Crazy Tank Experiment!

[Mbones]

Thanks for the helpful hints Geoff. I had thought about inseting the 10's into the 20 for just that reason. I think that they are both made out of the same thickness if I remember right from when I was working on this. But if there is a thickness difference it is not much of one at all, so I am not to worried about that as long as I get a nice stable frame and bottom platform for the tanks to sit on. If anyone else has anymore helpful hints just keep posting them. I can not work on this project for another week, so all your help is going to be used! I keep you updated!

[ReeferHI]

What about having the front of all the tanks flush and putting in a "false" back in the 20 for an overflow?

[Geoff]

ReeferHI- Welcome to TRT!!!



the problem with doing it that way is that you will end up with an edge butt joint. these are not very strong. it is a free floating joint without any real support. prolly not going to last long term.

the external/false back overflow is a good idea. that could supply a lot water.

G~

[jesspaul]

Most tank specs I've seen have the thickness of the glass related to the depth of the tank so if all the parts have the same top level thats should be ok. The two L shaped peices where the 10s join the 20 are pita to cut. How about a wood glass mix like www.garf.org? a plywood bottom would allow the front glass from the tens to angle out to the 20

[jesspaul]

like this with Wood bottom

[ReeferHI]

Geoff, OK, that makes sense. But then aren't all the joints between the 10s and the 20 the same type of joint? Oh, unless you mean the joint will be cut end to cut end. In that case, if the 20 is cut right, the 10 will join to the outside of the 20 and the overflow can join to the inside. Just thinking out loud.