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Old 03-13-2007, 01:46 AM   #31
Fly Guy
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SWEET. Glad it worked out for ya.

Did you grind the four teeth into the top of each rod?? Im curious because a couple people have made these lifts and either left the tops of the rods flat, or just ground the top to a point.

I cant emphasize enough how important the four teeth are. It will still work of course without doing that, but the gripping power is very much different toward the overall stability, the rocks will absolutely not slide even a little bit with those four teeth in the top of each rod.

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Old 03-14-2007, 10:23 PM   #32
tspatz
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SWEET. Glad it worked out for ya.

Did you grind the four teeth into the top of each rod?? Im curious because a couple people have made these lifts and either left the tops of the rods flat, or just ground the top to a point.

I cant emphasize enough how important the four teeth are. It will still work of course without doing that, but the gripping power is very much different toward the overall stability, the rocks will absolutely not slide even a little bit with those four teeth in the top of each rod.


Absolutely. I used my bench grinder just like you posted, and it worked great. I think it would suck to only have one point or a flat top.

The only problem I had for the whole project was that I placed the rods about 4-5" apart horizontally, and then staggered the rods between rows just like you did, then when I went to put my base rock pieces on, I found out that maybe I would have liked to have the rods a little closer together to allow me to place my rock in more of a vertical position rather than a horizontal position. Also, since the rock needs to sit on at least 3 points to be absolutely stable, others might want to do measurements to make sure their base rock is large enough to do so. (Mine was just barely large enough).
But other than maybe spacing the rods a little closer together, I would've just like a way to be able to put the removed rods back into position in case I ever decide to reaquascape. As of now, I can forgot it, though. Once they come out, the sand fills in the holed, and it would be impossible to replace.
One thing I like is that in the few places where you can see the acrylic rod, it doesn't look bad at all, interesting actually.

All in all, A+ idea that is so much better, more solid and a hell of a lot better looking than PVC! Thanks again!
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Old 03-17-2007, 07:46 PM   #33
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Here's a few pics of my 70g RR tank recently set up w/ the lifts.
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Old 04-08-2007, 01:32 AM   #34
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Has anyone tried making these a bit more modular? Instead of making it as one big bottom piece, then adding/removing the rods as needed, I was considering making seperate supports in a triangle shape (3 rods). One of these would sit under each rock as needed, and would be a lot easier to move around. I haven't tried it yet though, still pre-planning my system.


They could also be made different sizes so they match to the rock size.
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Old 04-08-2007, 01:57 AM   #35
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Has anyone tried making these a bit more modular? Instead of making it as one big bottom piece, then adding/removing the rods as needed, I was considering making seperate supports in a triangle shape (3 rods). One of these would sit under each rock as needed, and would be a lot easier to move around. I haven't tried it yet though, still pre-planning my system.


They could also be made different sizes so they match to the rock size.
There are a bunch of variations that could work.

I havent actually made one that fits the entire bottom in a long time like the one at the beginning of this thread. The last dozen or so of these i have made i have been making in smaller sections of 15-24" square apiece, depending on tank size. They ship easier and are easier to fit in some tanks. There are still 15-20 rods per section though.....but again........like everything in this hobby, many ways to do things

The only problem i see with your idea of only 3 rods in a section, is stability. if the frame holding the three rods is only spaced as big as those three rods.......it could shift with too mcuh weight leaning to one side or the other, whereas if the frame is at least a foot square........there isnt a rock big enough, or creature that you could possibly put in your tank that is going to shift the rack. Just something to think about.
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Old 04-08-2007, 02:18 AM   #36
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Yeah, wider is deffinately better, or at least extend the ends of the frame out for better support. All depends on how high you need them to be, as in a DSB.
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:23 AM   #37
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Could you post a detail pic of the "teeth" on the rods? I'm having a hard time visualizing them. Thanks for the great idea!
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Old 04-26-2007, 02:06 AM   #38
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Could you post a detail pic of the "teeth" on the rods? I'm having a hard time visualizing them. Thanks for the great idea!
Steve
no problem

The teeth are made simply by pushing the rod into a table grinder at a 45 degree angle in 4 different directions making 4 very sharp teeth that grip any part of the rock you lay on them.

Note-they can also be used as a deadly weapon if need be.

