Cutting glass baffles

[ReefSparky]

Hey all. Hope this hasn't been answered a million times. I've searched, and came up with many threads, but none addressing my exact question.

I have a 10 gal glass tank that I'm going to turn into a refugium. I need a total of 4 glass baffles, but don't know where to turn to for glass cutting.

Does anyone know, or can point me to a thread where cutting glass is explained?

Additionally, how does one create an opaque baffle? Since the tank is glass, and I'm using silicone, the baffles will be glass too.

Much appreciated. Thanks.

[Geoff]

it is usually easier to just go to HD or Lowe's and have them cut glass for you. it is thin glass, so you will need to be carefull, but since they are baffles there will be little pressure on them.

why do you want baffles in a 10g refugium? a 10g is rather small to use as a refugium and adding baffles would just make it even smaller.

as for making the glass opaque, just use the spray etching stuff. this can be found at most craft stores.

G~

[ReefSparky]

Thanks for the response Geoff. I knew I'd have to address this question. You seem like a fine shoulder on which to cry.

The reason for such a small refugium is this:
As my profile states, I've had my 55 gal tank for 20 years, FOWLR. Hair algae has always been a sign of a "healthy established tank" and the fish didn't mind one bit! LOL

When I decided to go reef last month, the first thing I did was replace my small wet/dry and protein skimmer with larger, better versions of both. Had I done my reading BEFOREHAND,I would not have bought another wet/dry. Only NOW do I know live rock, a good skimmer, and a sump to increase water volume would have been a better decision.

Not having the option to return the wet/dry, I made the bed, now I'll sleep in it.

My skimmer sits in my wet/dry. Next to it, I have enough room for the 10 gallon tank I already own. (In fact, my tomato clown and large skunk cleaner shrimp are in this 10gal "saltwater Hilton" as we speak.)

In preparation of going reef, I changed 75% of my water, replaced a year-old 48" T8 tube flourescent light, scrubbed clean all my live rock in salt water, cleaned my glass, bought a phos reactor, and replaced 40 lbs of CC substrate with fine calcareous sand.

I just want an end to the algae.

My water has zero nitrates, and zero phosphates. pH of 8.2, alkalinity of 4 mEq, calcium at 425 (no corals yet) Soon, I'll purchase a good quality RO/DI system. For now I'm buying seawater at the LFS. No more tap water!!

My wet/dry / sump turns my tank water over about 6 times per hour. I figured a small refugium would kill two birds with one stone: allow me to increase my tank turnover, and let me add a remote DSB with a lit area for some cheato to end the hair algae.

The 10 gal refugium will be simple. Three compartments. One for collection, a fuge in the center, and the third compartment for the return pump. Given the dimensions of the 10g tank, I'll have about a foot of space within the 10g for the DSB/cheato/rock. Maybe not ideal, but it'll have to do for now.

Hopefully my rationale is clear and you and the others can share whether or not I'm moving in the right direction here. I value the opinions of everyone, as that's the best way to learn.

Given my situation, is this a reasonable approach?

[Fly Guy]

Originally Posted by ReefSparky

I just want an end to the algae.

My water has zero nitrates, and zero phosphates?

You cant have all of these things in the same paragraph and it be true.

If your hobby test kits can even detect anything you have a a serious issue, and even if they dont detect anything, you can still have a serious issue

You have phosphate problems if you have hair algae

I didnt notice what kind of skimmer you have now.

Im willing to be that your algae problems are at least in part coming from the rock itself. that rock is so loaded with phosphates from being in a dirty system for so long that it will need cooked for 3-6 months before it will not cause you problems.

by cooking I dont mean in the oven. Go read this thread and see if that is something you can do. If not......get new rock. I would encourage you to cook any new rock you get as well, but it most likely will be in better shape than what you have now.

http://thereeftank.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66551

[Geoff]

if the tank has had the same rock and sand since new, then it is time to do some serious cleanup. over time the LR and sand become full of phosphates. there is no way to remove phosphates from sand, so it just needs to be replaced. any kind of sand will work. finding aragonite based play sand can sometimes be difficult this time of year, but can be done. the LR on the other hand can be purged of phosphates and Fly has given you the link to get it done.

a fuge does not help any of this. the nutrients are in the system and a fuge will not get them out. using tap water did not help your cause any either. so switching off of that will help in getting you back on track.

a remote DSB is just a phosphate sponge. eventually it will also need to be replaced. this is just a fact of nature. aragonite absorbs phosphates until it is full then the phosphates enter the water column where the algae can use it. if you hop on over to The Think Forum and give a read on the long threads there they will give you all the info you ever care to have about phosphates.

G~

[ReefSparky]

Fly Guy and Geoff, thanks a lot. I'll do some more reading before I make any moves. Would it do any good to just put some LR in that 10g and make it a sump to add to the water turnover rate?

I guess it's time to get cookin'

[Twitterbait]

once your rock is done cooking all you need is good flow, great skimming, and regular water changes. if you keep feeding to a minimum then you will see a big difference. take all the bio media out of the wet/dry and just use it as a sump. i would ditch the 10g all together. you want the LR in the tank with the flow once it is cleaned that way you can keep it clean. if you put it in a sump it will just get dirty again.

[ReefSparky]

Originally Posted by Twitterbait

once your rock is done cooking all you need is good flow, great skimming, and regular water changes. if you keep feeding to a minimum then you will see a big difference. take all the bio media out of the wet/dry and just use it as a sump. i would ditch the 10g all together. you want the LR in the tank with the flow once it is cleaned that way you can keep it clean. if you put it in a sump it will just get dirty again.

GREAT!! Just what I need. Someone who's forgotten more about the hobby than I currently know, telling me to lose the expensive equipment I just purchased.

You're killing me here, you know this, right? Can you speak to my wife too? LOL

[Geoff]

i like to keep sumps as empty as possible. that way they are easier to siphon the detritus out of them. now, you can use the sump to help in your LR cooking. stick a piece of LR in the sump for a couple of months to let it turgor on its own. then switch it out for another one. this way the bacterial flock will fall to the bottom of the sump and allow you to siphon it out during water changes.

G~

[ReefSparky]

Originally Posted by Geoff

. . . now, you can use the sump to help in your LR cooking. stick a piece of LR in the sump for a couple of months to let it turgor on its own. then switch it out for another one. this way the bacterial flock will fall to the bottom of the sump and allow you to siphon it out during water changes.

G~

That's a good idea. You don't suppose doing this one piece at a time would undo the benefits once the cooked rock is placed back in the display tank with the yet to be cooked rocks?

[Geoff]

as long as the freshly cooked rock gets put on top, then you will not be going backwards. the biggest problem for LR and phosphates is the sand. as long as the LR does not touch the sand then it will not wick up the phosphates and the LR can purge itself.

G~