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07-12-2005, 07:32 PM
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#16
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photomod
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Montana
Posts: 5,894
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Yes that plan looks like a good one; but for the input I would do a straight shot from the pump into the skimmer, no elbows or antyhing.
Yep, PVC glue works good just use lots of it, inside of cut hole, around the oustide of pipe, then around the outside of the junction, also make sure you use primer (as you always should for PVC connections.
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07-12-2005, 08:28 PM
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#17
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 9,643
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Ok so this is what looks good to you vince? What size pump will work good with it? So just PVC glue works to seal the inlets and outlets without breaking or leaking.
Tim
Last edited by Tim224DT; 04-16-2007 at 09:09 PM.
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07-13-2005, 01:09 AM
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#18
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photomod
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Montana
Posts: 5,894
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Looks good  Yep the joints are actually pretty strong, but make sure not to put too much stress on them. If they leak, just drain the water and add some more glue around the outside, they should stop leaking.
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07-13-2005, 05:00 AM
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#19
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 9,643
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Ok thanks Vince, I will try to purchase the stuff this weekend to get it started. Depending on how much it costs me to build and for the pump i might build another one for my 29 gallon tank. Will a Mag5 work for this or will a Mag 7 be better?
Tim
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07-13-2005, 05:07 AM
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#20
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 9,643
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Whats a good Venturi to use?
Tim
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07-13-2005, 08:37 PM
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#21
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photomod
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Montana
Posts: 5,894
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Well I use a DIY one that I came up with:
You can also use the one from Kent that is in Geoff's plans: http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=KM2851
If you use Kent's then put it after the pump.
If you DIY one, this is when to put it directly before the pump.
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07-13-2005, 10:25 PM
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#22
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 9,643
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Ok thanks Vince, the DIY one might come out cheaper i would have to price it because that Kent one is going to be a little over $20 to have it shipped. Also what size inlet pipe and outlet pipes are good to use. I was thinking like 3/4" in and 1" to 1.5" out. Would those sizes work ok on lets say a mag 7?
Tim
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07-14-2005, 04:35 PM
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#23
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 9,643
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Hello another question again one of these days soon i will have this thing built and going. I was looking online at different pics of skimmers and i noticed a design that looked like this one. Where the inlet line ran into the inside chamber. I was thinking maybe like 3.5" - 3.75" for that inside chamber. Would this work better as far as microbubbles? And the inside chambe go up about 18".
Thanks, Tim
Last edited by Tim224DT; 04-16-2007 at 09:09 PM.
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07-14-2005, 07:35 PM
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#24
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photomod
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Montana
Posts: 5,894
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Yeah, that should work just as well for microbubbles; as far as better or worse, I have no positive idea. I would use 2" for the center tho, with too small of area around the perimeter of the inside pipe (4" ID - approx 3.5" OD = .5," .25 around the perimeter), the water will have to flow faster to exit the body, carrying a lot of mbubbles with it.
match the inlet size on the pump for the input, 1" out should be fine.
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07-14-2005, 08:24 PM
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#25
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 9,643
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Ok thanks Vince. Im going to be trying to get ahold of some of the plastic companies around my house here and see if i can get an acrylic tube for the chamber. Would the 2" inside chamber be enough to make the skimmer perform well? If not i guess i would go with the design before that one.
Tim
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07-14-2005, 11:26 PM
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#26
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photomod
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Montana
Posts: 5,894
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I really am not sure, but it should work fine. If your going with acrylic, you can probably get 2 1/2 for the inner tube, also maybe you can go bigger than 4" for the body. It really matters what sizes you feel like doing and what sounds good.
The bigger the reaction chamber (where the bubbles and air mix) the more efficient it will skim.
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07-20-2005, 04:14 PM
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#27
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Reefless Reefer
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 20,559
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why do you want to use an acrylic body? i have found that i do not need to look inside the skimmer for any reason. as long as you watch the skimmate produced you will be fine.
2" internal baffle is a good size. you want the water flowing through the skimmer to get slower as it gets near the outlet tube. a 2" tube gives a good ratio for this.
if you use a commercial venturi place it after the pump. they like the added back pressure, as for a DIY venturi, listen to the designer.
G~
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My Build Thread
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07-20-2005, 04:19 PM
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#28
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 9,643
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I would want to use acrlic for looks thats all. Im might go with this design when i build it. Lets say my drain line is 1" what size should the pipe around the drain line be? Should the neck of the skimmer be longer than 2". Also would it work better if i made the neck 1.5" vs. 2"?
Thanks, Tim
Last edited by Tim224DT; 04-16-2007 at 09:10 PM.
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07-26-2005, 08:19 AM
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#29
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Plankton
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: So. cali
Posts: 46
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if it's not too late you can switch from 4" and 2" tube to 6" or even 8" with a 4" neck and add a recirculating needlewheel pump like an Oceanrunner, you will be amazed at the performance and never have to build another skimmer.
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07-26-2005, 08:24 AM
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#30
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 9,643
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No its not to late. I wont be starting on this project until we get the remodeling done in our house. So about 4 more weeks or so.
Thanks for your input i will look into that design be oceanrunner.
Tim
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