Here is a close up of the teeth

hth

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Old 04-26-2007, 12:05 PM   #39
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Ah, I see now! Thanks!
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Old 04-29-2007, 09:48 PM   #40
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Hey Fly Guy, just wanted to say thanks for the idea! Here's a couple of pics of my lifts (I'll add a couple more once the tank is finally set up.) I started by cutting out long strips of cardboard that I set inside my tank to determine the exact layout I wanted.

I determined I wanted 3 rows and I left room to account for my overflow box as well as the curve of the bowfront tank. I must admit I cheated a little though. I don't have a table saw but still wanted everything cut cleanly, so I had my plastic shop cut the strips and squares for me. They sold me 1/2" scrap acrylic out of the scrap pile and charged me a minimal cutting charge.

I went with 1 1/2" strips of 3 different lengths on top of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" squares. My rods are all exactly 4" on center and I spaced the strips so that any 3 rods on adjacent strips make a 4" equilateral triangle. (What can I say, I guess I just like things symmetrical...) I assembled my lift on an old piece of mirror which kept everything nice and level. I personally like the Weld-On #4 as I always seem to make a mess with the #16. Just place a square under the strip, run a quick circle of #4 around the inside of the hole, press for about 15 seconds and it's on to the next one... Thanks again!!!



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Old 05-06-2007, 12:09 AM   #41
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Hey Fly Guy, just wanted to say thanks for the idea!

Not a problem. Glad it worked for ya. Looks perfect. Now get some rock in there and water flowing.
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Old 07-08-2007, 11:43 PM   #42
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Thought I'd post a couple more pics now that I have rock, sand, and water in place.

This first one is just after my tank settled when I initially set it up.




Here's another pic that is more recent with some other tank inhabitants in place.




My rock lifts are not as "invisible" as they appear to be in some of your pics FlyGuy. I believe this may be due to the fact that I placed my front row of rods a little close to the front glass. This did not really leave me with the option of hanging the rock over the front of them which would have hidden the rods under the "cliffs". However, I still like the way it looks, it allows for better flow under my rock, my Peppermint Shrimp love clinging to the bottom of the rocks, and my Orange Spotted Sleeper Goby cant undermine my rock pile and cause it to come crashing down!
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Old 07-08-2007, 11:51 PM   #43
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My rock lifts are not as "invisible" as they appear to be in some of your pics FlyGuy. I believe this may be due to the fact that I placed my front row of rods a little close to the front glass. This did not really leave me with the option of hanging the rock over the front of them which would have hidden the rods under the "cliffs". However, I still like the way it looks, it allows for better flow under my rock, my Peppermint Shrimp love clinging to the bottom of the rocks, and my Orange Spotted Sleeper Goby cant undermine my rock pile and cause it to come crashing down!
Your tank is coming together nicely. Looks great.

Yeah...the slight overhang is key to casting a shadow on them and making them less visible. But as your tank matures...they cover in coralline and you throw a coral here and there in front they wont be seen. You will find that becasue they ARE in the light somewhat they will cover completely in coralline pretty quickly.

The lifts tick off my pink spotted watchman goby i think becasue he cant hide anywhere from me. He was one of the survivors of my recent ordeal thankfully.
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:13 PM   #44
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Figure I might as well add my latest free flow rock program for anyone who wants to look.

Used the same frame as I have posted in this thread, and the same frame as was already in my reef with the usual program.....just a little more effort as I drilled each rock and suspended each off of one rod. Not one rock is touching any other rocks...just the rod and the water with each rock 100% independent.

Surely not as easy to aquascape this way as you cant just throw the rock down like on the lifts with teeth, but a better flow program yet IMO

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111814
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Old 02-02-2008, 10:27 AM   #45
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Fly,

I was a little late reading about your rock lifts, I had already bought a sheet of 1/2" hdpe. My plan if I persue making these lifts is to get 1/4" rod along with 3/4" rod and drill the 3/4" rod and the 1/2" hdpe with 1/4" holes and use the 1/4" rod as dowls, cutting them just short of protruding from the bottom of the hdpe. clear as mud? you see any issues with that plan? ive never worked with acrylic rod so im not sure how strong 1/4" will be, will it be able to stand whatever shearing forces im creating while im putting the rock work in?
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Tags
acrylic rods , base rock , biological filtration , flow box , overflow boxes , peppermint shrimp , pink spotted watchman , pink spotted watchman goby , rock lift , spotted watchman goby , watchman goby



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