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12-07-2003, 09:13 PM
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#1
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Plankton
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: rochester, mn
Posts: 28
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Acrylic Sump ?
I am building a sump and I am just wondering if there is any way of cleaning of glue slop after it is dried. I used weld-on 3 and it is so runny.
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__________________
Jim
75 gal reef
60lbs lr
6 chromis
1 awsome yellow tang
1 perc clown
1 umbrella leather yellow
1 toadstoo
1 candy cane coral
1 green hammer
1 branched alveapora
1 green mandrin
1 tiger goby
25 cleaning crew
coral life pc unit
20 gallon sump soon to be 35
3 power heads
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12-07-2003, 10:26 PM
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#2
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Reefless Reefer
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 20,528
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as far as i know, no.
the weld on actually softens the acrylic. you may be able to buff it out, but i think it would take a lot of work.
G~
__________________
Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
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12-08-2003, 11:16 PM
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#3
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Lakewood, WA
Posts: 418
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I would look at it like this, hey its just a sump and my first acrylic project! Just chalk it up as a learning experience, and next time be more careful with the application of the glue. If you came up with any bad seams just beef them up with some triangle stock and glue them in with weldon 16.
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Tom
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12-08-2003, 11:41 PM
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#4
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Plankton
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: rochester, mn
Posts: 28
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Thanks for the advice. I figured out why I was so sloppy with the glue. I had to big of gaps between the to pieces. I used smaller pins for spacers and used alot less glue therefor alot less mess. Thanks for the help guys
__________________
Jim
75 gal reef
60lbs lr
6 chromis
1 awsome yellow tang
1 perc clown
1 umbrella leather yellow
1 toadstoo
1 candy cane coral
1 green hammer
1 branched alveapora
1 green mandrin
1 tiger goby
25 cleaning crew
coral life pc unit
20 gallon sump soon to be 35
3 power heads
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12-09-2003, 01:11 AM
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#5
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Plankton
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Tucson,AZ.
Posts: 18
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If you do again, have the shop cut to size. The weld-on should be applied with syringe and let capilary action work for you, perfect seams are clear.
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12-16-2003, 09:38 PM
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#6
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: tucker
Posts: 162
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try flaming the runs. practice on a scrap piece with some dryed weldon on it , it won't remove it but it will clear it up quite a bit
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12-19-2003, 10:38 PM
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#7
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Big Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: salem
Posts: 578
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When you built the sump, is there any set formula as far as bracing the tank, like across the middle in a glass tank? Is your sump 1/4" acrylic?
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12-19-2003, 11:18 PM
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#8
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Plankton
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: rochester, mn
Posts: 28
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I didnt use a formula I just kinda guessed and made sure they didnt interfer with any piping. I have 4" brace from front to back on both ends and a 5" brace in the middle front to back. I will try to draw a picture and post it.
__________________
Jim
75 gal reef
60lbs lr
6 chromis
1 awsome yellow tang
1 perc clown
1 umbrella leather yellow
1 toadstoo
1 candy cane coral
1 green hammer
1 branched alveapora
1 green mandrin
1 tiger goby
25 cleaning crew
coral life pc unit
20 gallon sump soon to be 35
3 power heads
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12-19-2003, 11:34 PM
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#9
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Plankton
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: rochester, mn
Posts: 28
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Here is a design of the sump I used. IF you need more detail let me know.
__________________
Jim
75 gal reef
60lbs lr
6 chromis
1 awsome yellow tang
1 perc clown
1 umbrella leather yellow
1 toadstoo
1 candy cane coral
1 green hammer
1 branched alveapora
1 green mandrin
1 tiger goby
25 cleaning crew
coral life pc unit
20 gallon sump soon to be 35
3 power heads
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12-20-2003, 12:14 AM
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#10
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Big Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: salem
Posts: 578
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thanks. 1/4" acrylic? What were the dimensions of the finished project?
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12-20-2003, 09:34 PM
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#11
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Plankton
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: rochester, mn
Posts: 28
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yes it is all 1/4' acrylic and I think the dimensions are 29x18x18 it is all I could fit in my stand otherwise I would have made it bigger.
__________________
Jim
75 gal reef
60lbs lr
6 chromis
1 awsome yellow tang
1 perc clown
1 umbrella leather yellow
1 toadstoo
1 candy cane coral
1 green hammer
1 branched alveapora
1 green mandrin
1 tiger goby
25 cleaning crew
coral life pc unit
20 gallon sump soon to be 35
3 power heads
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12-31-2003, 05:50 AM
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#12
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Pretty In Pink
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: portland or
Posts: 3,260
Reviews: 6
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nealplumbing
I would suggest using weldon #4 next time. It's a little thicker that #3 and dries if I remember right, a little faster. 
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12-31-2003, 02:39 PM
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#13
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 72
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Quote:
Originally posted by wanareef
I would suggest using weldon #4 next time. It's a little thicker that #3 and dries if I remember right, a little faster.
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#4 isn't any thicker, just slower, it's got more TCE in it which slows the reaction down and makes it flow a little nicer. Hence will dry slower as well giving more working time for the solvent to react with the acrylic. #5 is even slower as IPS adds acetic acid which does the same thing.
James
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12-31-2003, 06:21 PM
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#14
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Plankton
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: rochester, mn
Posts: 28
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That is true with #4 but I have gotten alot better joints with the 4 than 3. I also tried to order #5 but they told me that they are not making it anymore. If anyone else has heard that let me know. Thanks Jim
__________________
Jim
75 gal reef
60lbs lr
6 chromis
1 awsome yellow tang
1 perc clown
1 umbrella leather yellow
1 toadstoo
1 candy cane coral
1 green hammer
1 branched alveapora
1 green mandrin
1 tiger goby
25 cleaning crew
coral life pc unit
20 gallon sump soon to be 35
3 power heads
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12-31-2003, 06:32 PM
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#15
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 72
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Instead of #5, you can buy MCBond from Polysciences ( www.polysciences.com), they are roughly equivelent or make your own by adding 5% or so acetic acid (not vinegar) to #3 or 4.
Your experiences are not at all uncommon, many have an easier time with the slower solvents as they will also dissolve more acrylic, slower solvent -> longer reaction -> more plastic dissolved. This works up to a point, if you use too much acid, the joint will get a "grainy" look to it which is not attractive though long term strength is very debateable.
James
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