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10-10-2003, 10:03 PM
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#1
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Good boy
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Marietta, GA, USA
Posts: 7,889
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Electrical question for Junkzoo or anyone else
I'm building a sump room in my garage and I'm looking for the best way to handle my electrical needs. Is there a non metallic, corrosion resistant, surface mount box made for more than two gangs?
I'm open to other suggestions on how to provide multiple outlets but I don't want to use power strips if possible.
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10-10-2003, 10:50 PM
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#2
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Reefless Reefer
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 20,528
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i know you can get those behind the wall boxes out of plastic in the normal electrical isle at your home destruction store of choice. if you look around the gray PVC pipe section at the same store there are ouside electrical boxes. i believe these can be configured in any number of ways.
G~
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10-10-2003, 11:54 PM
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#3
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Nothing to See Here
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Loganville Ga.
Posts: 2,520
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Take a look at how Gregt made up a large multi gang box.
Looks good...
http://www.saltyzoo.com/PhotoAlbum/s...07&photoID=533
Last edited by Mafiaman; 10-10-2003 at 11:58 PM.
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10-11-2003, 06:52 AM
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#4
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Good boy
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Marietta, GA, USA
Posts: 7,889
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Geoff they are going on a concrete wall so I have to use surface mount. The ones I've seen at HD and Lowes are one and two gang boxes. Although using two gang boxes and spacing them out every couple of feet on the wall may make more sense.
Thanks for the link Mafiaman. I had seen that before but couldn't remember where.
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10-11-2003, 09:32 AM
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#5
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Look deeply into my eyes

Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Location, Location
Posts: 12,017
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Rick , two , at least kinds of plastic boxes,,,one is for interior wall install, the other is outdoor ,(box sealed) use, first is blue, second is usually gray. if i'm following you one what you want to do , IMO, surface mount the outdoor boxes/conduit ones,,,,the conduits/fittings, boxes connect with PVC cement, as in PVC water pipe use,just remember to run a ground to everything, and make sure you have a good ground bond at the circuit box.
some more hints,,,mebbe you can run a UG (underground) rated cable instead of single conductor wires in the pipes, better protection for what you are using it for(water/moisture resistance)
get the better the cheapest outlets you can get IMO , the cheapy ,zillion inna barrel type for 19-29 cents are not worth a "dime",use the screws on the outlet for your connection, NOT the strip the wire back and push in da hole way,,,seal the screw connections with "sillycone"same thing with splice connections,if you have to connect wires in a juntion box,put some 'cone up in the wire nut after connection
hope this shelped in any way, post any more ?'s here, or PM me,,,
(thanks for the heads up Geoff)
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Jeff
1st generation J-Crowd member
PRG Member since '09
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10-11-2003, 09:41 AM
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#6
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Good boy
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Marietta, GA, USA
Posts: 7,889
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Thanks for the tips Jeff. I hadn't thought about using UG cable or siliconing the connections. I've seen the grey plastic boxes but the only blue ones I've seen are the flush mount. It will be on a 20 amp breaker. Can I use #12 or do I need to use #10 wire?
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10-11-2003, 10:18 AM
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#7
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A goof
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Plymouth, MN USA
Posts: 2,923
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I am going to jump onto this thread. I believe that I have seen GFCI breakers, would they be better then GFCI outlets? I am going to be adding 2 20 amp circuts for our tank in our new house.
Jon
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10-11-2003, 10:50 AM
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#8
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Look deeply into my eyes

Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Location, Location
Posts: 12,017
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Quote:
Originally posted by Minnreefer
I am going to jump onto this thread. I believe that I have seen GFCI breakers, would they be better then GFCI outlets? I am going to be adding 2 20 amp circuts for our tank in our new house.
Jon
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Yup Jon, GFI breakers cost a bit more than a few outlets, but IMO would be the way to go , as far as protecting a complete, dedicated branch circuit, ie: your tanks
with using a gfi breaker , you can use the general use outlets, (remember , spend a lil more ,and upgrade the oultlets from the cheapy bargain barrel ones)
on the two circuit deal, good idea, also slpit up the load , and the types of things you put on each,,,,
example,split lights and pumps, that way , if a curciut shuts down, the other circuit can still have a pump/heater/skimmer etc still running on the other, and buy time if you are gone,.
nothing like the pump,skimmer,fans etc going off, and have the lights still on, and having the cooling fans on the dead curcuit
you get where i'm coming from.
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Jeff
1st generation J-Crowd member
PRG Member since '09
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10-11-2003, 11:14 AM
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#9
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Look deeply into my eyes

Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Location, Location
Posts: 12,017
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rick O
Thanks for the tips Jeff. I hadn't thought about using UG cable or siliconing the connections. I've seen the grey plastic boxes but the only blue ones I've seen are the flush mount. It will be on a 20 amp breaker. Can I use #12 or do I need to use #10 wire?
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Yup Rick, i've done a few retail/hobbyist elect jobs.
i've cringed at what was there already b4 i did my work
i figger the UG cable , and the 'cone part i've done,will prob not screw up b4 the prev. work i've come across.(i tend to overdo my work , when it comes to tank type work)
as we all know , SW residue can and will "track"electricity when conditions are right,,,,pretty much a lot of the time LOL.
the sealing of all exposed wires will cut back corrosion and tracking. a corroded "hot"(bad) connection will give you plenty of problems, even the dangerous kinds, (fire)
put me on the same page here Rick, you planning on wall(flush -mounting your outlets? or surface mount,,?
the grey outdoor type of system IMO is the best way to go , but i am not sure of applications in the grey type for in wall use.(i'll check into this at work , inna couple of catalogs, and see what I come up with..)
plus the PVC glued style is a better,safer way to go IMO.
on the wire size question,,,,myself i would go with #10, a lil more $$, but if the circuit will be used for firing up MH's or pumps at times(wavemakers etc.) i would feel better with the next size wire than what would be considered "rated" for total circuit use.
only because of "inrush" current of the MH's starting up or large pumps,,,current will spike during this time, does not last a long time,but you get where i 'm coming from , piece of mind,,,,,
check the max rating on the outlets you will be getting , some cheaper outlets do have lower ratings than the better ones,at the store try to plug in to the cheaper ones, and try a higher quality one,,,you ought to see/feel a difference...
Electrical contractors will use the cheapie outlets on a job,but not on their home  (sometimes)
with a larger wire , don't worry, the breaker you use will still operate as it should, it's just the wire will handle start up current a lil better IMO.
plus , who has not added more stuff to their tank circuit?("one more thing,,,X's how many times,,,)
BTW: a extra ground might be a "feel better",if you lose one, ya got the back up (i've seen this happen)
safe than sorry,,,, 
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Jeff
1st generation J-Crowd member
PRG Member since '09
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10-11-2003, 04:48 PM
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#10
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Good boy
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Marietta, GA, USA
Posts: 7,889
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They will be surface mount. I'll go with the grey plastic boxes and weatherseal conduit. Thanks for the reminder about the extra ground. All of my swimming pool equipment has the extra ground. Now I know why.
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