DIY Kalk Reactor and ATO!!

[ckusnierek]

Ok a few months ago I was plannig a DIY Ca reactor and realized that I really did not "need" it on the 75g. I though the whole setup was a lil more $$ than I thought (CO2, Reg, controller)

I started looking at Kalk reactors... Hmm this looks easy I thought. So I ordered everything I need and plan the build this weekend.

On average 1g of supersaturated Kalk will raise the Ca by 25mg/l in a 40g system. Since I have roughly 90g total volume I figure I'll get 10-12 mg/l per 1g Kalk. This works out PERFECT for me since my Ca consumption is about 10mg/l per day and my evap is about 1.5g per day. It gives me a lil more room to grow.

I plan to start out with pure RO/DI during the day and Kalk overnight. I love timers This will help me avoid and negative PH affects, but will probally have to go 100% kalk within 6 months.

I modeled tihs reactor after a few I saw online..

The materials

4" PVC toilet flange closed (base)
4.5" x 6" clear acrylic tube (for visual checking Kalk level)
4" PVC coupler (recirc pump plumbed here)
24" 4" PVC (chamber)
3" rubber wing nut cap thinggy
MJ 400 for recirc
misc PVC and JG fittings.

Basically the flange will be the base followed by some acrylic. then a coupler. here I will install a in/out for the recirc and a 1/4" JG fitting for the RO/DI input. Then at the top of the unit I will install another 1/4" JG for the Kalk out to tank.

ATO hardware: (this is soo easy) credit to CRVZ
A simple 12vdc solenoid to controll RO/DI to the reactor.
2 float switches in series to controll solenoid
ac/dc 12v converter to power the soleniod.
WOW a automatic ATO for less than $40

one float at sump water lever and one float will be inverted at the top of the sump for overflow protection.
I will place the solenoid between the reactor and RO/DI unit and use a valve the throttle back the RO/DI pressure to about a 2g/day flow. since I have about 15g volume left in the sump and I dump skimmate every 2 days this will also protect from a overflow.

I will also install a check valve to prevent back siphioning.

My 1st step will be making the pump section... I will start that tonnight.
2 holes for the 1/2" pvc fittings and epoxy to hold them in and another hole for the JG fitting. I got a MJ 400 to start because its cheap and disposable but may upgrade to a MAG 2 is the MJ don't hold up..

More to come later and pics.....

[ckusnierek]

oops. Could a MOD please move this to the DIY forum? Thanks

[crvz]

You're tempting me to do something similar, Chris. My $200 kalk reactor started leaking, and so it's been offline for weeks. I may just wait for your to finish and then rob your design!

One thing I always wanted with my old unit... the ability to add kalk without tearing the whole thing apart. Because the lid also contained the input and output, I didnt like having to unhook all the lines, unplug it, pull it out of the stand, take off the lid, and then fill it. I've seen a few commercial units that had a port for dumping in fresh kalk... I may consider that in whichever unit I end up with in the future. Something to think about.

[wharyat]

I moved the thread for you.

I'm looking forward to the progress on this project.

[ckusnierek]

OK everything came in today so the build starts tonnight

[mjsandbe]

Pictures please

[OneDummHikk]

Yes, pictures. Lots of pictures. I have been wanting to build one for a few weeks now and the pics would be awesome.

[ckusnierek]

Just finished !!!

but I need to shower and go to bed

PICs tomorrow..... SORRY

[OneDummHikk]

Are there any advantages to using the coupling for the fittings or could you just drill them directly into the pipe?

[ckusnierek]

Do you mean the john guest fittings?

[OneDummHikk]

Yes. I think I need to wait and see the pics before asking questions though. It may be a moot point.

[ckusnierek]

Those fittings are for the RO in and out there just easier than compression or other fittings...

[OneDummHikk]

I was looking at another DIY thing I found on Google and it used a coupling in the pipe to hold all the connections for the RO/DI and outlet. Got brain mixed and didn't know if you did yours that way and why they used the fitting instead of just threading the pipe itself.

[ckusnierek]

OK we now have some pics

It's a bit crude right now I was 1/2 asleep when I finished and got a lil sloppy. I plan to mask the acrylic and paint it blkack anyway.

Here we go....

Here is the unit it stands about 40" tall.
The "wing nut cap seal thinggy" will be fine as this unit will NOT be under pressure.

OK from ground up:
4" potty flange
4" coupler
4.5" clear acrylic 12" long only about 8" exposed. (loose fit use lots of glue)
4" coupler (with pump installed and RO/DI input)
24" x 4" PVC (output installed near top)
Wing nut seal thinggy





Close up of pump assy:
1/2" PVC fitting (input)
MaxiJet 400 recirc The PVC fit over the MJ pickup nicely so I just glued it
1/2" barbbed fitting installed for return
The RO/DI input is in the side. I used JG fittings because I like them
Dont look at the hose clamps I did nit have the right size so I was trying to seal it up

On the inside of the reactor, the pickup goes to the center of the chamber and there ia a elbow upwards and on the return there is a elbow pointed down so the kalk gets striied up real good


Top of reactor:
Cap seal and output to tank....




I plan to clean and paint it up real nice this weekend and maybe put racing stripes and flames on it I better water test it first

More later and the ATO build this weekend also....

[ckusnierek]

OK I was thinking about painting it black but that seems kinda boring and drab. I any suggestions on color? It will be in the utility room with the RO unit so it will never actually be seen. Thats why I also made it so big. If it was going to sit next to the tank I would have never made it that big