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Old 08-15-2007, 12:16 AM   #1
coraln'fish
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First DIY Build, Please Help


Alright, I've been in this hobby about a year and have had an AP24 and really hate it. I was going to buy new lighting because a 72w MH doesn't really cut it. Then realizing this tank would be too much for my mother to take care of during my training in the Navy I decided to use the same lighting only on a smaller, easier to maintain aquarium. The plan is a 15 gallon AGA aquarium with a 10 gallon sump, and a CLS. I need to know whether I can drill or not. I also would like step-by-step instructions as well. I'm a newbie in this area so any help is very appreciated. I was on other web sites and they were either jerks or just weren't helpful. This web site is awesome, I've been dwelling here for some time. Here are my plans (they're not exact):


Any word is appreciated, good or bad. I just want to know what to do. I especially would like to know about plumbing sizes and etc. Thank you for all advice in advance.

~Ryan
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Old 08-15-2007, 12:22 AM   #2
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The diagram does not show a closed loop. It shows two sump returns. And the one w/ the SCWD is a flood waiting to happen I'm guessing this is suposed to be the closed loop, however, it should be fed from the tank and not the sump. Also SCWDs rob about 30-40% of the flow from the pump so keep that in mind.

Then on the sump return, you should try to balance the outputs from the T. They need to be of similiar length with the same amount of bends, otherwise you will get more flow from one output than the other. If you have to T it from one side, ball valves can help balance the flow or give you control.

Otherwise keep in mind that 10 gallon sumps are small, so it's hard to get equipment to fit in the,. such as skimmers and pumps SO I would shoot for one set of baffles, not two.
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Old 08-15-2007, 12:24 AM   #3
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Oh and the drilling is a maybe AGA has a hoge podge of when they run tempered glass, but my guess is it would be fine. If not, a new tank is dirt cheap
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Old 08-15-2007, 12:28 AM   #4
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Cool so you think drilling this much is acceptable. I see what you are saying about the t's.

I wanted to eliminate a hole so I thought I could just put another return from the sump. Why would that be a flood waiting to happen? Thanks for the advice.

~Ryan
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Old 08-15-2007, 12:34 AM   #5
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When the power shuts off, water would drain to the level of the returns located off the scwd. The idea with a closed loop is to add serious flow, with out increasing the flowthrough rate of the sump. For instance on a 15 gallon tank, you want less than 100 gallons per hour through the sump... 50-80 is probably good... Now through the closed loop, you may want to go as high as 4-600 gallons per hour... So way to much for a small tank and sump sytem to handle.

I would drill 1 3/4" for the drain and three 1" for the closed loop. Then I would plumb the sump returns over the back.
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Old 08-15-2007, 12:58 AM   #6
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So two different systems. one part is the sump. and the other is the CLS.

In the pic you are combineing the two of the systems.

The flooding would be because the return for the sump is below the water line. the return should be close to the top, if not over the edge of the tank. With the sump return being below the water line (like said with above post) when power goes out, water will flow to the lowest point. In pic the lowest point would be the sump return, before the return would suck air and stop draining into the sump. The CLS can drain and return well below the water line because there is no place for the water to go.
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Old 08-15-2007, 01:01 AM   #7
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Also the CLS (Closed Loop System) never is exposed to air. hence closed loop. So with the water draining to the sump in which is then expoesed to air in the sump. the system could not be called a CLS.
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:39 AM   #8
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Why should I plumb the sump returns over the back? Thanks for the help. I'm going to be ready to build the stand soon. Is there anything special I should do?

~Ryan
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:43 AM   #9
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Oh, and where would the best place for the CLS drain be?
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:57 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by coraln'fish View Post
Why should I plumb the sump returns over the back? Thanks for the help. I'm going to be ready to build the stand soon. Is there anything special I should do?

~Ryan
I'm not sure which angle Hop was headed for, but you'd want the sump returns high in the tank (and therefore, potentially over the back of the tank) to eliminate the risk of a siphon, which may drain your display and overflow your tank. It's also one or two less holes that you have to drill in the tank, which is nice.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:16 AM   #11
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I would have to agree with the comment about the SWCD - I liked it at first but removed mine because eventually it stopped alternating and there was a lot less flow.
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:30 PM   #12
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So what should I use in place of the SCWD? I really want to have alternating flow. I have the tank and now am ready to start building the stand. Could anyone get me some links on stand builds and some good frame designs? It would be really helpful. I'm going up tonight to price some lumber. Where could I get some good drill bits for this, I have found some but want to know what you guys used. Finally, where would the best place for the CLS drain be? Thank you so much for the help, you have already helped me out more than previous sites.

~Ryan
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:33 PM   #13
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Sorry I went to sleep last night and forgot about this thread... My bad. I was suggesting the over the top for the returns based on the size of the tank and the glass thickness. Six holes in such a small area could be an issue, but four I wouldn't worry about.
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:38 PM   #14
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So what should I use in place of the SCWD? I really want to have alternating flow. I have the tank and now am ready to start building the stand. Could anyone get me some links on stand builds and some good frame designs? It would be really helpful. I'm going up tonight to price some lumber. Where could I get some good drill bits for this, I have found some but want to know what you guys used. Finally, where would the best place for the CLS drain be? Thank you so much for the help, you have already helped me out more than previous sites.

~Ryan
I would look for a used OM squirt. It's a little more, but way worth the price. The site is oceansmotions.com. You can find a used one if you cuise around the net a bit, for a much better price than new.

Stands I'll leave to others as I just picture what I want and build it, I'm no good at telling others how to build stands.

Drill bits for glass? Ebay I think is the cheapest.

Closed loop drain I would put about 3" or so above the sand bed if you are going to run one, in a place that will be hidden by your rockwork.

And welcome to TRT... We try to help all we can
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:59 PM   #15
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Thanks man. I'll start posting pics soon!

~Ryan
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