20L sump help?

Suomi411 · 03-17-2007, 03:14 PM

I've decided to upgrade from my 55g to a 90g in a month or so and with the decision, I am going to try my hand at creating a sump. I am far from gifted at building anything, so I'm a little worried right now. In any case, I have a 20L (30X12X12) that I want to use as the sump. My main question right now is, how wide should the baffles be cut? I was messing around with cardboard cut to different widths and figured 11 7/8" might be good, leaving only a little space between the edges. I'm just worried that after getting the glass cut it will be too big or too small...so if anyone has used a 20L, could you give me an idea of how wide the baffles were or just let me know if I am approximating correctly?

Geoff · 03-20-2007, 01:30 PM

where were you going to get the baffles cut? you can take them the cardboard templates. they can use these to make the baffles. that way you can be sure they will fit.

G~

jerseyguy1996 · 03-21-2007, 10:04 AM

Oh man....I just did all of this a month ago and I can't remember the exact dimensions. I will try to dig them up. I used acrylic baffles with a pressure seal so that they can be removed and repositioned. I will find the link for you that shows how to make them. It works really well although the last baffle that actually has to hold the weight of the water needs some support to hold it in place. I will post some pics to show how I did it along with some dimensions.

jerseyguy1996 · 03-21-2007, 10:17 AM

Here is an illustrated picture of how mine is set up, although I have made one change since this picture was taken. I installed a few more baffles with an over/under design to act as a bubble trap just before the return section.

trea · 03-21-2007, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerseyguy1996

Here is an illustrated picture of how mine is set up, although I have made one change since this picture was taken. I installed a few more baffles with an over/under design to act as a bubble trap just before the return section.

Good job with pressure locks. I was too lazy to try it once I had my glass cut.

Here is the link Suomi411 if you want to try what Jerseyguy did
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume...es/baffles.htm

I also recently made a sump using a 20H gallon (24*12*16). I had my baffles cut 8" tall * 11 3/4" wide. That left me a 1/4" inside width of the tank. That means I had 1/8" to of space on both sides of the baffle. I did a pretty good job and I had mad help from "TheReeftank". It was like someone sat in here in watched me do it. I made mine baffles 8" tall because the manufacturer for skimmer recommends that the needle wheel pump operate with no more than 3"-4" below the water line. Since the the pump is 3" tall, I just made the baffle 8" tall. If your getting glass cut baffles, make sure that use Aquarium safe silicone. I used silicone by "All Glass Aquarium". Use a mask and open window or better yet do it outside and use a mask. Smell like vinegar something terrible. Will take you high into the sky. My first three baffles are spaced O-U-O (over under over). They are 2" apart. The middle is raised 2" high. I don't know how you want to set yours up. Mine is as follows. Drain/Skimmer section, three baffles, refugium, and return section. The sump is for my 44gallon tank. My sump holds 12 gallons of water. I have my return line in the tank positioned in such way that if the power goes out, only 7.5 gallons will drain back to the sump. Once my return line tastes air the water stops draining. That means my sump now has 19.5 gallons of water in it and now flood. I need that piece of mind. Here is are some pics of mine

Top view

Two side views

jerseyguy1996 · 03-21-2007, 12:01 PM

Nice clean design trea. Kinda makes you wonder why people spend $100's of dollars on a fancy acrylic sump when a cheap AGA aquarium (or heck, a $20 rubbermaid container) works so well. I too have my sump set so that if the power goes out there is no overflow. Actually it kind of worked by accident. I just eyeballed the spot to drill my hole in my return line for a syphon break and as luck would have it it is in the perfect spot. When the pump is running the water coming out of the syphon break ripples the surface but doesn't break the surface, and as soon as the power goes out you immediately hear it sucking air through that hole. I would estimate that no more than a gallon of water makes it to the sump when the power goes out.

