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03-14-2009, 01:31 AM
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#1
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 81
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DIY 20 Gal L Refugium/Sump
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03-14-2009, 02:02 AM
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#2
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Hampstead, MD
Posts: 447
Reviews: 2
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There's not much room left over in your sump with those dividers that high. Can it hold the water when the power goes off to the return pump? The dividers in my sump are 8" high and the water fills up to almost the trim when the return is powered off.
Nice job on getting it under the tank. I have the same tank/stand and I had to drop my sump in prior to putting the tank on the stand. Did you put the center brace back in and how did you secure it if you did?
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03-14-2009, 02:16 AM
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#3
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Non-Hypocritical

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hillbillyville Alabama
Posts: 8,064
Reviews: 11
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Looks nicely done. I took the divider out of a cabinet that appears identical to yours other than the one I did was painted black. To date I haven't had any issues with the stand. We didn't even bother to put the divider back in although we still have it. I considered making a way to put it back in but it still be easily removable.
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03-14-2009, 06:25 PM
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#4
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OIIIIIO
There's not much room left over in your sump with those dividers that high. Can it hold the water when the power goes off to the return pump? The dividers in my sump are 8" high and the water fills up to almost the trim when the return is powered off.
Nice job on getting it under the tank. I have the same tank/stand and I had to drop my sump in prior to putting the tank on the stand. Did you put the center brace back in and how did you secure it if you did?
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Ya I thought of that after I had it all put together. I guess I am going to have to rig up something so it cant overflow. Any ideas? And I did put the center brace back in it was glued in so thats how I put it back.
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03-14-2009, 07:41 PM
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#5
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Non-Hypocritical

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hillbillyville Alabama
Posts: 8,064
Reviews: 11
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Personally, I would test it first. Get everything up and running, then shut the return pump down. Be ready to turn it back on in case it wants to overflow but test it. If it turns out that it wants to flood, you can move the anti-siphon holes up in the display, and/or remove the last baffle and shorten it. The single baffle. That will lower the water in about half the sump and give you some extra room for an overflow.
Or, drill the sump tank, drain it into an overflow bottle. The only problem then is when the power is back on, it won't be "full" since it went in the overflow bottle/box. Not an ideal solution.
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03-14-2009, 10:37 PM
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#6
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: westminster
Posts: 71
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I bult the same sump for my 60 gal. Baffles are 8.75 high. I used a cal. from one of the sight. When power is out , its right to the rim.
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03-15-2009, 12:49 AM
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#7
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 81
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Just got done building the plumbing. I used 1/2" with a check valve on the bottom and a ball valve mid way up for maintenance and such. Ill post another pic once I have it under the tank and running.

Whoa weird, I was looking at the picture and I saw a face in the carpet. Look at it close, it takes up almost the whole picture. Let me know if you see it too. I showed my mom the pic and she sees it too.
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03-15-2009, 12:56 AM
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#8
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Non-Hypocritical

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hillbillyville Alabama
Posts: 8,064
Reviews: 11
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I wouldn't depend on the checkvalve. Its going to get salted up and fail eventually. Simply drill an anti siphon hole in the return pipe right below the water line. One on each side so that they both can't get stopped up. Just 1/8" holes. You could even drill 4 of them for some built in backup, but don't depend on the checkvalve.
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03-15-2009, 02:31 AM
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#9
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 81
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03-15-2009, 06:56 PM
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#10
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 81
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Well today I got the refugium light put in. And put some sand in the fuge section. Also ordered some Chaetomorpha on ebay.

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03-16-2009, 05:21 PM
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#11
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 81
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Got my Denitrator in now. Chaeto should be in on Wed.

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03-17-2009, 07:08 PM
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#12
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 81
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03-18-2009, 12:57 PM
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#13
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 296
Reviews: 56
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WOW nice!
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03-19-2009, 12:17 AM
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#14
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quick_murdoc
WOW nice!
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Thanks, it was pretty easy to do. I wish I had done it earlier. Total cost was about $73. and an extra $50 for the overflow, but cost includes plumbing and all.
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03-19-2009, 01:21 AM
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#15
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Non-Hypocritical

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hillbillyville Alabama
Posts: 8,064
Reviews: 11
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Very nice and a very good price on getting it finished.
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