DIY Group Project - Eductors

[Viv]

Very cool, I think I'm understanding the eductor! Thanks Geoff!

[Geoff]

does anybody have any pics of their eductors? how about any results so far?

G~

[wharyat]

Just got done making some compact 90 degree educators. Even on my quietone 3000 split two ways, these have about doubled the flow than a normal 90 degree street fitting. Can also be modified as a straight (180 degree) design.



These ones are quite DIY intensive, requiring one to use a torch to heat up the pipe (mixer on the end) to shape it; also a lot of dremeling involved. Total cost: 67 cents. (not including labor )

Let me know if you guys want an instruction list.

[Geoff]

Originally Posted by wharyat

Just got done making some compact 90 degree educators. Even on my quietone 3000 split two ways, these have about doubled the flow than a normal 90 degree street fitting. Can also be modified as a straight (180 degree) design.



These ones are quite DIY intensive, requiring one to use a torch to heat up the pipe (mixer on the end) to shape it; also a lot of dremeling involved. Total cost: 67 cents. (not including labor )

Let me know if you guys want an instruction list.

well of course we want the instructions.

G~

[wharyat]

Ok here goes...


The following is for a 1/2" diameter injector nozzle. If you plan on making a larger one, use the same brands and pieces; but with the larger diameter components.

First of all, a few essential pieces are needed.

• 1/2" 90 degree street elbow (can also use a MPT/slip adaptor. These NEED to be Lasco brand, found at Lowe's (explained later)
• 1/2" tube coupler, found at Home Depot; Spring Creek Mfg., Inc.
• 1/2" piping, schedule 40, found anywhere.

Mixer
First off, the pipe is heated to viscosity with a propane torch. It takes a bit of practicing to figure out how to heat it with little or minimal scorching. I keep the flame rather low and hold the pipe approx 1" away while rotating it to heat it thoroughly.

Next I take the pipe and push it down on a "sharpened" piece of steel round bar to create the first conic shape on the end. Any cone shaped piece (preferebly metal) you can find would work, I was lucky enough to stumble across this in the garage.

Now the pipe needs to be heated up again, further in, so it can be "tightened" to create a more hydrodynamic shape and allow more water to be sucked in. Same principles used in aerodynamics; specifically, lift, are in play. I used a small diameter peice of round bar bent in half to do this. The pipe is rotated until it cools down in to the shape I want.

After the pipe hardens back up; I cut off the end, using the recently tightened part as the halfway point. Mine come out to around 1.25 inches in total length. Now the mixer part is done.

Housing
The housing is the part that will attach to the water source. This example is using a 90 degree slip fitting. The Lasco brand has a lip on the inside of the slip end, allowing for easy injector mounting.

First the fitting is marked for cutting. In this picture you can see the lip at the bottom of the slip end. I use a hacksaw to cut down to the lip in the fitting.

Next the tabs are cut off. The discontinued saw blade made for the dremel is by far the best bit I have found for cutting plastic and such. You can still find them on ebay, defeinately a recommended purchase for the DIY'er.

I then take the fitting and clean off all the burrs with the dremel and a file. You can see the nice flat working surface the lip gives to attach the injector here.

Now it's time to cut the coupler down to create the injector. I cut mine to behind the 5th barb; I then dremel the barb down so it fits in the housing. The injector is an integral part to the educator; it increases the velocity of the water to help the mixer pull in the surounding water.

Now glue the injector into the housing. I like to use the heavy duty PVC cement, just to give a bit more support; the stuff in the teal can.

The final step is to attach the mixer to the housing. Make sure to use primer to insure a clean connection.

It's finished!


If you plan to build this, especially any larger models; post pics and give some feedback as to how it works for you.

[Geoff]

Very Nice Vince!!

thanks for posting the instructions,

G~

[VWD]

Vince how is it working? Good , can you tell.

[thebutler4]

Could you attach one to loc-Line?

[Geoff]

i do not see why not. it is all about being able to fit the locline into the fitting used for the initial eductor nozzle. i do not have a piece of locline around so i could not check for sure, but they are listed as 1/2" and 3/4" sizes, so i am guessing that these are standard PVC sizings.

G~

[wharyat]

Originally Posted by VWD

Vince how is it working? Good , can you tell.

I have noticed quite a difference, even with the lower pressure pumps. It's not really a faster flow, just a stronger more powerful flow. I figured that I've pushed my return flow (quietone 3000 split in half with a 4' rise) up 50%. The CLS (quietone 3000 split in half) are close if not over 2 times the flow.

I tested on the hose outside with a long trough; and these things push 3 to 4 times the incoming flow; really quite amazing.

I built some of Geoff's design too, same results.

These educators are one of the best things I have done for the tank in a while; can't wait to build my big tank.

[VWD]

Thanks Vince

[wharyat]

Anyone have any reports? Pics??

[reefBoyDc]

im not very bright. How does the hose barb stay in the adapter? Am i having trouble because I don't have exactly the brand of hose barb specified?

And i'm really not bright at all when i ask... in which direction does the water flow?

[Geoff]

Originally Posted by reefBoyDc

im not very bright. How does the hose barb stay in the adapter? Am i having trouble because I don't have exactly the brand of hose barb specified?

And i'm really not bright at all when i ask... in which direction does the water flow?

do not be selling yourself short here. if you have never seen a production one in action it is very confusing on how the DIY ones are setup.



in the image above the water will come in on the right side. the water will be pressurized and then squirted out of the barb. the holes in the PVC connector will draw in the extra water.

the parts i listed fit snug together and work fine without any adhesives. if you were not able to find those fittings than i am not sure if it will work or not. since you are on the East coast i figured the HD/Lowes in your area would carry Watts fittings.

G~

[reefBoyDc]

Thanks Geoff, I'm going over there to get the right parts. I was trying to use leftovers that I had, but they're not exactly what I need.