Suomi411 · 03-21-2007, 12:30 PM

Thanks for all the help...this is just the info I needed! One last question, how do I determine how high to make the baffles?

trea · 03-21-2007, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerseyguy1996

Nice clean design trea. Kinda makes you wonder why people spend $100's of dollars on a fancy acrylic sump when a cheap AGA aquarium (or heck, a $20 rubbermaid container) works so well. I too have my sump set so that if the power goes out there is no overflow. Actually it kind of worked by accident. I just eyeballed the spot to drill my hole in my return line for a syphon break and as luck would have it it is in the perfect spot. When the pump is running the water coming out of the syphon break ripples the surface but doesn't break the surface, and as soon as the power goes out you immediately hear it sucking air through that hole. I would estimate that no more than a gallon of water makes it to the sump when the power goes out.

Thanks, man. I wanted to just what you did, but I had to use some 3/4" vinyl tubling with Utube return nozzle. If I could get the utube to sit sort of flush against the glass, I would be able to drill that hole. As it stands now I only get about 2.5 gallons draining back if the power goes out

trea · 03-21-2007, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Suomi411

Thanks for all the help...this is just the info I needed! One last question, how do I determine how high to make the baffles?

I think that your skimmer will be guide to determine that. What kind of skimmer are you using? Will it be insump or hanging on the back? The reason I ask you is because I use a coralife skimmer that is can be HOB (Hang on Back) or insump. If I hang off the display tank then it pump needs to be no more that 3"-4" below the water line, which is pretty much the same principle I use for the insump style. I know that the pump is three inches tall so I knew I could get away with 3"-4" of water over it, so that is why I made my baffles 8" tall. The directions to your sump should tell you deep your pump can sit in the sump. Just measure from the top of the pump and add that to how low it needs to sit below the water line and you should be able to determine how high your baffles need to be.

Suomi411 · 03-21-2007, 01:37 PM

I haven't decided on a skimmer yet. I was looking at an Octo NW 200 and have asked for some suggestions in the BB forum. Once I decide on a skimmer I'll be able to determine baffle height. If my tank comes with an overflow, will that prevent any flooding or will I need to design my sump to accomodate more water? If so, how do you make the determination?

trea · 03-21-2007, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Suomi411

I haven't decided on a skimmer yet. I was looking at an Octo NW 200 and have asked for some suggestions in the BB forum. Once I decide on a skimmer I'll be able to determine baffle height. If my tank comes with an overflow, will that prevent any flooding or will I need to design my sump to accomodate more water? If so, how do you make the determination?

You need to set the top part of the overflow box where the water in your main tank comes in to a desired height. The safe height can be determined by having your sump filled to the height of the baffles in your skimmer section for the entire sump. Cut the return pump off to the main tank and watch how much water drains back to the sump from the return and drain line. This original water line in the sump before you cut the power is the max water you should have in your sump to prevent the risk of flood. Melev's site on sump overflow may provide a better explanation

http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

jerseyguy1996 · 03-21-2007, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Suomi411

I haven't decided on a skimmer yet. I was looking at an Octo NW 200 and have asked for some suggestions in the BB forum. Once I decide on a skimmer I'll be able to determine baffle height. If my tank comes with an overflow, will that prevent any flooding or will I need to design my sump to accomodate more water? If so, how do you make the determination?

Everything Trae said sounds great accept that as soon as you pull the power the water is going to start syphoning backwards through the pump and you will have a flood on your hands. Make sure that you have a hole drilled into your return line just under the water line of the display tank to break the syphon once the water level in the main tank drops.

Suomi411 · 03-21-2007, 08:23 PM

So a tank with an overflow already built in does nothing to prevent against a flood?

Geoff · 03-21-2007, 10:11 PM

not necessarily. there is always a chance of flooding. as long as your return pump is rated less than your overflow you will be as fine as can be. it is not totally unheard of to have a snail get stuck in an overflow and flood the tank.

G~

Suomi411 · 04-01-2007, 10:28 PM

I ended up trying the pressure lock baffles, but had one question; since I am setting up a BB and skipping the refugium, can I just keep a 3 baffle bubble trap system with my skimmer on one side and return on the other? In other words, I want to skip separting a return section. Could this cause any potential problems?