005, 06:50 PM   #21
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Yes the wier is the divider, No Problem it easier to explain with a pic
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Old 12-21-2005, 08:35 AM   #22
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I think I will also need a float switch for the skimmer. If I lose my siphon then the skimmer pump will continue to pump into the return area which would in turn pump all the sump water back to the main tank.

???
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Old 12-21-2005, 10:52 AM   #23
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Thats a simple fix, just have the skimmer dump just before the wier rather than directly into the return chamber.
Box overflows are pretty reliable, the biggest issue with them is water flowing to slow thru the U tube and transient bubbles getting trapped at the top of the tubes arc, this of course further reduces flow thru, that why its good to get the return rate close to the boxes handing capability
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Old 12-21-2005, 11:00 AM   #24
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I was looking to possibly purchase a CPR CS50 overflow (300gph) and a Mag5 (310gph @ 4'). I would have an adjustable valve on the return line so I could turn it down a little.

Sound alright?
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Old 12-21-2005, 10:08 PM   #25
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You won't need the valve thats what I have going atm.. works great.
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Old 12-22-2005, 04:51 AM   #26
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You won't need the valve thats what I have going atm.. works great.
Do you also use the air lifter for the overflow or just run the airline to a PH?
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base rock , cpr cs , float switch , float valve , flow box , flow rate , gph overflow , hob skimmer , mag float , micro bubbles , oolitic sand , remora skimmer , return pump chamber , salt creep , sand beds , skimmer pump , sugar sand
 
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