Auto top off

[Pinderville]

Im am using a float switch like this for my auto top off system. It drives an air pump that forces air into a 5g water bottle and that forces water into the fish tank.

This system worked perfectly on my 10g, but now on my 55g its causing some issues. When the float switch reaches a certain point, the pump does not turn off 100%, it then runs around 50% which is not enough to put any water in the tank. The air pump would continue run for hours until the water level dropped enough to make the pump run at 100% again.

Are there better switches out there to use? Should I be using a water pump in the water bottle that can push a high volume of water then shut off?



Let me know what you think.

I may have answered my own question.

What about a water pump in the bottle to put water into the main tank?

[Geoff]

either go with a water pump delivery system or a much larger air pump. the problem is that the volume of water needed to raise the water level up is so much greater on the bigger tank that the little airpump is not supplying it so the float switch is always in its on/off zone.

G~

[Pinderville]

Here is what I made today. I took the current 5g water bottle and cut off the top so I can fit the Rio 1800 in there. The line coming out is 1/2 ID and its working perfectly.

Im able to use the same float switch that is rated for 70watts and the Rio is around 24 watts. I should not have a problem with it.

[Pinderville]

Here is some pics.

[Geoff]

do no be surprised if the float switch burns out in a few months with that much wattage going through it. you might want to think about going with a rely system instead of straight 120v wiring.

G~

[Pinderville]

I think it has already burned up. It worked perfectly yesterday and when it turned on this morning, it would not stop until I unplugged power to it.

Would you have a diagram of a relay setup?

[Geoff]

check this site out. this should help you out.

G~

[Daemonfly]

The switches have failed (stuck closed) on every single floatswitch setup I've done. They've all been 12v systems with relays, even put a reverse diode across relay coil (collapse of the mag field will send a spike back down wires). None of them should have failed, as they were all run well within spec (multiple brands of switches).

Next one I'm building will use either 5v system or even lower with transistors (more complicated circuit).

[dngspot]

I have a 200 gpd ro/di system, I was wondering if anyone has attempted to use this type of system with a solenoid to shut off the feed water to the ro/di to prevent TDS creep?
I have built a dual switch system. It will switch on when the lowest float is open, then off when the upper float closes. I have a solenoid that I will use to shut the feed water to the ro/di off. I will also use a mechanical float valve as a redundant water shut down if the electrical fails.

Has this been done before, is it possible to damage the ro system shutting it down this way or any other problems?

Thanks,
David

[Bergovoy]

to Pinder...

The water level in your resevoir would need to be above your display tank to work properly. And as the resevoir is depleted, your air pump will need to pump more just to pressurize the vessel, then to pressure the water up and over and into the tank or sump...

That design is not that efficient, and would be better off with a timer so that it happens once or twice a day at the same time so you can observe it and regulate it better, especially since the time to pressurize the vessel changes each time...

Good luck.


I have my top off connected directly to my ro/di output, and have the top off on a timer so it will not flick on and off , Basically it will only run when I need about a gallon or more, (my tank is a 180, and I evap about 3+ gallons per day...)

I built my from scratch and it uses a relay and solenoid to lower the operating voltage to 12 volts.

My problem is that I want indicator lights and for some reason I dont think mty wal wart is supplying sufficient amperage for the solenoid the relay and the indicator lights.

I will be looking into a solid state relay device...

My device cost $80 in parts alone, (not counting the wasted parts and supples in trying to figure things out...) (and that is for two seperate devices, I figured I would either make one for someone or sell them the parts and tehy can make it for themselves)